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Kinetic 1/48 SU-33

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This is my first build thread, but not my first model kit.  I suppose I should upload some photos of finished models in the Display Case.


Been modeling since I was a kid, got back into it as an adult then parenting took over (that and the home we lived in had no model space except the garage in the Texas heat which was a no-go!).  Got back into modeling again in 2013 after we moved to a new home and been building 1-2 a year since.


So this is my build thread of the Kenetic Su-33.


Big thanks to BaconRayGun for his build thread here.


Lots of good info in his thread and some things to watch out for!


First, as he mentions, dry-fit everything, and I mean everything more than once.  Their are some questionable engineering decision in this kit and you have to wonder what they were thinking.  For example, when you assemble the main gear wheel wells they basically butt-weld the ends!  No locating pins, no positive locking mechanism, nothing.  Just butt them together and apply glue.  You'll see below it's much easier to just insert them into the lower fuselage section rather than try to assemble them as stand alone items.  I would compare this kit to the Academy F-4...it can be made in to a nice model, has some good details, but you have to ask what the hell were they thinking sometimes.  The ejection seat is another area..just kind of wonky how it all goes together. Anyway, on with the kit.


A few starting photos and some progress.  This will be a slow thread as I have a tendency to work stop/start a lot and will make a bunch of progress, then nothing for a week or two.


The BOX!!!!





Extra parts...




Disaster right away.  One of the resin engine parts was chipped...I was thinking I'm going to have to fix this with some sheet plastic or something then I looked under the foam in the box and the chipped piece was in there! 



A little superglue and fixed




I decided to start with the engines and nozzles and build both the kit and aftermarket to compare them.  The kit nozzles have some good details, but are not 100% correct on the insides. Also, the burner flame holders all all photo etch and I have no idea how someone could put these together...just a bunch of tiny brass fingers are supposed to glue together..yeah, right.






I just realized I have no photos of the nozzles I've already painted up and I started on the cockpit (I'll post the nozzles later).


Here again is an odd way to assemble the cockpit.  The floor/front just butts up against the back section/wall area.  Their is a small lip it fits into, but it's just not a very positive set up. Then it attaches to the lower section of the fuselage parts...huh???  Never seen this before.  Usually it goes into the sidewall or UP into the cockpit combing area so you know you have it fit correctly.  I decided to glue it up with white glue first and check the fit and the back part really did not fit all that well.  So I decided to superglue the back wall to the upper section, glue in the sidewalls and then primer (Mr Surfacer 1500 black + Mr Leveling Thinner) and paint with MRP (mix of colors to match the Eduard pre-colored cockpit parts.




You can see the main gear wells installed here and primer'd white for the final red finish.









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Here are the engine parts. I primed them first with MRP Grey primer, then Alclad gloss black, the a combination of Alclad Jet Exhaust, burn iron, Aluminum and Tamiya clear blue


RESIN first;









Kit Parts;







And here is the main wheel wells I mentioned earlier.  Each sidewall is shown in the instructions to just butt-weld together..much easier to just install and glue in place.  White MRP Primer, Tamiya Red and Alclad Aqua-Gloss as of now.





that's as far as I've gotten so far.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some more progress...


The windscreen is a little large and causes the canopy to ride the back hump.  I usually install the windscreen and then glue down the canopy with white glue and paint the kits so everything is even and matches on the plane.







I could sand down the windscreen so it does not overhang into the canopy but that might remove too much detail.  I'll figure something out....


When you attach the front intake of the engines, they do not align and match up with the the lower fuselage.




A quick sanding of the flat surfaces that attach at the lower fuselage give a much better fit and no need to sand down the round misfit in the above photo and have to rescibe all that detail.  Just be sure and only sand the back area.  I sanded down the entire length and caused a slight misfit. But still better than it was.




I glued attached the front and rear fuselage portions together and left the wing and canard area free of glue for the time being.  It was too difficult to try and hold it all together and glue/rubberband/clamp....also, I hadn't decided if I was going to fold the wings or not and you have to glue in some inserts between the wing halves if you plan to do the wings folded (I later decided to fold the main wings).



while that was drying, I moved onto some other area's.  The the instructions show the elevator parts go together like this....



Obviously wrong...swap the parts from what the instructions show and the look like this.




I did not want to display the air brake open, but when closed it does not exactly fit correctly into the space in the fuselage...



So I added some layers of sheet styrene...and a few layers of bare metal foil to get just the right thinkness to lift up the air brake so it fit more flush with the top




much better



I didn't get a good photo, but the back rudder portion does not fit well (again, just no positive connection points) onto the tail portion.  The round front of the rudder butts up against the flat cut out in the tail fin...not good


So I sanded things a bit, then put a small piece of styrene on the upper portion of the rudder to get a better joint to glue




I did sand down the styrene piece to be round at the front, but it give a much better fit and look of the rear tail/rudder area




I've got the wings assembled and will get those pics uploaded....there are a few areas there you'll want to sand away to get the wing halves to fit better but nothing major.


Overall its going OK...not the best kit in the world, but it will build up into a nice model once painted (the real reason I bought it in the first place!! 🙂  )



Edited by Sean F
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  • 2 weeks later...

A little more progress.  Got the HUD built up and installed.  Came out OK but it will be mostly hidden under the windscreen anyway.




I managed to get the windscreen on the front and canopy to fit better with a little sanding of the frame between them and a little off the back of the canopy.



Then the IR seeker did not really fit to well so I sanded that a bit to get a better fit up front as well



Did you know you can use Perfect Putty on clear plastic and not damage the clear parts?  Just let it dry for a minute then use a q-tip in water to wipe of the excess.  I actually just figured this out.  I knew it was water based so I figured "why not"...sometimes things work out!





I put on the windscreen and then mounted all the loose parts for primer.  I put black Mr Surfacer 1500 50/50 with Mr Leveling Thinner on the bottom and then just shot Tamiya Grey Primer out of the can on the top.  I typically use the black Mr Surfacer for most primers applications, but I've did a model in the past utilizing the black but the topcoat was blue and it just killed the blue (made it way to dark as you'd expect). I did not want to kill the top colors on this one so I primered in grey on top.  I was not to concerned about over spray, just wanted a good primer coat.  I'll go back later and sand it smooth.






Please fell free to comment, good, bad or indifferent.  I'm not building a show winner here (would required just way to much effort for this kit) and you will not hurt my feelings! 🙂




Edited by Sean F
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Looks like you have your work cut out for you.  I have this kit in my stash so I will be following along.  Thanks for pointing out the errors and fixes you have found so far.


Happy New Years!



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Posted (edited)

Make sure and read the link I put above as well.


Here is the wing area I mentioned earlier.  You'll need to grind/sand down those highlighted tabs where the flaps slide in to get the rear of the wing to fit together without a huge gap at the back.




Here is everything primed and the grey coat put on the underside and top areas.  I laid it all out to get everything lined up for the blue colors. 




Here are the engines just slid into place.  Resin on the right, kit on the left



Resin Version;






Kit Engines;





Honestly, if you can get the photo etched flame holders together on the kit version, they do build up and look pretty good with some shading/weathering.  I've actually note done any shading yet but will get to that.


I actually did a freehand for the color coats.  I know, not really correct but I did not want all the extra work of masking.  This is a few days after paint and I went over everything with some wet 1000 grit to get the bumps down.  I've go to go back over all the colors again to clean up some overspray and a few areas the sanding took down to the primer.  Also had to clean up some of the panel lines.



I may go back and mask of the top colors to get the hard edge they are supposed to have.  Not really looking forward to all that extra work though so I may skip it....:)


Edited by Sean F
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Thats great work, yes I know masking is a pain I used to be an avid free hand airbrushed but the more I used masks the easier it became. It is a differt set of skills to use masks correctly just because they give you the pattern it doesn't make for a great airbrushing skills unless you develop those skills. I prefer masking putty and the challange of mimicing the pattern. Even with masking putty you need to know how much paint your laying down,  what angle to go in at and how to correct mistakes. 


I like masks for one particular reason if you look closley at any real aircraft the decimation lines between colors at 1:1 scale are fairly sharp with a slight feather now scale that down to 1:48th or 1:72nd you should almost be at a crisp edge. Over decimation of lines and my pet peeve over weathering on post and pre shadding can ruin an expensive model and dozens of hours.


I have a few models on my profile if your interested well almost all I have used masking film or putty even good old silly putty makes a great mask and it very inexpensive. 


Thanks for the tip on the Perfect Putty I didnt know that iether I an going to give that a try. I recently discovered 3M glazing putty great for those times when you over scribe and need to correct a scratch. Its a bit dark like a deep maroon red but lighten to a pink with a primer and finish coat works out well.



Edited by Night Owl Models
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