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MQ-8B Fire Scout 1/48 Brengun


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Good evening, yet another side build I can't seem to focus on one project. I saw this kit while searching HH-60s thought it would be an interesting build.

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Ahhh smell of pure resin...kit is solid fuselage huge chunk of resin the smaller bits are very fragile.

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Nice surface detail

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I did an online search for further detail sets there is nothing to be had. I printed several photo's and noticing some small details missing.

 

One is the rivet pattern on the tail boom is missing all together. I can remedy that with some rival decals I think.

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I am talking myself into building the rotor restraints and perhaps an aft ship deck with Reedoak figures in a maintenance configuration. Alot to think about and research.

 

I don't want to rebuild the whole heli pad just a portion it's hard to know where to begin and end. Also what ships have the MQ-8 on board. I know they were used extensively in the Gulf for recon.

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Tonight I cut all the parts from the carrier sprune and sanded everything down then added the PE detail set. The air scoops were a bit of a challenge as they have a slight backing holding them with tweezers and shaving carefully with an Exacto knife took care of the issue.

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Underside 

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I noticed from my reference material that the rivet pattern was missing from the tail boom using Archer-rivet decals and several layers of Microsol to lay down the edges. This is a tight model I didn't use any putty to fill gaps only a few light applications of primer with a paintbrush around the parts filled any openings. 

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A few hours later and on to painting. I decided to go a bit lighter on the pre-shading opting for a dark grey instead of black so I can keep the top coat thin when I tome it down.

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The rivet carrier film disappeared and it gives some great detail to the model.

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I posted to the "help me out" forum and got some great tips on how to make the clear tinted lens for the EO?IR Range finder optics

First I drilled out the interior

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After the holed were drilled I painted them bright silver inside and a black base on the larger dish. A tip led me to using my acrylic resin I just mixed a small amount of both added a bit of dye and poured it carefully into the part.

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You can see the optic eye through the acrylic ill let it set for 24 hrs to harden then repaint it to clean it up.

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Adding FOD covers and rotor tie downs.

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Covers we're made from vinyl tape painted and blue tac.

 

Photo of FOD covers

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I thought making a few scratch built accessories would be a good idea.

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Transport handling bar.

 

Onto the diorama base I decided to do a custom portion of a (LCS-5) Freedom-class littoral combat ship  deck help pad.

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Of course after studying many photos and drawings I came up with a plan. I had most of the materials in my stash so I started with measurements in 1/48th and laying out the tie down grid.

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Alot of drilling and cutting. The tie down crosses needed to be counter sunk and all super glued into place.

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Adding more deck details.

 

My plan moving forward is to scratch build the safety nets around the deck and add the ship sides down to the water line. I can't find anything online in 1/48th for deck accessories but that's ok.

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Ill have to regeress a bit I stubled upon these flight deck safety nets, i was just about to try and make them when I kept searching and searching then the modeling gods smiled upon me and blessed me with Shapeways.

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Excited to order these the maker Eric from http://www.model.navy/ very accomodating and would pretty much make anything I need. Its good to have a contact in the 3D printing world. Shapeways is a good resource too for those hard to find items.

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Got allot accomplished on the LCS-Ships helo pad scratch build. Found two websites with 3D walk around which was a great resource and of course tons of photos.

 

 

So I basically cut the hull off at the mid flight deck where most landing operations take place.

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Pre shaded and painted

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I used this photo as my painting reference paying particular attention to all the shades and undertones happening.

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Paints used for the deck

Vallejo model air

71.276 USAF light grey

71.050 Light grey

71.121 Light gull grey

71.280 Camouflage grey

70.826 Ger. cam. med brown

Tamiya XF-85 rubber black

 

Firs coat and first shading

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My apologise this is after several other shades...moving onto the defined areas.

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Almost done just need to mask out the left side for the same treatment then its onto adding the deck white landing markings.

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Thanks for the comments😃 Tonite I started on the deck markings it took some planning to get is measured out and the masks cut. I am happy with the results just a few more lines to paint while I await the deck safety nets to arrive.

 

Still need to start the helicopter tie down chains and figures.

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To say that's impressive is selling it short. Admiring your work on the MQ-8, and then after a brief absence... bang!😲

Great work, nah... fabulous

 

I'll subscribe to that!

 

Cheers

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Tonight I deployed the Firescout on board still deck tiedown chains, figures and safety nets to add.

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While I wait for parts to arrive I am starting a trial on doing a resin pour to mimic the turning ocean water behind the ship. Of course watching many YouTube videos on how to.

 

The idea is the ship will sit on the resin at the water line.

 

Here are the supplies needed.

Resin and hardner

Alcohol ink

Gloves

Stir sticks

Measuring cups

Heat gun

Wax paper

Rubbing alcohol

 

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Stared with mixing the resin and hardner in equal parts pre heating the products in hot water to remove air bubbles when mixing. Then adding alcohol dye, I decided to pour over plexiglass. 

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Dark blue was poured first then deep green/blue mix over top then I hit it with a heat gun to blend colours.

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This is the first time I have ever done this what I found is the resin runs everywhere building sides would help.

 

Next was dragging lines of white over top and random drops them pushing the white ink with the heat gun. It gives that churning sea foam effect.

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Ill let it dry and cure overnight then pour another coat of colour and waves that will give it depth. Ill move onto the finish pour for the diorama after I have worked out all the potential problems.

 

Get it looking something like this.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Received the deck saftey nets from Shapeways 

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I did a dry fit and looked back at some reference photos. I knew they would need some modification it was just coming up with a plan.

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I started with the bar that the nets swing from the stowed to deployed position. Then added the mounting brackets made from stock and the cable ties.

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It took a few days but I am very happy with the 3D printed product. I layed on two coats and they are ready for some weathering ill get too later.

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I also ordered 1/48 Reedoak Navy deck crew figures that arrived today the detail is the best In

I have ever seen. The rubber composit is very different texture.

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Also have done a few other trials on the ships wake havent quite decided on the size of the diorama base this is the latest resin pour dried and cured. I mak try using AK interactives waves to give it some motion. It needs to be wider and running up off the sides so alot of work to be done.

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Thanks ill have to admit I had this build in my head for a year and started planning and researching about six months ago.

 

I do have a major idea/ build that will test all my skill and wallet. After this project is done I am going to get started. All I can say now is I have only seen one other modeler attempt this type of build. It will be months of work that ill have to do trials on the final stage because it will iether be a huge success or a colossal failure in a matter of a few hours.

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Last night I did a dry run on the placement of the figures.

 

I did a scrounge through my small parts box and actually found a laptop for the crew I thinking I would have to scratch build it. I did have to make the APU cart and add the electrical cables.

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Ill paint the crew in the same colors for the uniforms.

 

So I  have to say feeling a bit intimidated at this point I haven't done much figure painting in the past so the faces and hands at 1/48th aaarrrg. This is my last attempt at 1/35th and figures can iether make or break a diorama maybe I can put their goggles down or something.

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