Gator's Grip Glue for PE to PE?

[Curt B]

Hi All,

 

Im just looking for some opinions from folks who may have some experience with the subject topic.  I have been using Gator's Grip glue for some time now, almost exclusively for gluing clear parts to airplane models.  For this work, this glue is fabulous.  I haven't really experimented with gluing photo etch parts to other photo etch parts with this glue, but I have been looking for an alternative to superglue, which often has many challenges and sometimes doesn't even work as advertised.  I've tried my hand at soldering, and while I'm not good at it, I will still try to use solder for certain larger parts with greater bonding surfaces.  But I'm interested in people's experience over a longer period in using Gator's Grip to glue PE to PE parts.  I'd like to start using it for the purpose, but would like to hear people's thoughts on how well this glue holds PE to PE over the longer term, and whether the glue tends to resist shearing or bending forces after having dried out for that time period.I'm hoping the answer is that 1-2 years and longer down the road that the glue retains any initial resistance to shearing force, and that you've found it to be a suitable and preferable alternative to superglue.  I love the simple cleanup with water, which alone makes it a far better option than superglue, but if long term experience shows that it tends not to hold PE to PE over time, I'd like to know before using it for that purpose.  Thanks for any insight.

[MusicOn]

I've used Gator Grip for awhile too - it's my go to for PE: PE to plastic or PE to PE. Disclaimer: most PE I work with is relatively small, maybe 1-2cm at most. So I can't comment on any huge PE assemblies. But for your average detail sets it works great.  What I usually do is start with the Gator Grip, get the part exactly how I want it, clean up any excess with a toothpick, and then strengthen the join with extra thin .CA using my "looper" spot applicator. Never had a problem with this method.