Jump to content

some white paint help please!!!


Recommended Posts

I'm tired of fighting white paint when it comes to aircraft landing gear and Russian missiles!! nothing seems to work, I've tried just about ever brand, even tried priming, cleaning the part etc, and still have horrible coverage...so I would appreciate a lillte help please! using an AWATA BCS dual action airbrush....thanks so much!!

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, KEB said:

even tried priming

 

Try priming your landing gear with MRP fine white surface primer first straight out of the bottle.  Mr. Surfacer 1500 white primer thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner also works great.

Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, KEB said:

I've tried just about ever brand, even tried priming, cleaning the part etc, and still have horrible coverage...so I would appreciate a lillte help please! using an AWATA BCS dual action airbrush

Hmm, that has me wondering if the issue is less about paint and more about technique.

Not having observed the act of painting I have no data from which to draw conclusions.

But I still wonder.

Some things to examine:

Might the paint be thinned a bit too much? Too little?

Spraying too heavy a coat & from too close (because small part invites closeness)?

Perhaps widen the spray pattern and increase distance a bit and make multiple thin layer passes.

Sure, that might maybe sacrifice more paint as overspray than what goes on the strut. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

What primer do you use?   Tamiya White surface primer in the rattle can might be all you need to paint in white.  Regular white paint tends to pool in the crevices. 

 

Rattle cans blast paint out and will drown out details if you're not careful.  I follow the steps below to control it.

1.  Mount the part on a stick or leave it on the sprue.  This way you can angle the part to see all the sides.  It also prevents pooling.

2.  Shake well and spray outside 

3.  Mist it over the part from 6-7 inches away, keeping it to a single, quick, pass per angle.  Angle the part and not the can.  Press down on the trigger fully.

4.  Don't  try to get a good coat in one pass by going slow or the paint will pool.

5.  Don't spray directly onto the part but spray before and past it to keep the coat light.  First coat will probably be imperceptible and may even just show up like tiny dots on the surface -- this is ok. Wait 15 minutes before the next coat.   Use that time shaking the can : )    

6.  It takes 4 or 5 coats -- building up very thin coats is key.  

 

It can take you an hour or so to finish but you'll get a beautiful even thin coat in the end and there won't be any heartaches or headaches from frustrating, pooling, white paint. Tamiya white primer also looks scale and not super-white or bleached-white.  By the way,  I've tried decanting and spraying it through an airbrush but the bond seems weaker and can chip easier - not exactly sure why.    I've also tried Tamiya's bottle version but it's a different shade (?)  it's still easier to use the rattle can.  

 

Here's Tamiya white primer in use:

img%5D

 

img%5D

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Lower your air pressure on your airbrush. Use a quality paint. For white I have found that Mr.Color (Gunze Sanyo) works the best for me followed by AK RC. MRP works fine as well. But the one thing you will need more than anything is patience! Its going to take more than one or two coats. I personally like the lacquers like Gunze and MRP and AK RC. Even Tamiya works well if you can get it thinned properly. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
41 minutes ago, Darren Roberts said:

Maybe someone can help me with the Tamiya White Primer in a rattle can. I've tried using it, and found it to not cover very well. Many seem to like it, so what am I doing wrong? 

 

You need 4 to 5 thin coats, 15 min apart.    Doing it this way results in no pooling in corners and even coverage in flat areas.   First and second coats will not cover well but the succeeding ones work like magic.    The 15 min drying time intervals are important.

Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, crackerjazz said:

 

You need 4 to 5 thin coats, 15 min apart.    Doing it this way results in no pooling in corners and even coverage in flat areas.   First and second coats will not cover well but the succeeding ones work like magic.    The 15 min drying time intervals are important.

Got it. I'm too impatient for that. 😄 I can lay down Alclad in one coat, maybe two coats, with a ten minute drying time.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/18/2021 at 6:21 AM, crackerjazz said:

What primer do you use?   Tamiya White surface primer in the rattle can might be all you need to paint in white.  Regular white paint tends to pool in the crevices. 

 

Rattle cans blast paint out and will drown out details if you're not careful.  I follow the steps below to control it.

1.  Mount the part on a stick or leave it on the sprue.  This way you can angle the part to see all the sides.  It also prevents pooling.

2.  Shake well and spray outside 

3.  Mist it over the part from 6-7 inches away, keeping it to a single, quick, pass per angle.  Angle the part and not the can.  Press down on the trigger fully.

4.  Don't  try to get a good coat in one pass by going slow or the paint will pool.

5.  Don't spray directly onto the part but spray before and past it to keep the coat light.  First coat will probably be imperceptible and may even just show up like tiny dots on the surface -- this is ok. Wait 15 minutes before the next coat.   Use that time shaking the can : )    

6.  It takes 4 or 5 coats -- building up very thin coats is key.  

 

It can take you an hour or so to finish but you'll get a beautiful even thin coat in the end and there won't be any heartaches or headaches from frustrating, pooling, white paint. Tamiya white primer also looks scale and not super-white or bleached-white.  By the way,  I've tried decanting and spraying it through an airbrush but the bond seems weaker and can chip easier - not exactly sure why.    I've also tried Tamiya's bottle version but it's a different shade (?)  it's still easier to use the rattle can.  

 

Here's Tamiya white primer in use:

img%5D

 

img%5D

 

 

 

Also, warm the can in the sun or hot water then shake well prior to spraying. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
On 1/17/2021 at 9:37 PM, fulcrum1 said:

White Tamiya primer in the can or spray the white Badger/Ammo stuff.  

+1, Tamiya or Mr Surfacer 1500 white.

 

On 1/18/2021 at 5:21 AM, crackerjazz said:

What primer do you use?   Tamiya White surface primer in the rattle can might be all you need to paint in white.  Regular white paint tends to pool in the crevices. 

 

Rattle cans blast paint out and will drown out details if you're not careful.  I follow the steps below to control it.

1.  Mount the part on a stick or leave it on the sprue.  This way you can angle the part to see all the sides.  It also prevents pooling.

2.  Shake well and spray outside 

3.  Mist it over the part from 6-7 inches away, keeping it to a single, quick, pass per angle.  Angle the part and not the can.  Press down on the trigger fully.

4.  Don't  try to get a good coat in one pass by going slow or the paint will pool.

5.  Don't spray directly onto the part but spray before and past it to keep the coat light.  First coat will probably be imperceptible and may even just show up like tiny dots on the surface -- this is ok. Wait 15 minutes before the next coat.   Use that time shaking the can : )    

6.  It takes 4 or 5 coats -- building up very thin coats is key.  

 

It can take you an hour or so to finish but you'll get a beautiful even thin coat in the end and there won't be any heartaches or headaches from frustrating, pooling, white paint. Tamiya white primer also looks scale and not super-white or bleached-white.  By the way,  I've tried decanting and spraying it through an airbrush but the bond seems weaker and can chip easier - not exactly sure why.    I've also tried Tamiya's bottle version but it's a different shade (?)  it's still easier to use the rattle can.  

 

 

THIS!  Basically the way I have been spraying white for years.  Discovered Mr Surfacer white and then Tamiya white primer and have used them doing the light coats method. Don't be tempted to spray on heavy. Light coats, built up slowly allows the paint develop a smooth seamless coat. If you want you can finish it off with regular white paint as they often have slightly different tones, like USAF Insignia White (I forget the FS number).

Link to post
Share on other sites

Backing off and misting it on is the biggest tip I can offer.  And give it plenty of time to dry in between mist coats. After my white primer, sometimes I even do the same with flat white and then a couple of coats with gloss white.

 

FWIW, in my early days of painting cars we use to have to paint cars the same way when using the old enamel paints.  First coat was blown on thin and allowed to tack up. Once your finger stuck to the paint and not just wiped it off (yes, we always had a test panel, not the car) it was time to put on a heavier coat.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...