KEB Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 I'm tired of fighting white paint when it comes to aircraft landing gear and Russian missiles!! nothing seems to work, I've tried just about ever brand, even tried priming, cleaning the part etc, and still have horrible coverage...so I would appreciate a lillte help please! using an AWATA BCS dual action airbrush....thanks so much!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Prime with flat white first for coverage, then go gloss or semigloss. Tamiya fine white surface primer right out of the can will work with care. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Roberts Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Alclad White Primer with Microfiller. I use it as my white. It gives a nice, bright semi-gloss finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 4 hours ago, KEB said: even tried priming Try priming your landing gear with MRP fine white surface primer first straight out of the bottle. Mr. Surfacer 1500 white primer thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner also works great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fulcrum1 Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 White Tamiya primer in the can or spray the white Badger/Ammo stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alternative 4 Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I prime with black or dark gray, then spray a few thin coats of gunze acrylic white. The primer helps with coverage and adds depth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
southwestforests Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 12 hours ago, KEB said: I've tried just about ever brand, even tried priming, cleaning the part etc, and still have horrible coverage...so I would appreciate a lillte help please! using an AWATA BCS dual action airbrush Hmm, that has me wondering if the issue is less about paint and more about technique. Not having observed the act of painting I have no data from which to draw conclusions. But I still wonder. Some things to examine: Might the paint be thinned a bit too much? Too little? Spraying too heavy a coat & from too close (because small part invites closeness)? Perhaps widen the spray pattern and increase distance a bit and make multiple thin layer passes. Sure, that might maybe sacrifice more paint as overspray than what goes on the strut. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 What primer do you use? Tamiya White surface primer in the rattle can might be all you need to paint in white. Regular white paint tends to pool in the crevices. Rattle cans blast paint out and will drown out details if you're not careful. I follow the steps below to control it. 1. Mount the part on a stick or leave it on the sprue. This way you can angle the part to see all the sides. It also prevents pooling. 2. Shake well and spray outside 3. Mist it over the part from 6-7 inches away, keeping it to a single, quick, pass per angle. Angle the part and not the can. Press down on the trigger fully. 4. Don't try to get a good coat in one pass by going slow or the paint will pool. 5. Don't spray directly onto the part but spray before and past it to keep the coat light. First coat will probably be imperceptible and may even just show up like tiny dots on the surface -- this is ok. Wait 15 minutes before the next coat. Use that time shaking the can : ) 6. It takes 4 or 5 coats -- building up very thin coats is key. It can take you an hour or so to finish but you'll get a beautiful even thin coat in the end and there won't be any heartaches or headaches from frustrating, pooling, white paint. Tamiya white primer also looks scale and not super-white or bleached-white. By the way, I've tried decanting and spraying it through an airbrush but the bond seems weaker and can chip easier - not exactly sure why. I've also tried Tamiya's bottle version but it's a different shade (?) it's still easier to use the rattle can. Here's Tamiya white primer in use: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boom175 Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Lower your air pressure on your airbrush. Use a quality paint. For white I have found that Mr.Color (Gunze Sanyo) works the best for me followed by AK RC. MRP works fine as well. But the one thing you will need more than anything is patience! Its going to take more than one or two coats. I personally like the lacquers like Gunze and MRP and AK RC. Even Tamiya works well if you can get it thinned properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KEB Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 Hey thanks guys for all the help!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Roberts Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Maybe someone can help me with the Tamiya White Primer in a rattle can. I've tried using it, and found it to not cover very well. Many seem to like it, so what am I doing wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 41 minutes ago, Darren Roberts said: Maybe someone can help me with the Tamiya White Primer in a rattle can. I've tried using it, and found it to not cover very well. Many seem to like it, so what am I doing wrong? You need 4 to 5 thin coats, 15 min apart. Doing it this way results in no pooling in corners and even coverage in flat areas. First and second coats will not cover well but the succeeding ones work like magic. The 15 min drying time intervals are important. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Roberts Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 33 minutes ago, crackerjazz said: You need 4 to 5 thin coats, 15 min apart. Doing it this way results in no pooling in corners and even coverage in flat areas. First and second coats will not cover well but the succeeding ones work like magic. The 15 min drying time intervals are important. Got it. I'm too impatient for that. 😄 I can lay down Alclad in one coat, maybe two coats, with a ten minute drying time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
breadneck Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Anyone tried the Halford brand? I know the brits like that but have no idea if they ship overseas. Maybe it`s better for larger areas? ...anyone? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jpk Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 On 1/18/2021 at 6:21 AM, crackerjazz said: What primer do you use? Tamiya White surface primer in the rattle can might be all you need to paint in white. Regular white paint tends to pool in the crevices. Rattle cans blast paint out and will drown out details if you're not careful. I follow the steps below to control it. 1. Mount the part on a stick or leave it on the sprue. This way you can angle the part to see all the sides. It also prevents pooling. 2. Shake well and spray outside 3. Mist it over the part from 6-7 inches away, keeping it to a single, quick, pass per angle. Angle the part and not the can. Press down on the trigger fully. 4. Don't try to get a good coat in one pass by going slow or the paint will pool. 5. Don't spray directly onto the part but spray before and past it to keep the coat light. First coat will probably be imperceptible and may even just show up like tiny dots on the surface -- this is ok. Wait 15 minutes before the next coat. Use that time shaking the can : ) 6. It takes 4 or 5 coats -- building up very thin coats is key. It can take you an hour or so to finish but you'll get a beautiful even thin coat in the end and there won't be any heartaches or headaches from frustrating, pooling, white paint. Tamiya white primer also looks scale and not super-white or bleached-white. By the way, I've tried decanting and spraying it through an airbrush but the bond seems weaker and can chip easier - not exactly sure why. I've also tried Tamiya's bottle version but it's a different shade (?) it's still easier to use the rattle can. Here's Tamiya white primer in use: Also, warm the can in the sun or hot water then shake well prior to spraying. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 On 1/17/2021 at 9:37 PM, fulcrum1 said: White Tamiya primer in the can or spray the white Badger/Ammo stuff. +1, Tamiya or Mr Surfacer 1500 white. On 1/18/2021 at 5:21 AM, crackerjazz said: What primer do you use? Tamiya White surface primer in the rattle can might be all you need to paint in white. Regular white paint tends to pool in the crevices. Rattle cans blast paint out and will drown out details if you're not careful. I follow the steps below to control it. 1. Mount the part on a stick or leave it on the sprue. This way you can angle the part to see all the sides. It also prevents pooling. 2. Shake well and spray outside 3. Mist it over the part from 6-7 inches away, keeping it to a single, quick, pass per angle. Angle the part and not the can. Press down on the trigger fully. 4. Don't try to get a good coat in one pass by going slow or the paint will pool. 5. Don't spray directly onto the part but spray before and past it to keep the coat light. First coat will probably be imperceptible and may even just show up like tiny dots on the surface -- this is ok. Wait 15 minutes before the next coat. Use that time shaking the can : ) 6. It takes 4 or 5 coats -- building up very thin coats is key. It can take you an hour or so to finish but you'll get a beautiful even thin coat in the end and there won't be any heartaches or headaches from frustrating, pooling, white paint. Tamiya white primer also looks scale and not super-white or bleached-white. By the way, I've tried decanting and spraying it through an airbrush but the bond seems weaker and can chip easier - not exactly sure why. I've also tried Tamiya's bottle version but it's a different shade (?) it's still easier to use the rattle can. THIS! Basically the way I have been spraying white for years. Discovered Mr Surfacer white and then Tamiya white primer and have used them doing the light coats method. Don't be tempted to spray on heavy. Light coats, built up slowly allows the paint develop a smooth seamless coat. If you want you can finish it off with regular white paint as they often have slightly different tones, like USAF Insignia White (I forget the FS number). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scott Smith Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 Backing off and misting it on is the biggest tip I can offer. And give it plenty of time to dry in between mist coats. After my white primer, sometimes I even do the same with flat white and then a couple of coats with gloss white. FWIW, in my early days of painting cars we use to have to paint cars the same way when using the old enamel paints. First coat was blown on thin and allowed to tack up. Once your finger stuck to the paint and not just wiped it off (yes, we always had a test panel, not the car) it was time to put on a heavier coat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MathmanAHS Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 I have had some excellent results recently with Vallejo insignia white. I think the key is low pressure, properly thinned, and thin coats. I am usually good at 2-3 coats. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.