Red Dog Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Nicely Done You succeeded where I failed !! For the first time I also tried carbon decals on the engine shrouds of my Victory 105 But after two tries I removed everything because I had too many liftups and even decal solution couldn't get rid of them. So I decided to paint them after all. I'll be interested to know more about how you got good result with yours if you have time to explain in detail? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, Red Dog said: Nicely Done You succeeded where I failed !! For the first time I also tried carbon decals on the engine shrouds of my Victory 105 But after two tries I removed everything because I had too many liftups and even decal solution couldn't get rid of them. So I decided to paint them after all. I'll be interested to know more about how you got good result with yours if you have time to explain in detail? Hello Red Dog, my brand new "customer experience" with carbon fiber decals for Bandwaggon101: 1 - First apply Mr Hobby Primary GX-2 to feature a glossy surface thinned with 30% MLT 2 - Apply decals with Micro Set & Sol (after approx 30min the decals soften and it can be worked to conform the piece) 3 - Apply 3 or 4 thick coats of Mr Color Primary GX-100 (2 is not enough, 4 is too much). I use to mix with 50% MLT. 4 - If masking is needed for painting some areas, i recommend to use liquid masking instead of masking tape. Hope it can help. Edited March 12, 2021 by FASTEAGLE107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Nice modeling combat gear, Fasteagle107! : ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 Indeed, you're right Cracker! I can’t explain why the wife complains about my sex appeal as i turn 50... 😂 In fact acrylic laquer thinner like MLT is very agressive. Modelling is not good for the lumbs i guess. Stay safe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) UPDATE BABY ! Dealing with armament, chin pod and gear legs. Those are gorgeous. Crisp details and very close to the reality. As allways on the Cat junctions between the front edge of engine nacelles and the top of the air intakes is tricky but AMK manages to strengeth this assembly. Well done guys 👍. Some sanding needed after filling the gap with CA. Edited March 14, 2021 by FASTEAGLE107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 (edited) UPDATE BABY ! After one week of sanding and rescribing the panel lines ( mostly around the glove vanes and inflatable wing bags) the primer finally hits the styrene! I use the black primer from AlcladII. Never been disappointed with it, even if my airbrush generally needs a great cleaning after that. Before i put the primer coat, I took a picture of the AMK Tomcat alongside the Kinetic Su-33 to size comparison : the Tomcat is a big aircraft but Sukhoi is even bigger. Masking the wheel hub before painting Next will be the marbling....and the wings/stabilizers Stay safe. Edited March 19, 2021 by FASTEAGLE107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MA Cooke Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 Wow.....looking great. What did you use for the engine exhaust FOD covers? I'm going to have intake and exhaust covers (because I just don't want to mess with Hasegawa's internals!). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 (edited) Thank you MAC, I use the Tamiya expxy putty (ref. 87052-400 - smooth surface it costs around 8€ in France) for the fod covers and as well for the seat belts and cushions inside the cockpit. The process is: 1 - Cut a small amount of white and blue putty to equal length and remove the coating 2 - Kneal together (use some drop of water to get it wet) until the color turn light blue: now that you have a small sphere of putty. 3 - Moisten abundantly the sphere and a flat support (I use a steel plate). 4 - With a damp x-acto knife handle, spread out the dough to obtain a 4 cm diameter circle: the finer the circle, the better the look (press as much as possible on the handle when you roll the dough (like pizza dough)). Thickness around 1/4mm. 5 - Again moisten the paste so flattened and wait between 3 and 6 hours before handling with it (depends on the temperature and humidity of the room). If you use the paste immediately it will be too sticky. 6 - Once the time has elapsed, the dough will be flexible and less sticky but do not forget to always work by moistening the support and the dough. 7 - Remove the paste from tne plate with a knife 8 - Position the putty circle on the nozzle gently. Remove the surplus with a knife (the wet putty works very well even once on its support). Voilà! Hope that helps 😉 Edited March 21, 2021 by FASTEAGLE107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 (edited) Glad you asked about that, MAC. Thanks for the detailed steps, Fasteagle. Do you think it might be a good solution for IP coaming canvas covers? Edited March 21, 2021 by crackerjazz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 Yes it can be a solution. I used it one the canvas too. To reproduce the rougher look of these pieces, I use a hard bristled brush that I tap on the surface before the putty is completely dry. The same goes for the cushions of the seats Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted March 24, 2021 Author Share Posted March 24, 2021 (edited) UPDATE BABY ! The marbling technique is over (wings/stabilizers are still waiting their turn). I use the Uschi Van der Rosten paint masks. First MRP-038 (FS36375) coat is finished. Some touch up but quite pleasant so far. For the top, i will apply the MPR-97 (FS36320) on the front part over the marbling effect later this week. Considering now the exhaust covers, i decided the yellow color is not that much realistic. I found a picture of VF-31 birds (onboard the carrier) i searched for weeks: the covers are dark blue! For the first time ever, i cut masks with Silhouette Portrait cutter machine and applied some insignia blue. Stay safe Edited March 25, 2021 by FASTEAGLE107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MA Cooke Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 😮 Holy cow! I need to up my game to A++++ to get to this level! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MA Cooke Posted March 25, 2021 Share Posted March 25, 2021 17 hours ago, FASTEAGLE107 said: What did you use for what appears to be hooks (holding FOD cover onto exhaust petals)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 (edited) On 3/25/2021 at 10:54 AM, MA Cooke said: Holy cow! I need to up my game to A++++ to get to this level! Thank you MAC ! On 3/25/2021 at 10:56 AM, MA Cooke said: What did you use for what appears to be hooks (holding FOD cover onto exhaust petals)? I have an old 24AWG wrapping wire i use for all my detailing (along with lead wire). The wire stripper is a common tool in electronics and useful for most buildings. Here is a link: Ok Industries Wire Wrapping Wire | Raptor Supplies I drill a 0.3mm hole at the end of the cover to replicate the tension in it. Then I glue with CA from the inside of the nozzle to attach the hook at both ends. Stay safe. Edited March 27, 2021 by FASTEAGLE107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 Excellent stuff, Fasteagle107. Makes me wanna get a tube myself. I think a trip to the LHS is in order : ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted April 4, 2021 Author Share Posted April 4, 2021 On 3/27/2021 at 7:34 PM, crackerjazz said: Excellent stuff, Fasteagle107. Makes me wanna get a tube myself. I think a trip to the LHS is in order : ) Try, it is to love it. Never disappointed with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted April 4, 2021 Author Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) UPDATE BABY ! Happy easter everybody! The next update is all about red paint on the ventral fins and tails. Fightertown had the great idea to separate Felix the Cat from his red decal. So i give the twin fins a first coat. Then a second and finally not less than 4 coats were necessary to replicate this particular shade. A good layer of glossy varnish completes the sealing. (I just noticed the presence of an optional Santa's white hat. Can’t find a picture of this scheme on my reference so far but this could be a funny) Stay safe - Stephane Edited April 5, 2021 by FASTEAGLE107 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 UPDATE BABY ! Not that much of time at the moment for modelling so I show you guys some pictures of the details. The decals have been strongly sealed with a clear coat of Mr Hobby GX100 varnish. Weathering oils and paneliners are just at the corner... Canopy latching mechanism and air hoses on the inside frame are erased and scratchbuilt with plastic sprue. Regards Stephane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MA Cooke Posted April 14, 2021 Share Posted April 14, 2021 Your skills are superb! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted April 15, 2021 Author Share Posted April 15, 2021 Thank you MAC. I see you've launched another Tomcat build. Great idea! Never enough Tomcat! (I have an alpha Tamiya one sitting in its box for 3 years) . VF-143 scheme is a pure beauty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted April 21, 2021 Author Share Posted April 21, 2021 UPDATE BABY ! Loadout time. Configuration will be AIM-9 on station 1A/8A - Aim-54C on station 1B - GBU-12 on stations 3 & 6 Fuel tanks are on the way and Lantirn also ready for installation. A big f*** *** (but in french!) went out of my mouth as i remove the masking tape from the canopy (more than words, just see 😒). Crack just on the front. I wanted to avoid using the canopy in three pieces, I think it’s a failure. Stay safe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MA Cooke Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 20 minutes ago, FASTEAGLE107 said: I wanted to avoid using the canopy in three pieces, I think it’s a failure. Ouch! 20 minutes ago, FASTEAGLE107 said: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MA Cooke Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 On 4/15/2021 at 2:28 AM, FASTEAGLE107 said: Thank you MAC. I see you've launched another Tomcat build. Great idea! Never enough Tomcat! (I have an alpha Tamiya one sitting in its box for 3 years) . VF-143 scheme is a pure beauty. I've shelved The Tomato. Should I be ashamed? I have just lost all motivation to finish it. It's ~ 85% there, most decals are on, I did miss a few. Landing gear doors, bang seats.....that's about all that's left. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FASTEAGLE107 Posted April 21, 2021 Author Share Posted April 21, 2021 49 minutes ago, MA Cooke said: I've shelved The Tomato. Should I be ashamed? I have just lost all motivation to finish it. It's ~ 85% there, most decals are on, I did miss a few. Landing gear doors, bang seats.....that's about all that's left. Not a shame at all MAC. The same here, have a queen shelve Growler sitting upside down for years ! Apart from the canopy (damn again) all is ready for glueing. The mojo has gone away and i can't find out why. Always need a new project. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 Great update! Sorry to hear about the canopy, though. I'm wondering what can be done to save it. Those scratchbuilt details were a labor of love and it's already got the decals on. If you do use the multi-part canopy, I think the edges of the glass should be painted black so they don't reflect light, then glue onto the frame with Hypo GS. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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