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1:48 Tamiya P-47M with some additions


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10 hours ago, djeeper said:

The work on the rivets is amazing.  Can't wait to see hour your topcoat turns out.

 

Thanks - it’s a process and takes awhile (a week in my case!) but I think it really takes the Tamiya kit to the next level.    Im looking forward to the topcoat too- lots of shades of blue/gray/black!

7 hours ago, Gambler said:

Looking forward to the next steps Steve!

 

Looking good.

 

Cheer's,

Jeff.

Thanks for stopping by Jeff!

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6 hours ago, cruiz said:

Looking good, Steve; pardon my ignorance, do the rivets have volume or some texture?; how you could paint over them and keep them visible?.

 

Carlos

Hello Carlos, thanks for stopping by.  The rivets do have some volume.  They are just barely raised off the surface and show up under paint quite well.  HGW recommends putting them on top of the painted surface for natural metal or over the primer for painted surfaces, and then just lightly polishing the painted surface to expose them.  I applied mine over primer and they show through just fine after a few layers of paint - check it out!

 

bIuJ6uZ.jpg
 

Steve 

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Update 4/8

 

I finished the metal surfaces on the leading edges and bottom of the aircraft.   
 


1o8sJgk.jpg

 

M46vk6Z.jpg
 

The overall finish is Tamiya LP-11.  I used liquid masking on some of the smaller hatches and masked off larger panels spraying them with various mixes of Alclad and Gunze GX Clear Brown.  

TQeZfJK.jpg
 

R3BDy0d.jpg

 

2z7hoST.jpg

 

Yes, there are some small surface imperfections left over from the transfers.  I reached out to HGW and told them what I did up to this point - guess what?  It was the Tamiya Compound causing me issues!  It is essentially wax, and it was interacting with the setting solution and the transfer film to make the hard residue that I found along the edges of some of my transfers after pulling up the backing.   Do NOT use compound/modeling wax on your paint if you are applying HGW wet transfers!  It is what it is at this point- I can live with the results and I’m pressing. 


 

Here is how the leading edges on top turned out...
 

Ignore the tape and paint on the wing.  I was just trying out various blue shades for the top color- it is NOT in its final finish.    
 

Note the rivets are clearly visible...

 

That’s all for today.  Hopefully I will have the topside painted up next week - 50 shades of dark blue- wooot!

 

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
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The forum is having issues with me inserting pictures to the captions above so I will try again. Sorry.  

 

——————————————————

Here is how the leading edges on top turned out...

0CagZ55.jpg


syN8iyJ.jpg

Ignore the tape and paint on the wing.  I was just trying out various blue shades for the top color- it is NOT in its final finish.    
U0hu2cR.jpg
 

Note the rivets are clearly visible...
gGznA69.jpg
 

That’s all for today.  Hopefully I will have the topside painted up next week - 50 shades of dark blue- wooot!

 

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
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On 4/8/2021 at 6:35 PM, Falconxlvi said:

Hello Carlos, thanks for stopping by.  The rivets do have some volume.  They are just barely raised off the surface and show up under paint quite well.  HGW recommends putting them on top of the painted surface for natural metal or over the primer for painted surfaces, and then just lightly polishing the painted surface to expose them.  I applied mine over primer and they show through just fine after a few layers of paint - check it out!

 

Thank you for your response; judging by the pics, they enhance the overall look of the model; do you plan to make a wash to highlight them further?.

 

Reading the D&S Dauntless book, in the kits' reviews, they point to the lack of rivets which in the real plane are prominent; this kind of product will be ideal for it.

 

Looking forward to the final paint job on your model.

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Hi Steve, I'm late to the party : )   Some fantastic work you got going here.   Your attention to detail is incredible.  And those embossed rivets sure add to the realism.  A silly question if you don't mind my asking --  for the color variations, do you just add drops of the other color in the cup as you spray?

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23 hours ago, cruiz said:

Thank you for your response; judging by the pics, they enhance the overall look of the model; do you plan to make a wash to highlight them further?.

 

Reading the D&S Dauntless book, in the kits' reviews, they point to the lack of rivets which in the real plane are prominent; this kind of product will be ideal for it.

 

Looking forward to the final paint job on your model.

I am not sure they are protruding enough to capture a wash around the base of each rivet.  I think the bottom is more or less done except for the wash in the panel lines and some weathering - so what you see in the pictures above won’t be too different than the final result.   
 

I can wholeheartedly recommend HGW rivets and they sell individual sets with lines and shapes that you could use on any project!

 

8 hours ago, crackerjazz said:

Hi Steve, I'm late to the party : )   Some fantastic work you got going here.   Your attention to detail is incredible.  And those embossed rivets sure add to the realism.  A silly question if you don't mind my asking --  for the color variations, do you just add drops of the other color in the cup as you spray?

Hello Crackerjazz, thanks for stopping by!

 

  I am a firm believer in mixing outside the cup, so I do not add highlight and shadow colors in the airbrush cup.  I buy packs of small epoxy mixing cups and mix my shades individually.  The airbrush is flushed with lacquer thinner before each shade.   I think that lets you control the shades a lot better and helps the process be a little more deliberate and repeatable.  Maybe it’s overkill, I dunno.   But that’s how I did it.   

 

A lot of the variation you are seeing is also a result of the preshading done with the trinity splatter templates using Tamiya LP-38 Dull Aluminum and then tracing the rivet lines with a 0.2mm needle with Gunze Super Iron before laying down the Tamiya LP-11 main coat.   


Steve
 

 

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2 hours ago, Falconxlvi said:

... I buy packs of small epoxy mixing cups and mix my shades individually.  The airbrush is flushed with lacquer thinner before each shade.   I think that lets you control the shades a lot better and helps the process be a little more deliberate and repeatable.  Maybe it’s overkill, I dunno.   But that’s how I did it. ..

 

No, that totally makes sense.  I normally use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup and it's impossible to reach inside so it's the unmixed paint that shoots out first, which explains why I don't get any variation in shade.  And thanks for that Trinity template info.  I have the Artool FX which is made of cardboard.  When the tinier openings load up with paint and I have to clean the template with a toothbrush and thinner, some of the branches break even if I lay it down flat and scrub carefully.  That photo-etch template should solve the issue.

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2 hours ago, crackerjazz said:

 

No, that totally makes sense.  I normally use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup and it's impossible to reach inside so it's the unmixed paint that shoots out first, which explains why I don't get any variation in shade.  And thanks for that Trinity template info.  I have the Artool FX which is made of cardboard.  When the tinier openings load up with paint and I have to clean the template with a toothbrush and thinner, some of the branches break even if I lay it down flat and scrub carefully.  That photo-etch template should solve the issue.

The photoetch template definitely will!  You can wipe it clean with thinner after each session and it’s as good as new 👍🏻
 

Steve

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On 4/13/2021 at 8:36 AM, 11bee said:

Nice looking finish Steve.   It’s hard to replicate authentic, weathered NMF but it looks like you’ve nailed it.   

Thanks 11Bee.  It’s the first time I’ve ever tried varying a metallic finish like this but it won’t be the last!

 

Steve

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Wow, very educational build thread and a quality build too.

 

I’ve recently worked with Archer rivets, I damaged a row on the Eduard Mk Vb I am currently building (IIb kit has all the Vb parts). I found suitable Archer rivets to replace what I fudged up. I sealed them with Mr Color Black surface primer but I was concerned masking over them would pull the rivets so I masked carefully during the camo to avoid this.

 

It appears you can mask the HGW rivets without any danger of lifting the rivets. How long did it take you to apply all the rivets? I’m ordering up this set now!

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Steve,

 

Frankly, I'm stunned by the level of detail that you have created on your P-47M.  It's far beyond anything I could do, and far more than I would even CONSIDER doing...but the results are spectacular.  I surely hope you are planning to enter your plane into some contests...as I cannot see you doing anything but winning!  Although, speaking for myself, I'd be happy looking at the model on a display shelf, and thinking back on all the work it took to get it there!  I'm looking forward to seeing the final result, sir.  

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2 hours ago, Scooby said:

Wow, very educational build thread and a quality build too.

 

I’ve recently worked with Archer rivets, I damaged a row on the Eduard Mk Vb I am currently building (IIb kit has all the Vb parts). I found suitable Archer rivets to replace what I fudged up. I sealed them with Mr Color Black surface primer but I was concerned masking over them would pull the rivets so I masked carefully during the camo to avoid this.

 

It appears you can mask the HGW rivets without any danger of lifting the rivets. How long did it take you to apply all the rivets? I’m ordering up this set now!

Hello Scooby, thanks for stopping by!

I can vouch for how durable HGW rivets are- I have manhandled this model!  I scrubbed the riveted surface and masked over the rivets without any problems.  Once they are on, they are ON!   It took me about a week to do the main body and another week to do the cowl, which you have to do with free runs of single and double rivet transfers.  I decided to take a slow and methodical approach and let the transfers dry overnight, instead of just 6 hours, to be safe.   I am glad to see you order!  I will be ordering more for sure!

 

PS- I am looking forward to seeing your Spitfire Mk Vb! 

 

1 hour ago, Curt B said:

Steve,

 

Frankly, I'm stunned by the level of detail that you have created on your P-47M.  It's far beyond anything I could do, and far more than I would even CONSIDER doing...but the results are spectacular.  I surely hope you are planning to enter your plane into some contests...as I cannot see you doing anything but winning!  Although, speaking for myself, I'd be happy looking at the model on a display shelf, and thinking back on all the work it took to get it there!  I'm looking forward to seeing the final result, sir.  

Hello Curt, thanks for the kind words ☺️   The last year has presented a lot more opportunities to pursue this great hobby and I’ve found a ton like-minded and talented modelers on Facebook and YouTube who have helped me push my level of finish higher with each build!  If you are on Facebook, I would highly recommend the Scale Modelers Critique Group, Eduard Model Builders Group, and the ARC Aircraft Resource Center!   I have found that a lot of the forum traffic that used to be here 5-10 years ago have moved over onto other social media platforms.  The work in these groups is inspirational and most folks are very quick to answer questions a and share techniques!

 

I do look forward to shows coming back, and it would appear that we might have a fall IPMS show here in Colorado after the everything was cancelled last year.  I’m not sure how competitive my builds would be with all of the awesome stuff I see out there, but I do like the social aspect of model shows and checking out all the cool builds!   I would like to attend nationals in Las Vegas, but it’s a bit far out for me to know if I can attend yet.   
 

Hopefully I can wrap up the P-47M before summer starts and then get back to the F-4E...and Bf 109s...and F-111A 😂

 

Also- you should CONSIDER trying the transfers!  They are really easy to use and add a lot of oomph missing on some of the non-riveted models out there.  They make a lot of sets for 1/48 Tamiya kits that would benefit greatly from riveting.   
 

Take care!

 

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
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3 hours ago, Falconxlvi said:

Hello Scooby, thanks for stopping by!

I can vouch for how durable HGW rivets are- I have manhandled this model!  I scrubbed the riveted surface and masked over the rivets without any problems.  Once they are on, they are ON!   It took me about a week to do the main body and another week to do the cowl, which you have to do with free runs of single and double rivet transfers.  I decided to take a slow and methodical approach and let the transfers dry overnight, instead of just 6 hours, to be safe.   I am glad to see you order!  I will be ordering more for sure!

 

PS- I am looking forward to seeing your Spitfire Mk Vb! 

 

Hello Curt, thanks for the kind words ☺️   The last year has presented a lot more opportunities to pursue this great hobby and I’ve found a ton like-minded and talented modelers on Facebook and YouTube who have helped me push my level of finish higher with each build!  If you are on Facebook, I would highly recommend the Scale Modelers Critique Group, Eduard Model Builders Group, and the ARC Aircraft Resource Center!   I have found that a lot of the forum traffic that used to be here 5-10 years ago have moved over onto other social media platforms.  The work in these groups is inspirational and most folks are very quick to answer questions a and share techniques!

 

I do look forward to shows coming back, and it would appear that we might have a fall IPMS show here in Colorado after the everything was cancelled last year.  I’m not sure how competitive my builds would be with all of the awesome stuff I see out there, but I do like the social aspect of model shows and checking out all the cool builds!   I would like to attend nationals in Las Vegas, but it’s a bit far out for me to know if I can attend yet.   
 

Hopefully I can wrap up the P-47M before summer starts and then get back to the F-4E...and Bf 109s...and F-111A 😂

 

Also- you should CONSIDER trying the transfers!  They are really easy to use and add a lot of oomph missing on some of the non-riveted models out there.  They make a lot of sets for 1/48 Tamiya kits that would benefit greatly from riveting.   
 

Take care!

 

Steve

Steve, thanks for the recommendations for Facebook pages.  If you are considering doing to the National here in Las Vegas, PLEASE let me know.  I may have told you, or perhaps not, that i live in Las Vegas, and I am so hoping that the IPMS National show does happen, in spite of COVID.  I would love to catch up in person. If you want to discuss via e-mail, I'm at cabasner@eartlhink.net.

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16 hours ago, Curt B said:

Steve, thanks for the recommendations for Facebook pages.  If you are considering doing to the National here in Las Vegas, PLEASE let me know.  I may have told you, or perhaps not, that i live in Las Vegas, and I am so hoping that the IPMS National show does happen, in spite of COVID.  I would love to catch up in person. If you want to discuss via e-mail, I'm at cabasner@eartlhink.net.

PM sent 👍🏻

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update 5/10
 

Work continues on the P-47M...

I finished the metal undersides on the flaps, gear doors, lower side of the cowl, and gun bay door (for chipping- the gun bay door will be Zinc Chromate Yellow on the inside/Midnight Blue on the outside)

 

Here is my process for the weathered aluminum look:

1.  Tamiya LP-38 Flat Aluminum thinned with Gunze Mr Rapid Thinner (MRT) and sprayed through a Trinity Splatter template over black Mr Surfacer 1500

 

3rX9Z58.jpg
 

jvI444c.jpg
 

nZYHIuz.jpg
 

D8fhmP6.jpg
 

cID1FRs.jpg

 

2.  Gunze MC203 Super Iron thinned with MRT over panel and rivet lines.  The darker color helps break up the uniformity of the splatter effect and delineates panel details by providing a preshade for the final coat.   
 

rfzgOxP.jpg
 

E10bw2A.jpg
 

 

kWA6j7o.jpg
 

3.  Tamiya LP-11 thinned with MRT misted over the entire piece and used to control the final translucency of the previous effects.

 

oZCYRuG.jpg

 

XqBv0pm.jpg

cDk11rH.mp4

 

OHiLJdd.jpg
 

3uEo7xA.jpg

 

BYHqlJ5.jpg

And the final effect on the bottom before any weathering products:

 

UYw9Etn.jpg

 

Part Two of the update coming right up....

 

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
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Update Part 2 - let’s talk about RED!


In order to add some shadows and color variation on the red cowl and rudder, I added some marbling with Tamiya XF-2 (white) and then went over the rivet and panel lines with Mr Color 81 (Russet).
 

 Next, I airbrushed the rudder and cowl red with Mr Color 327, which is a good match for the Aeromaster code letters and serial number I am using (o may end up getting masks and painting these actually 🤔). 
 

I kept the Mr Color layers thin and ended up with the following result.  I think it’s a good compromise of a true red color while letting the preshade / black-basing work show through.

 

That’s all for now!  Thanks for taking a look!

 

Steve

 

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11 hours ago, Gambler said:

Looking good Steve!

 

Great techniques, thanks for sharing them.👍


This is going to be a stunning model when done.

 

Cheer's,

Jeff.

Thanks Jeff!  Hopefully folks can take away something from this build - I’m more than happy to share my mistakes and processes along the way. That’s the great thing about this hobby- learning new things ☺️
 

Steve

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Steve,

 

You have really taken this to the next level of awesome.

 

As a 47 enthusiast I am grateful that you have posted your step by step progress. Especially your working with the newish Tamiya Lacquers. 
 

Hears to you and your very inspirational build.

 

Mr.Happy 

  

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