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1:48 Tamiya P-47M with some additions


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10 hours ago, djeeper said:

The work on the rivets is amazing.  Can't wait to see hour your topcoat turns out.

 

Thanks - it’s a process and takes awhile (a week in my case!) but I think it really takes the Tamiya kit to the next level.    Im looking forward to the topcoat too- lots of shades of blue/gray/black!

7 hours ago, Gambler said:

Looking forward to the next steps Steve!

 

Looking good.

 

Cheer's,

Jeff.

Thanks for stopping by Jeff!

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3 hours ago, martin_sam_2000 said:

looks great!! Love the details and you paint is perfect.

 

 Sean

Thanks Sean- I don’t know about perfect, but it’s coming along ☺️
 

Steve

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Looking good, Steve; pardon my ignorance, do the rivets have volume or some texture?; how you could paint over them and keep them visible?.

 

Carlos

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6 hours ago, cruiz said:

Looking good, Steve; pardon my ignorance, do the rivets have volume or some texture?; how you could paint over them and keep them visible?.

 

Carlos

Hello Carlos, thanks for stopping by.  The rivets do have some volume.  They are just barely raised off the surface and show up under paint quite well.  HGW recommends putting them on top of the painted surface for natural metal or over the primer for painted surfaces, and then just lightly polishing the painted surface to expose them.  I applied mine over primer and they show through just fine after a few layers of paint - check it out!

 

bIuJ6uZ.jpg
 

Steve 

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Posted (edited)

Update 4/8

 

I finished the metal surfaces on the leading edges and bottom of the aircraft.   
 


1o8sJgk.jpg

 

M46vk6Z.jpg
 

The overall finish is Tamiya LP-11.  I used liquid masking on some of the smaller hatches and masked off larger panels spraying them with various mixes of Alclad and Gunze GX Clear Brown.  

TQeZfJK.jpg
 

R3BDy0d.jpg

 

2z7hoST.jpg

 

Yes, there are some small surface imperfections left over from the transfers.  I reached out to HGW and told them what I did up to this point - guess what?  It was the Tamiya Compound causing me issues!  It is essentially wax, and it was interacting with the setting solution and the transfer film to make the hard residue that I found along the edges of some of my transfers after pulling up the backing.   Do NOT use compound/modeling wax on your paint if you are applying HGW wet transfers!  It is what it is at this point- I can live with the results and I’m pressing. 


 

Here is how the leading edges on top turned out...
 

Ignore the tape and paint on the wing.  I was just trying out various blue shades for the top color- it is NOT in its final finish.    
 

Note the rivets are clearly visible...

 

That’s all for today.  Hopefully I will have the topside painted up next week - 50 shades of dark blue- wooot!

 

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
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Posted (edited)

The forum is having issues with me inserting pictures to the captions above so I will try again. Sorry.  

 

——————————————————

Here is how the leading edges on top turned out...

0CagZ55.jpg


syN8iyJ.jpg

Ignore the tape and paint on the wing.  I was just trying out various blue shades for the top color- it is NOT in its final finish.    
U0hu2cR.jpg
 

Note the rivets are clearly visible...
gGznA69.jpg
 

That’s all for today.  Hopefully I will have the topside painted up next week - 50 shades of dark blue- wooot!

 

Steve

Edited by Falconxlvi
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On 4/8/2021 at 6:35 PM, Falconxlvi said:

Hello Carlos, thanks for stopping by.  The rivets do have some volume.  They are just barely raised off the surface and show up under paint quite well.  HGW recommends putting them on top of the painted surface for natural metal or over the primer for painted surfaces, and then just lightly polishing the painted surface to expose them.  I applied mine over primer and they show through just fine after a few layers of paint - check it out!

 

Thank you for your response; judging by the pics, they enhance the overall look of the model; do you plan to make a wash to highlight them further?.

 

Reading the D&S Dauntless book, in the kits' reviews, they point to the lack of rivets which in the real plane are prominent; this kind of product will be ideal for it.

 

Looking forward to the final paint job on your model.

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Hi Steve, I'm late to the party : )   Some fantastic work you got going here.   Your attention to detail is incredible.  And those embossed rivets sure add to the realism.  A silly question if you don't mind my asking --  for the color variations, do you just add drops of the other color in the cup as you spray?

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23 hours ago, cruiz said:

Thank you for your response; judging by the pics, they enhance the overall look of the model; do you plan to make a wash to highlight them further?.

 

Reading the D&S Dauntless book, in the kits' reviews, they point to the lack of rivets which in the real plane are prominent; this kind of product will be ideal for it.

 

Looking forward to the final paint job on your model.

I am not sure they are protruding enough to capture a wash around the base of each rivet.  I think the bottom is more or less done except for the wash in the panel lines and some weathering - so what you see in the pictures above won’t be too different than the final result.   
 

I can wholeheartedly recommend HGW rivets and they sell individual sets with lines and shapes that you could use on any project!

 

8 hours ago, crackerjazz said:

Hi Steve, I'm late to the party : )   Some fantastic work you got going here.   Your attention to detail is incredible.  And those embossed rivets sure add to the realism.  A silly question if you don't mind my asking --  for the color variations, do you just add drops of the other color in the cup as you spray?

Hello Crackerjazz, thanks for stopping by!

 

  I am a firm believer in mixing outside the cup, so I do not add highlight and shadow colors in the airbrush cup.  I buy packs of small epoxy mixing cups and mix my shades individually.  The airbrush is flushed with lacquer thinner before each shade.   I think that lets you control the shades a lot better and helps the process be a little more deliberate and repeatable.  Maybe it’s overkill, I dunno.   But that’s how I did it.   

 

A lot of the variation you are seeing is also a result of the preshading done with the trinity splatter templates using Tamiya LP-38 Dull Aluminum and then tracing the rivet lines with a 0.2mm needle with Gunze Super Iron before laying down the Tamiya LP-11 main coat.   


Steve
 

 

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2 hours ago, Falconxlvi said:

... I buy packs of small epoxy mixing cups and mix my shades individually.  The airbrush is flushed with lacquer thinner before each shade.   I think that lets you control the shades a lot better and helps the process be a little more deliberate and repeatable.  Maybe it’s overkill, I dunno.   But that’s how I did it. ..

 

No, that totally makes sense.  I normally use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup and it's impossible to reach inside so it's the unmixed paint that shoots out first, which explains why I don't get any variation in shade.  And thanks for that Trinity template info.  I have the Artool FX which is made of cardboard.  When the tinier openings load up with paint and I have to clean the template with a toothbrush and thinner, some of the branches break even if I lay it down flat and scrub carefully.  That photo-etch template should solve the issue.

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2 hours ago, crackerjazz said:

 

No, that totally makes sense.  I normally use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup and it's impossible to reach inside so it's the unmixed paint that shoots out first, which explains why I don't get any variation in shade.  And thanks for that Trinity template info.  I have the Artool FX which is made of cardboard.  When the tinier openings load up with paint and I have to clean the template with a toothbrush and thinner, some of the branches break even if I lay it down flat and scrub carefully.  That photo-etch template should solve the issue.

The photoetch template definitely will!  You can wipe it clean with thinner after each session and it’s as good as new 👍🏻
 

Steve

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