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1/72 Hasegawa VF-103 Santa Cat


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Hi there!

 

I might be able to squeeze one more build. It's been a long while since I've built a GE powered F-14. And the 2000/2001 cruise VF-103 Santa Cat has been on my mind for a while now.

I happen to have an opened and partially decompleted F-14B. There are some bits missing such as the NLG door for F-14B, engine side inserts, windscreen and canopy. I have these parts misplaced around the spare stash. The problem is finding them.

 

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I'm going to use the DreamModel decals. Never used them, I've seen some minor errors on the sheet - the Golden Wrench award seems missing, the RESCUE arrows look suspiciously thick, the red stripes on the candy cane look too thick. Not really deal breakers.

 

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Just in case, I've some additional decals - a Microscale sheet for the same jet from the same period, but with regular skull and bones. While I'd prefer the markings that were used in combat, but the Christmas jet is just too awesome. I'll probably arm it to the teeth just for the fun of it. I have also theback up options for some other jets from VF-103 from Jasmine models.

 

 

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This model is actually a first chapter in my next big project - the swing wing saga. I'd start with Tornado first, if it wasnt for the group build timeline.

I managed to complete all my other uncompleted projects (save for one), so I could still have a chance to complete this model for the deadline. Focus, gentlemen, focus.

 

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I've built a lot of Hasegawa Tomcats. The ejector pins on the intakes are always first to go.

 

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The thing I only started to to recently is to rescribe the panel lines. Frankly, I don't rescribe all of them. The round ones, and the smaller panel lines on the underside I do not bother with.

 

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I have my spare parts stashed away in zip bags with similar pieces. I managed to find all the pieces missing.

 

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Hasegawa F-14's are a modular bunch. I usually put up subassemblies even before I start on the cockpit. The wings in particular. I have a feeling that each Hasegawa F-14 I build the wings fit differently.

 

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One thing I also did was to eliminate the spine antennae bases. Pictures seem to show they just grow out of the fuselage. Whenever I have to put a piece in an indentation I drill holes so I can adjust the part from the back. You can see the deepened panel lines. All thanks to Olfa P scriber. Seriously, a wonderfull tool.

 

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The biggest cockpit diference for the late B version is the PTID display I made with thin plastic card. The individual buttons are simply out of my skill.

 

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Somehow I figured, I'd be better off adding the intakes before painting and assembling the ramps. Really clever thinking on my part. Luckilly I glued only one intake. It's WAY easier to paint it before everything is assembled. Unfortunatly, the gamble worked, I managed to score a kill. But I hope I showed it as a way not to build a Hasegawa Tomcat.

 

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Intake pieces don't fit well. Sanding them a bit at the ends and bending them outwards ensure a much better fit. Since the plastic is hard but of good quality You can apply careful force to do so. It's generally safe. Oh... Shoot.

 

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However, the general fit of this area is pretty good.

 

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However I really should do more forward thinking. Adding compresor faces to THAT wasn't the easiest task in the Navy. I'll try twice as hard the next time.

 

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I really like the moment the aft fuselage is complete. The work on the front fuselage (and the dreaded joint) can be next.

 

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I'm actually waaaay past this stage in build, as the front and back fuselage are joint together. I got so hooked I just didn't take more pics of it. On the weekend I'll hope I'll have some more time to do modeling, so I might be able to catch up on the progress.

 

I built this kit a lot of times. Frankly, never really learning from my mistakes. If You have any advice, I'd love to hear it. It's a kit that was praise for it's accuracy. Not ease of build or a good fit. I wonder if I'll manage to clock a better time than HB kit I did before... The clock is ticking and we are keeping score.

 

So untill next time! Stay safe!

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On 7/14/2021 at 1:13 PM, phantom said:

Nice .

 

Thanks!

 

On 7/15/2021 at 11:33 AM, SERNAK said:

Yeap! Been there, done that with a Mig-29 intake.

Isn't that fun? Luckilly in my case the break was easy to fix.

 

 

So here's a bit more of an update. The cockpit is done. After quite a few tries with different types of detailing in the pit I can say, the Aires cockpit is awesome. Both for all the displays, cockpit tub details and such. It's also the most time consuming to put together, and generally, a pain. The Eduard PE looks quite good, although without any 3d effect. The Hasegawa PE under a coat of paint look pretty ok, as I generally prefer to have some 3d effect. But frankly, they seem just a little too big for the consoles. And honestly for the side consoles, the decals look pretty ok.

 

 

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Oh, I forgot the reinforcement around the RIO step. This time I added a thin plastic stripe to the end of the front fuselage, to spread the two halves a bit. This made the fit of the side panels a little better, and created a step on the upper part. This will be, hopefully, a little easier to deal cleanly than the step on the sides.

 

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The underside fits quite good. Thanks to the stripe, I didn't have so much work on the joint of the lower fuselage insert and the front fuselage.

 

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See? all pretty much cleaned up with minimal filler.

 

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This side is even better. I also filled the glove vanes with some plastic card, as I lost the kit part.

 

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Hasegawa gives You holes for the fuel tanks too much to the outer sides. Generally this bothers me. But then again, I'm lazy, so I'm leaving it as it is.

 

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Ok. This does bother me. 4 seconds with a 0.8 or 0.9 mm drill and voilla.

This is also a quite good shot to show the step on the intake to fuselage joints (the back ones). I'm generally not going to bother filling it, unless, under a coat of paint it'll show.

Yes, no one will see that huge ejector pin mark. Ever.

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I'm going for a front pallets with bomb racks, as it seems to be the configuration of that time. Fightertown decals instructions mention the front pallets with bomb racks.  I assume this means no rear pallets.

 

Oh, and just for fun, here's my previous effort. A Fujimi kit with Fightertown decals.

 

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Thanks for stopping by!

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So I'm pretty much ready for painting stage. Entire model is buttoned up, most of the holes are filled and sanded, the ones that remain - on the wing bladders and the intake to fuselage joint. That one is on the panel line, and under a bit of paint it looks ok-ish.

 

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The IP's came out ok too. Perhaps not the best work I've done, but pretty much ok.

 

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Fins got some white paint, and You can barely see the clear blue panel on the windscreen. Never done it in 1/72. Always thought that it's too much hassle for too little gain. I wonder how I'll feel once it's done.

 

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Ok, looking at this pic I might have to fix the bladder joint a bit. And now. The exhaust. My biggest problem with this kit. Normally, I add the side inserts before adding the round exhaust covers. That is on the A kits. The Bravos and Deltas have different side inserts. The only thing in common with the A part is the bad fit. See? It;s all dryfitted right now.

 

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This is one of my previous builds. Notice the puttied inserts where the engine inserts should be. This way I can paint the entire camo on an airframe separatly of the engine exhaust inserts. It's usually a tight fit, but works very well for me. I have to insert them at an angle, from the bottom. The B parts prevent such an arrangement.

 

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So I decided I'll add the side piece to the rest and make it a subassembly. I sanded the piece a bit from the under side and a little from the outer side. The B and D engine coamings are blackish colour with distinct feature of a chrome or silver ring where the black part meets the petals. I much prefer doing the petals and the coaming separatly, then painting the thin ring with silver paint. With how I remember the fit of the parts, the only problem would be aligning the petals to form a nice circle.

 

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Some minor stuff is done too, such as the shoulder pylons. I'm going for a aim-9, aim-7 and lantrin configuration. Don't know what bombs I'm gonna use.

 

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Canopy and windshield is masked and painted black. I took a chance and painted some more stuff black (more on that later), and since I mixed so much of the black paint I decided on some preshading of the areas I'm going to weather the most.

 

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I don't pay too much attention on the underside, as it's mostly left unseen.

 

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I use Tamiya rubber black for airbrushing, it's not a strong black colour, which I feel is good for the 1/72 scale. This time I chose a different method of painting the wheels, I used a large drop of masking fluid. Worked much better than the last time I did it. Easier for me than painting white and then using a round template for a white paint.

 

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So, this is where I'm at, painting stage. The trouble is I don't have the gunze or tamiya equivalent of medium gray. I do have a Model Master med gray, which supposedly is a very good match for the FS colour. You can see it on my previous santa cat. I'm generally happy with it, unless I have to 1) mask anything 2) mix Model Master paint layers with Gunze/Tamiya. They react to one another, and very often there are cracks on the top paint, even after the lower paint is dry. This doesn't show with black paint (or the rubber black) but most colours there is at least a bit of such reaction. Don't know why, but I suppose it's just some different surface tension of the paint, or something like that. tl-dr - I don't put Gunze/Model Master layers on top of one another.

This is very easilly mitigated by just buying a Gunze paint. Easy.

 

The second problem is, and that one is quite important for me - paint demarcations. The light ghost gray (lgg) and dark ghost gray (dgg) on the nose are pretty easy - well documented on the Fightertown decal instructions.

What I have problem with, are the fuselage sides and the demarcation between dgg and med gray.

THIS:

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Ft1.daumcdn.net%2Fcfile%2Fblog%2F2237254155F118531E&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fblog.daum.net%2Frahmen%2F59&tbnid=-c16WM9OSecEPM&vet=12ahUKEwjeloLbsNnxAhUEyCoKHdUGBn4QMyg2egQIARBB..i&docid=3FRCvr1UssyQcM&w=620&h=295&q=santa cat&client=firefox-b-d&ved=2ahUKEwjeloLbsNnxAhUEyCoKHdUGBn4QMyg2egQIARBB

picture I'm going for as the demarcation of the dgg and med gray on the upper fuselage. It's different as to how the instrucions show.

Here's the thread with a good picture of the medium gray to lighter gray by the tailplanes.

So the problem that remains unsolved is, which colour for the intake sides? The options are a plenty. From lgg, to dgg. Technicaly, this is a "fuselage side" so it should be painted dgg. For the life of me I can't figure it out based on pictures. What seems to be most sensible is dgg intake sides with lgg on the underside of intakes. And with dgg on the shoulder pylons. Does anyone know? I'm very interested to hear Your opinion.

 

I'm posting some possibilities as shown in the instructions I have on hand for the F-14B in tps. Only the Fightertown decals, Dream Model decals and Superscale decals are for the same jet from the same cruise. Generally most trust I place in Fightertown decals instructions. Aside from a minor thing with the upper med gray demarcation lines they seem pretty accurate to me. So unless I fint a proof that this profile is wrong, I'm going with it. Obviously, there is a huge problem with distinction of dgg/lgg and also with med gray (faded)/dgg. I suppose in the end I'm going to have to just pick one option and live with it.

 

 

 

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I'm going off on vacations for a while, without internet and modelling. But my colour doubts are going with me. If you have any ideas, or some online material You can point me to, I'd greatly appreciate it. I mean imagine the mayhem that would ensue if I put on a WRONG colour on a model. All the protests, riots and such 😉 

 

Thanks for stopping by!

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, all the colour considerations came to a close. I chose the light ghost gray only on the undersides. I figured sides of the nacelles are essentially sides, just like the side of the nose. Well. I guess I wasted two weeks pondering on stuff that was made irrelevant by my choice of paint. I chose Gunze H308 for the undersides, H307 for the sides and Model Master Acryl Medium Gray. I know 36375 and 36320 are very close colours. But recently my tries with Gunze colours was they were 1) very dark, 2) very blue and 3) pretty much the same colour. For 1 and 2 I feel all it takes is just a bit of white paint. Besides, I usually did them on a black base which I feel darkens the top layer, and brings blueish tint. I add more white to the 36375, less white to the 36320 and usually I'm ok.

Additional note - my pics are bad. But this time I really captured the colour as close to the reality as they are.

The colour demarcation line should be lined up a bit under the NACA vents by the gun (that was my point of orientation) and by the vertical panel line near at the front of the intake (the one that goes all the way from top to bottom). Yeah. I kind of can't see it.

 

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Ok, my photography skill is non existent. Next pic? Nope, more of the same. Which is odd, as I can see the touch ups I did near the grill, or by the step reinforcement.

 

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The touch ups on the top are visible too.

 

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Paint demarcation is one thing, as I can fake it, but really I kind of feel that my entire 36375 (H308) paint is actually the 36320 (H307). I mean, check out the blueishness. There is a lot of thinned and whitened down H308. I guess I could have mistaken the cups.

 

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Topside came out ok, if not a bit too light. Gunze grays are glossy, so after a matt coat they will get tiny bit washed out and lighter. MM colours are matt.

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And I can see the colour demarcation line on the top between the Gunze H307 and MM med gray. Gotta say I really like the the touch up effect. I'm going to work on these areas during weathering stage.

 

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For all my concerns regarding the Gunze/MM reaction I figured I'll use both the Tamiya X20 thinner I use on the Gunze and Tamiya paints, as well as a bit of Gunze white paint to lighten MM Med gray. I'm pleased to report it works! No cracking problem as of 24 hours. I also painted very thin layers.

 

I'm not happy with the skunk stripe. I feel its too thin by the nose. I tried to match it to the photos. There is just that weird feeling in my head that it should be a bit different, fatter perhaps and then suddenly going to the tip of the nose. But then again, I feel if I try to "fix" it I'll ekhem it up.

 

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So this is it for a while. I'm off to touch up the white on the wheel wells and paint the bladders and finish the exhaust nozzles.

 

Thanks for stopping by!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was kind of hoping that the dgg and lgg would come out a little lighter under the gloss coat than the med gray. Well, I kind of was right.

 

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This shot shows more of the demarcation line. It's visible more in the naked eye, but apparently I can't shoot pics with my phone. Ah, who am I kidding. Dgg came out too dark, med gray came out too light. I'll have to fix it later during weathering. I'll either do some fine touch up and shading or try something else. I still have time to do this. I kind of like how the wings came out. Quite patchy. I liked it even better before when all the paints applied had a little different shines, some were very matt, some were a bit glossy.

 

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And my first gripe is no more. I went over the horizontal demarcation line between the dgg and lgg with a bit of white mist. And so now it looks lighter. I did the same with all lgg-dgg borders and on a tcs. Agreed, the result is very subtle for the most part - You can't see it on the lower part of the fuselage in this photo. It shows more on the front Phoenix pallet. I still count that as a win! I'll have to dirty up the cream ew suite antennae.

 

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And - oh my gosh how I hate masking - part. I might have said something a bit more stark. I painted the exhaust nozzles with brush. Hoping the AK extreme metal would go down similar to how the MM metalizers do. They don't. It came out as a clustersomething that didn't want to get cleaned with thinner. And so I sprayed metalizer. Yuck how I dislike that. And then masked the grayish colour. How I hate masking. Did I mention that? Absolutely.hate.masking. For like 45 seconds of spraying.

 

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But whoooa. The result is pretty ok. The metal colour is MM burnt metal (buffing), shot on the plastic, no base colour. The dark areas were supposed to be gunmetal (also a MM metalizer) but my paint turned out dry. So no more MM gunmetal for me. Still, now I'm more likelly to do the small stuff with an airbrush than I was a couple years ago. So I guess when I spray them the AK extreme metal comes out ok. And not as smelly as Alclad. Gotta do some more testing to find a new metalizer paint.

Any thoughts on that?

 

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So, after all the other stuff was out of the way, small stuf was painted and so, I started decalling. The Dream Model decals came out very nice. Thin, durable, came off the paper after a few seconds. No problem there. However... The victory stripe is a bit of a misprint. The white stripes are not symmetrical. I thought I was seeing things, but I'm not. I already applied the decal and really don't want to go in and remove it. The other thing is the rescue arrows are too thick and all aroung weird. Not the biggest issue, but still. Next, there is no black carrier name. Only white. AFAIK, the white carrier name was only applied on the skull and crossbones. Not skull and crosscandycane.

According to Fightertown decals instructions, the carrier name was removed late 2000. So at least I can go with that. The bomb marks look like three CBU's, not three GBU's. I sourced them from the Superscale sheet. The last thing was actually expected. I did not measure the decals relevant to the fin decals - the black stripes that separate the white areas. I omitted them on my last build, as I could not apply them properly and It shows. So it turned out they were a bit too short for my fins. Oooops. I took a Hasegawa black VFA-103 tail and cut it to four long stripes I cut to match my fin white caps. A first for me.

 

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And all the decals are done! I used the kit supplied Cartograf sheet for the Lantrin, formation lights and the walkways. Walkways kind of disintegrated in the water. I managed to use all my puzzle skill to put them together. So all the other decals got a light coat of decal film on them. You can kind of see the black stripes and the assymetry of the victory stripe. Them arrow look suspicious too. Much more on the closer look. Fun fact - I still did not glue the engine shrouds to fuselage and exhaust nozzles to them.

 

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So the deadline is approaching fast, and I think I still have the chance to make it. I took weapons from the spares, still undecided shoud I go a single GBU-10 or double GBU-12. None of the pics I have of this jet support either loadout. It probably did not fly a single combat mission in december 2000.

 

So that is all for now. Thanks for stopping by!

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Ooooh I always felt the Hasegawa F-14's are long builds. They seemed to drag on and on. It took me 42 hours to get there. I really did not expect that much. And I did not count most of the times I was searching for misplaced parts... A lot of fun. I might be self satisfied but I never built a Tomcat that I felt looked this good. Or at least one I was this happy with.

 

Now that I'm done, I don't really know what to write. There were ups, downs... Despite the Hobby Boss taking almost half of the time, taking a lot of unwanted work off, such as rescribing entire fuselage, and looking pretty much decent all around, I still much prefer the Hasegawa Tomcat. Only beff I have is with cockpit. The IP coamings are just too big, so are the seats. But the resin ones don't look right with these coamings. I generally don't like the separate clear nav lights.

I'm super glad the first build in my long term project is done. I already started the second one - a Tornado.

 

Some pics? Yup, sorry for their qualitty. I really feel I used to take better pictures with Iphone 5s than with 8. And I can't seem to get the lighting set up. Pictures seem to be both too light and too dark.

 

I came out of the med gray and dgg trouble by just accenting demarcation line with a litlle darker gray.

 

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Oh, some more fun facts - I misplaced the boarding steps. Had to make some from scratch.

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So eventually I glued the engine coamings in place. The petals are however still detachable. I left them glossy. For no reason at all apparently.

 

One thing troublesome were the gloss black areas. I had some deliberation on how to pull it off, but eventually I decided on just masking them off and shooting Tamiya matt.

 

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And just for the sake of some nostalgia, the only other GE powered F-14 in my collection. And as far as I remember, the very first "new tool" Hasegawa Tomcat I built. Probably a first model I ever accentuated panel lines on.

 

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Thanks for stepping by, and for a great group build. I had a blast!

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On 8/28/2021 at 2:23 PM, viper730 said:

They Look Great!!!!

 

On 8/28/2021 at 4:28 PM, crackerjazz said:

Beautiful weathering, Thadeus! 

Thank You very much for Yout kind words!

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