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TAMIYA F4B PHANTOM II 1/48.


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Greetings,

 

The plane is now ready to be primed and painted. I had to clean up the seams of the intake and I used a wash to check if the panel lines and rivets are still there. I will need to replace some misising rivets as you can see. What is the best way to do this? I think about punching the surface with a sharp needle then soften with a brush of extra thin cement. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Hello all,

 

Working on the seats tonight. The Quinta set while great for instrument panels is not good for the seats. The seat belts are flat (hard to make them look wrinkled) and the red on the pull ejection handle is wrong on the diagram. The seat cover looks aweful and I may have to go for after market resin seats. We will see. Dai 

 

347ADDD2-83BE-4C63-9396-11E9E7DD17CC.jpeg

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Not happy with Quinta offering of the ejection rings, I replace them with Eduard PE. Not to my liking but better outcome. Next time I will use twisted painted wires as shown on the Net. Dai 

 

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On 3/14/2023 at 1:23 PM, dai phan said:

Also the color of the missiles is white or insignia white? There is a big difference as the IW has a creamy tint to it. Thanks DP 

The missiles would be gloss white faded to a semi-gloss white, radome of the Sparrows would the a tan'ish flat white.

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On 3/14/2023 at 11:12 AM, dai phan said:

Hi all,

 

The pylons that hold the Sidewinders on the sides have nothing in the center section. What is the appropriate thing I can drop fit in? Dai

If the pylon has the weapons adapter on it you can add a TER.

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1 hour ago, GW8345 said:

The missiles would be gloss white faded to a semi-gloss white, radome of the Sparrows would the a tan'ish flat white.

One time I was at the museum and I could see the difference in white between the missile and under belly white of the F4. Dai 

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1 hour ago, dai phan said:

One time I was at the museum and I could see the difference in white between the missile and under belly white of the F4. Dai 

Doing a little research I noticed the the bottom of Phantoms were painted FS 17925 (Gloss White) and not FS 17875 (Insignia White).

 

So I recommend painting the missiles a flat white and don't weather them that much, missiles were regularly cleaned and were well cared so they would have very little weathering.

 

 

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24 minutes ago, GW8345 said:

Doing a little research I noticed the the bottom of Phantoms were painted FS 17925 (Gloss White) and not FS 17875 (Insignia White).

 

So I recommend painting the missiles a flat white and don't weather them that much, missiles were regularly cleaned and were well cared so they would have very little weathering.

 

 

Thank you and that is what I will do. I see some heavy weathered missiles on Navy planes and this is not correct. Well I have seen too may over weathered models and I am not a believer in such. That is why my builds are pretty clean. Dai

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2 hours ago, dai phan said:

Thank you and that is what I will do. I see some heavy weathered missiles on Navy planes and this is not correct. Well I have seen too may over weathered models and I am not a believer in such. That is why my builds are pretty clean. Dai

Totally agree, I don't weather my aircraft that much also, seems like the trend today is a contest to see how weathered/dirty a modeler can make a Navy aircraft and I don't recall them ever being that weather/dirty when I was skinning knuckles on them.

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5 hours ago, GW8345 said:

Totally agree, I don't weather my aircraft that much also, seems like the trend today is a contest to see how weathered/dirty a modeler can make a Navy aircraft and I don't recall them ever being that weather/dirty when I was skinning knuckles on them.

Navy aircraft are on aircraft carrier, not muddy fields in the tropics. I have seen beautiful birds ruined by over weathering. Dai 

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23 hours ago, GW8345 said:

Doing a little research I noticed the the bottom of Phantoms were painted FS 17925 (Gloss White) and not FS 17875 (Insignia White).

 

So I recommend painting the missiles a flat white and don't weather them that much, missiles were regularly cleaned and were well cared so they would have very little weathering.

 

 

I use Mr Color and now I realized Mr Color has 4 whites: C 1 (gloss white),  C 62 (flat white) , C 381 (FS 17925 Insignia White) then C 316 (FS 17875 US Navy F-14, A4 on the bottle). I cannot find C 381 anywhere so looks like it is discontinured. So the color I should go for is white MC 1? Thanks Dai 

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4 hours ago, dai phan said:

I use Mr Color and now I realized Mr Color has 4 whites: C 1 (gloss white),  C 62 (flat white) , C 381 (FS 17925 Insignia White) then C 316 (FS 17875 US Navy F-14, A4 on the bottle). I cannot find C 381 anywhere so looks like it is discontinured. So the color I should go for is white MC 1? Thanks Dai 

I recommend C1 - Gloss White.

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Howdy all,

 

I started painting the under berlly white and that is another can of worm that is opened. The normal thinking is the underneath color of the Navy planes in the 80's was insignia white. This was the creamy white FS 17875 that we all used to know. However as I did some research encouraged by GW8345, the actual white was FS 17925 which was a brighter white not tinted creamy white. US Navy at that time did not allow any kind of mixing to get the creamy FS 17875 so the "brighter" white un-mixed was used. Mr Color had the C 381 that was FS 17925 but long discontinued. I am not aware of any companies that produce FS 17925 so I went for the white Mr Color C1. To be honest that looks pretty intense white to me but I think in real life, this could have been the case and as the plane went through the life that the bright white may have taken a creamy weathered white. I applied some brown oil weathering and it looks more to what I am expecting. As hard as I was trying to control the paint flow, I did lost some panel lines and rivets due to over application of the gloss white (not so forgiving, very easy to over apply). I did rescribed some panel lines and some rivets but not all. Dai 

 

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On 3/15/2023 at 7:05 PM, GW8345 said:

Doing a little research I noticed the the bottom of Phantoms were painted FS 17925 (Gloss White) and not FS 17875 (Insignia White).

 

So I recommend painting the missiles a flat white and don't weather them that much, missiles were regularly cleaned and were well cared so they would have very little weathering.

 

 

Yes I will do a wash to add depth but no chipping, mud stain or streaks. Dai 

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Greetings everyone...

 

Painted all the white components. I will let the  gloss white color dry for a few days before going on with the grey. In the mean time will work on the missiles . To do away with painstaking masking of the inner side of the intakes, I cheated by using the drop fit Quickboost FOD cover. 

 

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Howdy all,

 

I took a jump and used a brush dipped in leveling thinner and removed the paint to the bare plastic so I could see the panel lines. Then went at it. I had to end up fill and sand and rescribed many times as I could not keep a straight line ! Lost a bunch of rivets and now I have to find a way to put them back. Dai 

 

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Hi all,

 

Not happy with the scribing, fill the panel lines with CA then rescribe. Yes lost more rivets and details so I have to find a way to put them back. Scribing to me is the most difficult thing to do because I simply cannot get the lines straight. If I try to improve on the existing line then I end up with 2 panel lines. I simply cannot get the lines to be straight. Too much filling, sanding, rescribe then one slip starts the process all over again. There has to be a better way than this. The scribed panel lines are just horrible. Dai 

 

E069CBDE-3F84-454B-A5DB-3999723CCCF7.jpeg

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3 minutes ago, dai phan said:

Hi all,

 

Not happy with the scribing, fill the panel lines with CA then rescribe. Yes lost more rivets and details so I have to find a way to put them back. Scribing to me is the most difficult thing to do because I simply cannot get the lines straight. If I try to improve on the existing line then I end up with 2 panel lines. I simply cannot get the lines to be straight. Too much filling, sanding, rescribe then one slip starts the process all over again. There has to be a better way than this. Dai 

 

E069CBDE-3F84-454B-A5DB-3999723CCCF7.jpeg

 

I feel your pain. Scribing can easily turn into a lesson in frustration. Regarding rivet lines, I'm never able to keep them straight or properly spaced by hand. Most of the time, I resort to my Hasegawa Trytool guides.

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