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TAMIYA F4B PHANTOM II 1/48.


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Without knowing your current scribing process, it’s hard to say what the issue is, or how to help.  There are several good YouTube tutorials on scribing, you might give those a go and see if you like one of those methods better than your current setup.  A good roll of Dymo tape along with a needle in pin vise or a scribing tool is a good method.  To get the rivets back, there are a variety of riveting tools on the market as well.

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Since the rivets on the LH forward fuselage appear to be intact, you could lay a piece of clear tape over them and gently puncture the tape above each rivet with a needle. Remove the perforated tape and reapply it over the RH forward fuselage. Now you have a rivet guide. It worked for me on my Phantom build...click here (see second post on page two).

Edited by RichB63
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Hello all,

 

Well I butchered the panel lines and details pretty bad and there is no going back. I do not think I can restore the lost details to my satisfaction so I ordered a new kit. To make my "re-effort" not in vain, I ordered the Big Dog super detail set. There is no instruction nor any reviews so I will have to see if I can incorporate its use without stratch building like I did in the past.  I suspect they give you the parts then it is up to you on making it work. On my Verlinden, Aires, CMK, Eduard's engines I had to do so much prep work that I really want to avoid if I can. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Greetings,

 

I do not have the Black Dog detail set in my hands but looking at the photos, I do not think there are any mounting tabs. This is not a big problem but the potential issue is the fit of the parts to the fuselage. There seems to be gaps every where and this means filling and sanding. And that means panel lines and rivets are to be lost (the main reason why I start all over). The only thing that seems to fit well is the RAM on top of the left fuselage. On EB there are some offers with spare fuselage so I will order these to check the fit of the resin parts. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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The pieces in those photos are not glued together, note the large gaps present.  The Black Dog sets are 3-D printed and fit quite well, in my experience.  I'd pump the brakes a bit until you have the sets in hand, before buying additional fuselages pieces.

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2 hours ago, lockheed2004 said:

The pieces in those photos are not glued together, note the large gaps present.  The Black Dog sets are 3-D printed and fit quite well, in my experience.  I'd pump the brakes a bit until you have the sets in hand, before buying additional fuselages pieces.

Yes of course. I see the pieces are just there not glued together for photos but I wished they have. Does not look good on photos. Dai 

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3 hours ago, lockheed2004 said:

The pieces in those photos are not glued together, note the large gaps present.  The Black Dog sets are 3-D printed and fit quite well, in my experience.  I'd pump the brakes a bit until you have the sets in hand, before buying additional fuselages pieces.

Do they have mounting tabs of just the pieces? Dai 

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Howdy,

 

Many companies are joining in the feeding frenzy of the Tamiya's kit. Newest comer is Kelik (Ukraine) 3D set and I ordered it. It seems to have the correct dark gull grey and the details are more raised and defined than Quinta. Will keep you informed. Dai 

 

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s-l1600 (2).jpg

Edited by dai phan
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Hello everyone,

 

The rebuilding of the fuselage has begun. The 3D cockpit set is Kelik (Reskit) and it is very nice except for the weird gray-greenish background that I will have to correct. I do not know why all of these companies get the grey background wrong. The Kelik gives you more panels than Babibi and Quinta. Still have to do some additional painting and wash. I dry fit the bottom piece on the new fuselage and it is a prefect fit. Must have done something to cause much aligment on the previous build.  Dai

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Greetings to all,

 

I got the Black Dog detail set today. The parts are cast resin rather than 3D printed. The details are sharp but sadly the top spine electronics is warped as you can see on the photo. I plan to use the top spine, the left RAM and the right gun bay but let's see how the small gun bay fits first before going any further. The engine is nice but beyond my ability to stratch build the holding bay. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Hello all,

 

Looks like I will have to remove the warped part if I cannot straighten via heat application. I am not going to use all resin parts because I do not want my plane to look like a skeleton. I have yet to see an actual photo of the Phantom with its internal structure showing so can someone comment on the colors of the pluming? Silver I assume ? Dai 

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Hello friends,

 

Started working on the Black Dog set. I use the top compartment, the left RAT compartment and the right gun bay. The RAT bay and the gun compartment fit well but there are lots of dry fitting and careful sanding to avoid gaps.  I had to apply a little bit of putty as you see on the RAT bay. The propeller of the RAT is too thick and I wish BD would provide PE for this part. The top resin part is warped so I could only use 1/2 of the bay. I cut the kit's panel to where the panel line is. Unfortunately the bulk heads of the resin parts do not correspond to the rear and the front panel lines. I opt to favor the front most bulkhead as it is more readily seen compared to the rear. When you glue the resin parts, make sure the edges of the resin and the kit are NOT flushed with each other. Remember a panel will go over on top of the resin so there must a slight step to account for the thickness of the panel.  Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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1 hour ago, JEN722 said:

Why is it that you add the radome before the windscreen?

 

You seem to have done so on both your F-4Bs.

 

Jens

At step 33, the instruction indicated the radome be attached to the fuselage. Am I wrong ? Thanks Dai 

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Hello all,

 

Photos of the Phantom with panels removed are extremely rare. I will post them here as I find them. Therefore there is not much to go by rather than basic green zinc chromate and silver hoses. Dai 

 

mdd_f-4H_phantom_ii_walkaround_145310_temecula_2010_07.jpg

 

Edited by dai phan
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Hi all,

 

The best tool to place/improve existing sunken rivets is this tool. I place the tip onto the rivets, wiggle around to make sure I am in it, then push down with gentle circular motion. That leaves a nice round indentation rivet. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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