white and yellow resin and styrene

[Dog1]

i am unable to match the mentioned colors having gone over 2 parts of a model where  they meet "TRANS KIT " . The yellow on  styrene is bright  and on the resin section its flat and poor . Is there way of making them match ?     

[phantom]

Paint. Nice coat of whatever colour before you paint the model in its final colours.

[ElectroSoldier]

Primer coat then a base coat to equalise the underlaying colour so the paint can reflect equally 

[Dutch]

Yes! I agree.  I find that a good primer coat followed by a good coat(s) of paint usually covers a multitude of my modelling sins.

Edited August 11, 2021 by Dutch

[Dog1]

so that means primer followed by intended color followed by a second coat , gloss and that's it ?

[ElectroSoldier]

Erm no...

 

A PRIMER coat is used, in model making terms, usually to cover over any problems with the surface, imperfections in the substrate as for instance if you had to sand out some join lines but the majority of the model has a plain smooth surface, then a coat would be required that gives an even surface once dried. They can also be used to to make following layers of paint stick to surfaces which have not been activated (smooth plastic has not been activated while plastic with a rough surface would be activated).
There are several other reasons to use a PRIMER on a model but they are just two that spring to mind.

 

A BASE coat is used, usually, for one of two reasons and those reasons go to the heart of how paints work.

 

A BASE would give a colour that is close to the paints colour but has a surface to which the paint can stick (that could be matt or satin, almost never a gloss).

 

A BASE also brings with it reflective properties that would compliment the paint layer that will go over the top of it.

For instance you might want to have a black coloured BASE layer if you want to paint the model white as this will give a solid white colour, if you give a white coloured BASE layer then the finial effect will be a lot lighter in appearance.

If you think about pre shading. The BASE layers of white and black give the final coat of paint different hues even thought the colour used is the same. That is what a BASE layer is for.

 

The PAINT layer is there to give the colours hue and saturation you want (nb hue can vary with base layer colour)

 

To muddy the waters a little bit.

These days you can get BASE paints whos CARRIER MEDIUM properties are those of what a traditional PRIMER coat would be.

Im thinking of the Vallejo series of coloured "primers". They are actually base paints with primer preperties because you use them to effect the paint layer over the top.

PRIMER paints usually only come in basic colours (black, white, grey) because they have a specific purpose 

[Dog1]

i did use a light color primer on the resin part Mr Surfacer and then Tamiya can yellow but its still not equal to the styrene sprayed part . The sprayed styrene part was with Tamiya can yellow as well . When sprayed on to the resin part it dulls completely .The lighter the color the bigger the difference .

Edited August 16, 2021 by Dog1

[Mfezi]

Can you post a picture? Your descriptions of the problem are not always very easy to follow. The only reason I can think of why a paint would appear duller on one type of material than another is if the surface finish was not the same (in other words, one material is smoother than the other). In that case, a primer followed by light sanding should equalize them. I usually use Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500, but even then I tend to follow with a very light sanding with micro mesh before painting. I tend to go down to at least 6000 grit wet sanded (again, this is after priming and before painting), but my approach may be a bit of overkill. It goes without saying that the same primer be used on both surfaces if you truly want identical results.

[Dog1]

i will prepare close up pics and post  in the next 24 hrs .

 

[Dog1]

pics 

[ElectroSoldier]

Is it the yellow strip at the edge of the engine cover thats a different colour?
 

[Dog1]

yes , thats the after market resin short tail . I did not wash the part as suggested earlier .   

[ElectroSoldier]

If the undercoat colour is the same on both parts then the problem can only be because of the finish of that colour (matt, satin, gloss).

 

The finish of the paint will have an effect on the appearance of the paint to you.
If the surface of the resin part wasnt as glossy (or matt or satin) and smooth as the plastic parts then the "problem" you have will happen. The engine cover appears to be ever so slightly darker.

 

[Dog1]

so if Mr Surfacer white primer was applied no matter what is below it the same paint applied wether same spray can to both or airbrushed to both  parts will be exactly the same ? 

[ElectroSoldier]

It should be yes. The thicker version of their Mr Surfacer should be able to cover the abrasion marks left by activation of the surface and you should end up with a top surface that is equal on both parts.

[Dog1]

thicker version of primer noted . thanks support

[ElectroSoldier]

When you do spray it on dont lay it down thicker than you usually would. the material is by its nature already capable of equalling out the surface, just paint it on as you usually would any primer. All the magic happens underneath where you cant see it.

[Mfezi]

Dog1, apologies for not responding after your pictures, but I think ElectroSoldier covered most of it. In short, if you want to equalize the finish across multiple parts or materials, the secret usually lies in equalizing what goes underneath. Primer is the one half of preparing dissimilar materials, sanding is the other. So, basically, before putting my paint on, I sand with gradually finer sand paper or sanding sticks or sanding sponges. Usually by the time I get to 1200 grit, I will apply a coat of primer (my favourite is Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500). For something with a gloss finish, like most cars, it then pays to wet sand down to 6000 grit or even smoother before applying paint. If you follow that same approach on both plastic and resin, you really should see no difference when you apply the top coat, assuming you apply the top coat in the same way on both parts. At least, this approach has given very consistent results to me, but I admit it is a bit of effort and takes some up-front preparation and patience.