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Best masking tape to use for NMF


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I masked a kit that I painted mr hobby metallic silver using tamiya paper masking tape. I masked off some areas so I can paint duraluminum on some panels. When I removed the tape, there were some areas that were not the same as the original area I painted with silver paint. I already made sure that the tape is not that tacky by placing it on a surface and pulling it out. Did this several times before placing the masking tapes on the model kit

 

thanks

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I also tried using post it notes but still leave marks on the silver NMF

 

alsi tried clear coating with tamiya gloss with mr color leveling thinner

And left to dry for 2 days or more but still leaves a mark on the NMF

Edited by dann
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I would try letting it dry longer than two days. I use Tamiya AS-12 either straight from the spray can or decanted and airbrushed. I typically let it dry at least a week before masking with Tamiya tape that I just slightly detack.  When I’ve tried to mask it after a couple of days it’ll often lift some of the paint, creating the issue you described. Those extra days of drying results in a durable rock hard finish. 

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A question on the Mr Hobby silver that you used: Which one was it:

- Standard Mr Color silver (C08)

- Mr Metal Color Silver (211)

- Mr Color Super Metallic (SM201 or SM206)

 

Among these, the only one that I would expect to have a problem with masking is the Mr Metal Color Silver (211). This is a buffable paint that must be polished and although I have not used them, I suspect masking will be a problem if left unsealed and that any mask has the potential of changing the final effect. On their leaflet, they also warn that you can lose the metallic effect if you seal it, so it is probably not the ideal paint for areas that must be masked afterwards. As I said, I have not used the Mr Metal Color paints, so I don't know much about them except that they are buffable paints and what is written on their leaflet.

 

Now the other paints that I listed above, namely the metallic paints in the standard Mr Color range and the Mr Color Super Metallic paints, should be pretty much bullet proof. In fact, I find they cure tougher than Alclad, so I often paint with the Mr Color paints first and then do the metallic variations with Alclad over the Mr Color paints.

 

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On 8/27/2021 at 8:32 AM, dann said:

Do you guys think pledge floor polish original is better sealer and won’t lift the paint when masked given enough time to dry say 2 days?


I would guess you’ll get the same result, I think the problem is your base coat is still slightly soft/not fully cured , it doesn’t matter what you top coat it with. Any reason not to wait longer?

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16 hours ago, Mfezi said:

 

Now the other paints that I listed above, namely the metallic paints in the standard Mr Color range and the Mr Color Super Metallic paints, should be pretty much bullet proof. In fact, I find they cure tougher than Alclad, so I often paint with the Mr Color paints first and then do the metallic variations with Alclad over the Mr Color paints.

 

I do the same sometimes using Tamiya or Floquil Old Silver as a base. They’re both pretty bullet proof, and then do variations with Alcad over them. 

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That is from the buffable range and it is different from the standard Mr Color or newer Super Metallics paints (as I said, those ranges are very tough). Masking over it is very likely to leave marks unless you seal it. If you don't mind the fact that the lustre will change a little, you could try something like Alclad Aqua Gloss or Tamiya X22 thinned with Leveling Thinner to seal it. However, before doing it, make up a test piece (not on the model) and try it out first to make sure you are happy with the final effect.

Edited by Mfezi
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39 minutes ago, 11bee said:

FWIW, I’ve recently been using AK’s Real Metal.   Very nice finish and also very durable.  

I’ve never tried using acrylic metal finishes that I can think of, maybe Tamiya silver. 

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On 9/2/2021 at 7:04 PM, Charlie D. said:

I do the same sometimes using Tamiya or Floquil Old Silver as a base. They’re both pretty bullet proof, and then do variations with Alcad over them. 

I wish I had a time machine.  I'd go back to the late 90s and stock up on a couple dozen bottles of Floquil Bright Silver lacquer.  That stuff was fantastic.  

 

SN

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12 hours ago, Steve N said:

I wish I had a time machine.  I'd go back to the late 90s and stock up on a couple dozen bottles of Floquil Bright Silver lacquer.  That stuff was fantastic.  

 

SN

Great paints, when they were discontinued I went down to the train shop and got 4 bottles of old silver, bright silver and platinum mist. Still have more than half of that left. I save them for certain projects! 

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On 9/27/2021 at 5:38 AM, TheRealMrEd said:

Parafilm "M" is your friend!  After a slight coating of Alclad II Aqua Gloss, I even use it to mask over applied decals:

 

Before

 

 

After

 

 

Ed

Its good stuff. Its worked for me over Vallejo Metal Color, Mr Hobby Metal Color, Model Master Metalizer and AK Metallics

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