crackerjazz Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 Hi fellas. here's my contribution to the F-16 GB. Block 10 cockpit by ESCI. The box cover is misleading with that big photo of a later model cockpit But the upper photo is what the kit really looks like. I lost the instrument decals and couldn't find anything online. I see there was a 1/12 Verlinden instrument panel film released a long time ago with labels for the switches of the side consoles which the kit doesn't provide but it's long OOP. I contacted a fellow modeler on largescaleplanes who printed his own on clear film and he's helping me out : ) A humbrol tin for reference: The toggle switches look like coneheads : ) I'm sure that was done so the part can slide off the mold easily. Ejection seat is monstrous when you're so accustomed to 1/48 : ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thadeus Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 All You need now is some plastic, good plans and You can do a 1/12 Viper. Nice! Funny there's a Block 40 IP and WAR HUD on the boxart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 21, 2022 Author Share Posted January 21, 2022 (edited) Hi Thadeus : ) That would be something, wouldn't it : ) Ran into my first hitch. The channels are too narrow for the glass to slide through so I had to widen them. I hope I know what I'm doing and not mangling anything. Still learning my way around F-16s : ) Was wondering about the HUD frame being solid blocks instead of those skeletal-frame HUDs on other aircraft but checking reference pics they do look like that. The supplied glass has some tint to it but that's ok, I guess. Now it can slide in.. Also scraped off some material from the front of the alarm panels on the side of the HUD to give the effect of the folded metal shield. Oops...some ejection pin marks to take care of. The glass looks a bit short at the bottom, doesn't it? I can probably try cutting up a CD case to replace it if I have to but it might actually not be too noticeable once everything's slapped together and there's lots of other stuff to look at. Edited January 21, 2022 by crackerjazz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geoff M Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 That looks like a cool kit. Looking forward to the finished product. Geoff M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
habu2 Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 The A-model HUD frames were solid as depicted but the wide groove on the outer faces should not be there. Also the kit depicts the "leading edge" of the frame with a slight kink/corner - it's actually a convex curve from top to bottom. You might be able to address the short glass at the bottom by sanding the leading edge to the proper shape. Jake's "Early Viper" book has some excellent pics, much better than the old Verlinden LockOn book. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 (edited) Thanks, Geoff! : ) Thanks habu2, that Early Viper book looks like a very good reference. The cheapest one I saw was from Reidair itself and second-hand ones were double the price; sent for one right away. I envision more F-16A-related builds. I used to wonder what people see in that plane -- it's really beginning to grow on me. Eliott Bros-made HUD: Pilkington-made HUD: I see what you mean about the shape now. And the Pilkington HUD had those alcohol specs placards which were probably what ESCI thought should have a groove. I do see a slit/opening that runs in the middle of the frame. How I'd love to just scratchbuild the whole thing : ) But, yes, a little sanding could probably do wonders. Edited January 22, 2022 by crackerjazz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
habu2 Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 Yeah when I said it was “solid” I meant it didn’t look like a truss or a space frame. It’s obviously a multi-piece affair. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 Cool, I have never seen one of these. Nice work getting that clear piece to fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 23, 2022 Author Share Posted January 23, 2022 (edited) Thanks, guys! : ) Re-shaped the top and ends of the HUD frame and slotted the middle then filled the groove with Apoxie Sculpt. There's an Aves product that feathers the Apoxie Sculpt really nicely and it doesn't smell at all. It feels almost like water with very slight oily consistency. Strangely, though, I feel the tips of my fingers go slightly numb after feathering the putty. It does say it may be harmful in contact with skin so it's probably best to wear gloves. The numbness is still there after a day. I did wash my hands thoroughly with soap after using the product. Anyway, will observe further. Here's some before and after shots: Edited January 23, 2022 by crackerjazz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 Adding lights to the cockpit would be a cool touch, HINT, HINT. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 (edited) I wish I could pull off something like that, Steve. That would be awesome : ) Gave her a coat of 1500 surfacing primer: And a bit of whtie mottling: Edited January 25, 2022 by crackerjazz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 (edited) Some interesting stuff arrived in the mail today : ) The Jake Melampy Early Viper book I ordered and the instrument panels GregW/largescaleplanes sent : ) I needed the instrument panel because of the missing decals from my kit. As for the side consoles he says he didn't really use them and instead used spare decals from other kits. So I'm still trying to figure out how I could incorporate these into my build. I'm really after those white switch labels that are hard to replicate without decals. They don't come in the kit either so the consoles are just supposed to be painted black without any labels on them. The instruments -- I can use. Just need to figure out how. But I have to make it work unless I could get decals somewhere. One interesting thing I learned from the book was that the coaming takes on a mottled gray/black look after a few years of service. I was on the right path already at the start and shouldn't have covered it with black too much to let more of the mottling show. Anyway, fixed it with some oils.. Edited February 2, 2022 by crackerjazz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr.Happy Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 Great work Crackerjazz! Ya gotta love those ESCI cockpits. It looks like you’ve done some really nice research on this and it’s got me riveted. Keep up your great progress. Mr.Happy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 Thanks, Mr Happy! : ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
habu2 Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 On 2/1/2022 at 6:26 PM, crackerjazz said: ...and the instrument panels GregW/largescaleplanes sent : ) Those are copies of the cockpit layout from the Block 10 Dash 1 manual - ask me how I know.... 😉 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 (edited) Is that a flight manual, habu2? : ) Ok guys, you'll be throwing sticks and stones at me for what I'm about to do. But I have to satisfy my curiosity or I'll go crazy. Just want to find out if this works or not. Because if it does, I might employ the same technique for building other 1/12 cockpits I have in mind. Slathered on some Vallejo white on the back of the film with a razor for an even coat. Nope that doesn't look too even, heheh. Cut off the switches -- maybe I should punch out real discs from styrene for the bottoms. I'm thinking about just printing something on paper but film is better for depicting the glass faces of the instruments. And paper doesn't take to having holes drilled through it too well -- it will just fray. Painting the backs of the film is easier, too, for getting nice bright colors than that which comes out of a printer. This actually might look scratchbuilt in the end but I do like scratchbuilds : ) Edited February 4, 2022 by crackerjazz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 (edited) ..double post Edited February 4, 2022 by crackerjazz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
habu2 Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 45 minutes ago, crackerjazz said: Is that a flight manual, habu2? : ) Why yes, yes it is…. 😊 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted February 5, 2022 Author Share Posted February 5, 2022 Some group build progress: Excising more switches. I found it better to just go around the edge of the switches slowly with a sharp blade until they break off rather than use the razor saw which eats away a good deal of material from the bottom of the switches. I decided to concentrate on building and completing one panel at a time so I can feel that I'm making progress. Doing the jet start panel: I didn't know those white smudges on the side were actually labels. I later stippled some gray paint over them to simulate weathering by mistake. Maybe for future builds I'll try to create my own panels with letters that are more defined. Some of the toggle switches have a helmet-shaped head. Turned some styrene rods on the drill. Also bent some wires for the power switch cage. Gave the toggle switches a lick of paint and weathered the panel a bit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 This is awesome work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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