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ResKit F-111 Cockpits/Escape Capsule


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On 6/17/2022 at 5:52 PM, ElectroSoldier said:

The TP I and TP II inlets are completely different in all but overall shape.

 

The TP II has no splitter, a narrower gap between the inlet and fuselage, 


I thought the TP2 intakes were actually mounted further from the fuselage than TP1.
11.5 inches (TP2) vs c8 inches (TP1) ?

 

Edited by Keith T
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1 hour ago, Keith T said:


I thought the TP2 intakes were actually mounted further from the fuselage than TP1.
11.5 inches (TP2) vs c8 inches (TP1) ?

You're correct. TP I=8.5", TP II=11.5".

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1 hour ago, mrvark said:

You're correct. TP I=8.5", TP II=11.5".

 

So I really need to mount the Dmold intakes c6mm from the HB fuselage sides.... which will take some 2.5mm spacers and probably require some widening of the rear fuselage to blend-in the extra width ?  Challenging !

 

BTW:  I found today that Paragon's closed engine nozzle petals are a drop-in replacement for the open nozzles in the Reskit engines for HB   ;-)

 

Edited by Piker38
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2 hours ago, Piker38 said:

 

So I really need to mount the Dmold intakes c6mm from the HB fuselage sides.... which will take some 2.5mm spacers and probably require some widening of the rear fuselage to blend-in the extra width ?  Challenging !

 

BTW:  I found today that Paragon's closed engine nozzle petals are a drop-in replacement for the open nozzles in the Reskit engines for HB   😉

Here's how I did it (it's a pdf you should be able to download). the thing I don't address here, but you need to pay attention to is to make sure the upper and lower fuselage halves have matching profiles. Inserting the spacers will try to make the bottom half wider than the top half. You'll want to make sure you sand off any excess resin from the outboard portions of the intakes and may need to epoxy the intakes to the fuselage.

 

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4 hours ago, Piker38 said:

 

So I really need to mount the Dmold intakes c6mm from the HB fuselage sides.... which will take some 2.5mm spacers and probably require some widening of the rear fuselage to blend-in the extra width ?  Challenging !

 

BTW:  I found today that Paragon's closed engine nozzle petals are a drop-in replacement for the open nozzles in the Reskit engines for HB   😉

 

Basically yes.
Its not just a matter of replacing the parts like for like because they intakes are so very different from each other.

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7 hours ago, mrvark said:

Here's how I did it (it's a pdf you should be able to download). the thing I don't address here, but you need to pay attention to is to make sure the upper and lower fuselage halves have matching profiles. Inserting the spacers will try to make the bottom half wider than the top half. You'll want to make sure you sand off any excess resin from the outboard portions of the intakes and may need to epoxy the intakes to the fuselage.

 


Thanks for sharing this. 
Time to start work, I think !
 

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, I think I’ve managed to integrate the more widely positioned Dmold intakes into the HB fuselage… just a small slot cut into each side of the lower fuselage required. 

I’ll post images once I’ve actually glued everything in place.

 

Moving onto the wrongly/tapered inner flaps… it looks like their trailing edge is in the correct position(?), so I’m going to try adding extra styrene to the forward edge.


Does anyone have the correct measurements for the chord at each end ?

Or, are the parts in the Paragon set accurate enough be used as a reference ?

 

K

 

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1 minute ago, Keith T said:

Moving onto the wrongly/tapered inner flaps… it looks like their trailing edge is in the correct position(?), so I’m going to try adding extra styrene to the forward edge.


Does anyone have the correct measurements for the chord at each end ?

Or, are the parts in the Paragon set accurate enough be used as a reference ?

Paragon should be good enough

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10 hours ago, mrvark said:

Paragon should be good enough

 

Many thanks - I'll go with that then.  

The parts measure approx 8.1mm tapering to 4.1mm on my Paragon set - which would scale out to c15.3" tapering to c7.7" on the actual aircraft.

Kit parts are c1mm thick, so I'll try adding lengths of styrene strip between actuators and trimming to the correct chord.

What could possibly go wrong ?! :whistle:

K.

 

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On 6/17/2022 at 1:35 AM, A-10 LOADER said:

"One more tidbit I got to thinking about today. When the ordies loaded weapons on a jet, the flaps and slats were retracted and they would stay that way until just before takeoff. So, while having a model with bombs loaded and flaps & slats down with no one in the cockpit may look cool, it is unrealistic... "

 

Good point Jim.

Steve

 

G'day,

 

This was not the case in RAAF practice. Flaps and slats were extended before engine shutdown and remained so during weapons loading and reconfigurations. it was not uncommon to see an unnatended, loaded pig with deployed slats and flaps  during weapons programmes, of course they would also sport an 'ARMED' flag hanging from the pitot cover as well,

 

cheers,

 

Pappy

Edited by Pappy121
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A note of caution when separating the canopy frames from their casting blocks. The edge of the frames are VERY thin and although the blocks don't extend all the way to the edge of the frame, you still need to be very careful when sanding the remains of the block off once you've cut the majority of it off using a razor saw, or you could end up with this:

220702-canopy_framesLR.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Just to give you guys a show of how much of an idiot I am (and apropos of Jim's input above 😄), I've finally got my 1/48 FB-111 Escape Module set from Ukraine yesterday, and was completely appalled watching at the complexity of the building instructions! I think I'm still not up for a set like this. :doh:

Very nice set, tho.

Cheers,

 

Gwen 

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1 hour ago, cruiz said:

I was intrigued when I saw the note indicating the instructions should be downloaded; when I knew it was 16 pages long, I understood why.

 

Now, that's intriguing... :hmmm:

My set came with a printed instructions booklet included. I started shaking in fear on page 4, while I was aboard the commuter home back from work.

Lots of tiny little parts and pieces I know so well they will just end up flying into oblivion (or the carpet monster), the minute I try to bend or place them on the resin.

Cheers,

 

Gwen 

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  • 2 months later...

Just a quick note to draw attention to the message I've just posted in the Buy/Sell section offering some ScaleDown upgrade sets for the Academy F-111 kits... wings, tanks, gear bays & intakes etc...

 

cheers

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On 11/1/2022 at 6:10 PM, Dave Williams said:

Looks like ResKit has released the “late” versions of their F-111C and F-111F cockpits.  Wish I wouldn’t have bought the “early” version, but at the time I ordered, the war was starting and it wasn’t clear what the future availability would be.

 

What exactly are the differences between them? From the photos, it would seem that both 'early' and 'late' cockpits have Pave Tack VID screens so the 'late' one might be the Pacer Strike modification with MFDs?

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On 11/4/2022 at 11:40 AM, ijozic said:

 

What exactly are the differences between them? From the photos, it would seem that both 'early' and 'late' cockpits have Pave Tack VID screens so the 'late' one might be the Pacer Strike modification with MFDs?

 

That is my understanding... but others may be more certain.

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