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I just ordered Two Bobs Grim Reaper Decals, and I was wondering what the best F-15C kit would be to kit for those decals.  The GWH ANG kit looks really good but has a higher price tag.  I am assuming the Hasegawa kit is not a current F-15 and I don't know anything about the Academy kit.

 

Any advice would be great.  

Thanks 

 

Brent 

Edited by eraucubsfan
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Due to its shortcomings in shape, the GWH F-15 kits are highly detailed and have a nice fit, unlike the Hasegawa, which is probably better in terms of accuracy, but the fit and detailling is not up to today´s standard. Especially the joint from wing to fusalage with the Hasegawa kit is a real pain to fit and rescribing the panel lines here is a difficult job and if this is not done properly, the whole appearance of the model is ruined, regardless how accurate the outline is.

 

Since most modellers don’t care much about the problems of the GWH kit, which aren’t glaring ones in either way, in my opinion this one is the first choice of an Eagle single seater.

 

A couple of years ago, I have built a GWH F-15C and I am satisfied with the result. However, my next one could be a kit bashing project of GWH and Hasegawa kit, eventually unless a new and may be more accurate kit from may be Kinetic or Tamiya has been released.

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Tamiya is an option.

But why not the ZM too?

It depends how much the Eagle is loved by the Japanese. If they admire the plane like they did the Eiko amd Phantom then ZM and/or Tamiya will give it a go to produce it. But I am afraid it will take another decade or let’s say that until the last F-15 says bye to Japan.

regarding the best…  not any of the models is best, unfortunately.

Despite the price GWH is a better choice in terms of details. And it still looks an Eagle when finished;)

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1 hour ago, falcon91352 said:

Due to its shortcomings in shape, the GWH F-15 kits are highly detailed and have a nice fit, unlike the Hasegawa, which is probably better in terms of accuracy, but the fit and detailling is not up to today´s standard. Especially the joint from wing to fusalage with the Hasegawa kit is a real pain to fit and rescribing the panel lines here is a difficult job and if this is not done properly, the whole appearance of the model is ruined, regardless how accurate the outline is.

 

Since most modellers don’t care much about the problems of the GWH kit, which aren’t glaring ones in either way, in my opinion this one is the first choice of an Eagle single seater.

 

A couple of years ago, I have built a GWH F-15C and I am satisfied with the result. However, my next one could be a kit bashing project of GWH and Hasegawa kit, eventually unless a new and may be more accurate kit from may be Kinetic or Tamiya has been released.


Todays standards have a model that is the wrong shape.

Some can ignore that, some cant. Cant deny that its there though, its got the detail sure, a price tag too. Its not the best though. Its really good at being the wrong shape though.

 

 

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I'd go with Hasegawa rather than GWH. I was excited when GWH first came out but the thick control surfaces, wrong canopy shape, and posable panels (I like them all closed up) just doesn't do it for me. 

 

I like Hasegawa's simplicity of assembly and I am willing to take my time with the wing joints, vertical stab joints, missing surface details (would add rivets and deeper panel lines), and get AM or use my spares for the ordnance. 

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Actually the Hasegawa F-15C also has its shape issue: the radome is too short by about 1.5mm in 1/48 scale which makes it looks quite odd compare with real life photos.

My project undergoing is:

 

1. Use GWH F-15C kit as base

2. For the wrong cross section canopy, use Falcon 1/48 scale Set No.52: USAF vacuum canopy

    It has F-15 canopy designed for Hasegawa and acutally used Hasegawa part as vacuum mold

    Of course you can also use windshield and canopy parts from Hasegawe F-15 kit, but be aware they are quite thick in side wall which makes very ugly distortion when you look into the cockpit.

3. Regarding the stabilizers with thick edge/wrong reinforcement panel, you can replace them with Quickboost 48293 F-15E Strike Eagle Horizontal Stabilizers(you need to fill the original axle hole on GWH kit and open a new one in the correct position to install those resin stabilizers)

4. If you are a real perfectioner, you can buy Phase Hangar 48081 F-15 Eagle Corrected Seamless Intakes to correct the too narrow intakes in the GWH kit although which will not be so obvious after finishing.

 

Clear above 4 points, you can make your GWH F-15C very close to a perfect one.

 

My 2 cents.

Edited by haneto
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Only the very first version as of F-15B/D kit has the shape issue which has been corrected with new tools.

So if you buy any other variant kit, you all get the renewal parts, no risk.

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Well, if we talk about the accuracy of a subject unfortunately almost no 1/48 F-15 kit is a match to the real one. (Like none of the rest of the models of other subjects)

And in a different point of view may be GWH kit is the best solution.

Are all the inaccuracies we talk about GWH easily spotted on a finished model? I am afraid not. So, on a model that basic modelling skills are applied all might be considered fine. 

Well, in my humble opinion the thickness of the trailing edges is not an inaccuracy, it is just another point to be solved by the basic modelling skill. (And compared to the new Revell 1/72 F-15E kit it will be much more easier.)

On the other hand there is one major mistake where majority of the manufacturers miss. I can not call it inaccuracy since there seems no intention of attention to be applied on that area; the engine intakes! 

While the Eagle is resting the intakes rest in an up position. And for that to catch you do not make nano-fine calculations. Just compare two pictures of a finished model and a parked F-15.

The Hasegawa kit fails on this area unfortunately. The intakes follow the natural line of the fuselage.

For me this is something more important compared to the inaccuracies we always talk that really needs a well-trained eye with nano-fine calculations.

(Same goes for the leading edge flaps of F-16 in this respect)

Or the ailerons. Very rarely they seem to be in the neutral position in the pictures when the Eagle is resting. And you know well the reason; no power on hydraulics, the gravity etc.

Again, Hasegawa fails on this area.

Regarding these two areas I would consider to get the GWH at first and Academy in second hand (ailerons are easier to be dealt with than the engine intakes)

Please do not remind the speedbrake well. All can be omitted by simply gluing it closed.

Or the wheels in this aspect.

Despite all the complaints that I mentioned I still like to have the Hasegawa. I am not a master concerning the ability in producing new parts, recreating the existing ones, applying all the visual effects etc.
But I am satisfied with myself as long as I can follow the basic rules of modelling.

For this I still go with Hasegawa which will put me to the solution faster compared to other new products; despite its age!

At the end all we want is to have a finished model on our table, ain’t it?

Arkut

 

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I agree with your analysis.  It seems some people can only build models like you build a 500 piece puzzle.  Just put the parts together like the instructions show.  If a part does not fit right the kit is inaccurate.  Nobody talks about doing some modelling.  Fixing things that can be fixed.  Thick edges... thin them.  Maybe I am to easy to please.  

 

Geoff M

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18 hours ago, clumsy said:

Well, if we talk about the accuracy of a subject unfortunately almost no 1/48 F-15 kit is a match to the real one. (Like none of the rest of the models of other subjects)

And in a different point of view may be GWH kit is the best solution.

Are all the inaccuracies we talk about GWH easily spotted on a finished model? I am afraid not. So, on a model that basic modelling skills are applied all might be considered fine. 

Well, in my humble opinion the thickness of the trailing edges is not an inaccuracy, it is just another point to be solved by the basic modelling skill. (And compared to the new Revell 1/72 F-15E kit it will be much more easier.)

 

 

I never said they werent fixable. I just said in my opinion its not as great as all that considering whats possible today.

I found the canopy as noticeable as the engine bulges on the original Academy release of the F-15.

 

If all prices were equal then the GWH would be the best. But the prices of them are not all equal, the GWH kit is double the price of some and triple others.

Thats my only real problem with it, not the kit per say.

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If scale isn't mentioned on ARC, it's a safe bet it's 1:48 that's being discussed ...

Sure it's possible that it could be 1:32 or 1:72 but ... Ah,  who am I kidding, it's 1:48 ...

 

-Gregg

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  • eraucubsfan changed the title to 1/48 Best F-15C
On 5/31/2022 at 2:23 PM, falcon91352 said:

This is true, but the GWH kit has thick leading and trailing edges on the wings and horizontal stabilizers and a too wide cross section of the canopy.

 

Thought the issue with regard to the too wide cross section of the canopy on the 1/48 GWH F-15C kit had been solved by the Fairy-Hobby correction set? :hmmm: 

Well, I hope it did.

Cheers everyone,

 

Gwen

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4 minutes ago, Gwen Phoenix said:

 

Thought the issue with regard to the too wide cross section of the canopy on the 1/48 GWH F-15C kit had been solved by the Fairy-Hobby correction set? :hmmm: 

Well, I hope it did.

Cheers everyone,

 

Gwen

Indeed but unfortunately currently rarer than hens teeth.

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42 minutes ago, falcon91352 said:

Yes, the Fairy canopy adressed this issue, but I was told from someone who used it, that a significant yellowing effect in the clear resin occured a short time after installation.

I was not aware of that issue, abandoning my efforts obtaining any Fairy set right now for F-15 or Su-27. I'll gladly live with the shortcomings of the GWH kit (or Academy Su-27) instead of having to deal with yellowing clear parts. Yellowing clear parts are more of a deal breaker than shape issues IMHO. Not that it matters to me anymore but are you sure clear parts are resin, not vacuum formed?

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