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TAMIYA SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE MK.I 1/48


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1 hour ago, barkin mad said:

I am aware the of the post war roundel colours, however, this may say otherwise for prewar use, certainly brighter colours were used on the 'tween the wars silver biplanes, Gloster supposedly painted all the Hurricanes it built in brighter/lighter pre-war roundel colours. Pic 1 shows a Battle trainer in Canada. Pic 2 is a pre-war Spitfire, which probably is in the duller colours, also shows the Dark Earth quite well.

 

At the end of the day unless you have a colour pic of your chosen subject, or were there, no one can prove you wrong & it's your choice & model to do it your way.

 

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Thank you so much. I can tell you are an authority on the colors and I cannot thank you enough. Dai 

 

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11 hours ago, barkin mad said:

Why thank you. Happy to help. There are more knowledgeable people out there who know more than me re colours though, it's just what I have picked up along the way.

 

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Do you think the color of the dark earth called out by Eduard (Mr Color C369 ARF Dark Earth) is correct? It does not seem brown enough from the photos and builds on the Net. Dai 

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I would tend to agree with you, it doesn't seem brown enough. I think it needs to be slightly lighter & browner. Below is a pic of some Dark Earths against a proper paint chip (not my work btw)

 

comparison3

 

A is Tamiya Flat Earth XF-52 (too red btw)

B is Gunze Aq H72 (Apparently this is the old version it probably has changed & hence may not match that well now)

C is a mix of Tamiya 1  pt XF-72, 1 pt XF-49 & 1 pt XF-55 (too light)

D is a mix Tamiya 2 pts Khaki XF-49 & 1 pt XF-52 (not bad)

E is Tamiya XF-81 Dark Green (Just for fun & good match btw)

 

It would seem for you could be option B is the best out of the bottle/jar or option D. I would not stress about it too much, thousands of a/c were painted w/DE, they would not have all been the exact same colour.

 

I have also learned that AK Interactive has a reasonable match & there is also Humbrol 29 (I know you don't mention or use these but am including for info.)

 

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Edited by barkin mad
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hello,

 

If you wonder what the heck is going on with this project, rest assured it will be finished. I am working toward completion of the Accurate Miniature P-51A and the cannon version then on with this  project. Dai 

Edited by dai phan
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello all,

 

While waiting for the flap set to arrive from CZ for my Accurate Miniature P-51A, I started working on this project again. To my dismay the CMK Spitfire Mk I engine kit designed for the older Tamiya version does not fit on the newer release. The CMK engine bulk head is about 1.0 mm larger in width. Shall I wait till someone makes the engine kit for the new Tamiya release or buy the old version and be done with it? I await your replies. Dai 

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Hello all,

 

After much thinking, I am going to build the earlier version as I already have the engine sets. The earlier version is very simple, has some accuracy issues but I would hate for the engines to go unused. When i go online to read the reviews, it is interesting how it has 5 pages of the aircraft history and one paragraph of the kit's build! Dai

 

PS: But before I commit to this kit, I am going to see if I can modify the firewall to make it fits with the newer version as a last ditch effort. 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Hello all,

 

Working on the older version now. The fire wall fits well to the kit. Comparison indicates the new version is about 1 mm less in the cross sectional width. This kit was released in 1993 in the mist of Tamiya trying to compete with Hasegawa's releases. And as for the rush the kit was not refined as it could be and had some accuracy issues as reported on the Net. Today with Tamiya's recent releases like 1/48 F-4B, P-38 and the new tooling Spitfire Mk 1 they are running away from the pack and nobody can catch them. This kit has very few parts so it should finish very quickly. Dai 

 

PS: When you remove the casting from the fire wall, cut at least 3 mm away from the line. If you cut at the line you will separate the firewall in half. You can see how thin the bottom part is.  And I already left 2mm of material behind the bulk head. 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Howdy all...

 

Painted the side walls and now ready to close the fuselage. This kit is 26 years older than my intended build but still a nice kit. In fact as an old man like me I like kits that I can finish within a month rather than 3 months like my Eduard Mustang with the engine kit. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Greetings,

 

A little progress tonight. I really hope someone will make an engine set for the new Tamiya Spitfire as the new tooling is significantly a HUGE improvement over the 26 years old tooling. Nevertheless it is still a nice kit by any standard. Dai 

 

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 Hello veryone...

 

Completed the main frame painting. I use the Top Notch vinyl mask and worked very well. It has low tack but as a precaution I press against my shirt a few times to reduce the chance of peeling off the paint. The Mr Color C361/369 do not have as good adhesion like other MC line that I have used so I must be extra careful. I do not like mixing Tamiya colors as called out so I use the colors recommended in the Eduard Mk I kit. Comparing with rhe actual photos revealed the mask is pretty accurate. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Hello all,

 

Adding some details to the engine and did some touch ups. Yes these are re-usable as the masks are strong and the adhesive does not lose the strength after repeated applications. For hard line camo I cannot think of anything else better. After painting the ridges between the colors can be even out with some mild sanding of a well worn 3000 grit Tamiya sponge sander. Someone on the Net suggested using mesh cloth of 12,000 grit. One thing I like about the mask is the accuracy when compared to the actual photos. Dai

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Hi all,

 

Working on the engine compartment for tonight. The CMK engine kit while detailed is not very accurate as the engine supporting braces are at the wrong angulation and must be corrected. Dai 

 

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Now focus on finishing the engine. Chips and dings will be applied next when everything is done assembling. I do not like the handle plane with the chips as I tend to smear the silver pigments everywhere. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Hello all,

 

A problem I need to report here. After I applied the clear coat , alligator skin affect is seen only over the decals and no where else. I have used the Internediate Gauzzy Agent for 7 years and now this ! I solved the problem by sanding over the affected area with 2000 grid sandpaper very carefully not affecting the ink of the decals. Then lightly mist each coat with sanding in between until the alligator effect is gone.  Then flat coat overall. Unless you look very carefuly you cannot tell there was a problem. I really do not like to flat coat as the real planes have some kind of shine to it rather than dead flat. But this is the only way to solve the alligator skin issue. Dai

 

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Edited by dai phan
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