Dutch Posted July 1, 2022 Share Posted July 1, 2022 (edited) Okay, I am now starting my Roden 1/144 #349 RC-135V/W RIVET JOINT build thread. I thought that the "In Progress Pics" sub-forum would be a better place for this thread. To see my initial impressions, see my thread in the Jet Modeling sub-forum. The first thing to fix is to remove the ugly hump for the horizontal stabilizer mounting area. I made mention of this in my initial impressions. It appears to be bigger in those pictures than it really is upon closer inspection. I thought to carefully cut the flat area of the mound away, then grind down the remaining sides, widen the hole to accept the flat area, place a backing inside the fuselage and then fit the flat area into the hole, putty, sand and rescribe to taste. After trimming some .04 platicard to act as a backing plate. I am now reconsidering. I may just drill a hole to accept the horiz stab and grind away the existing plastic to get down to the .04 plasticard backing. 1. First thing I noticed on removing the fuselage sides from the sprues was a little bit of flash on the inside of the cockpit combing. It proved rather stubborn to just flapping back and forth to remove, so I carefully trimmed it with an X-acto knife, then sanded the edges flush. 2. The other thing I noticed is that the stbd tail trailing edge is a little short. I am not sure if this is intentional, but it would then leave a very sharp trailing edge for the top of the vertical stabilizer, so maybe it is okay. 3. The inside edges of the tail halves. The horizontal stab mounting area is not that deep and I think I can just fill the area with .04 plasticard. 4. The horiz stab mounting area from the outside, in comparison with the similar area from the Minicraft EC-135C kit. 5. Bad photo. I was holding the fuselage with my right hand, holding my cell phone camera with my left hand, trying to use my nose to push the shutter button. LOL! The mound is not so tall as previously thought. Also, it seems to be angled so as to provide dihedral to the stabs. I will make sure to include a slight angle of the finished mounting area for the dihedral. 6. I always overcut my plasticard, then trim and sand to shape with a rough/medium sanding stick. 7. .04 plasticard backing plates trimmed and super-glued in place. Edited July 2, 2022 by Dutch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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