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Revell A-6E Intruder rescribe


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Hi, I'm constantly inspired by wardog's super-detailed build which is a rescribed Revell-Monogram A-6E TRAM so I'm going to try and do the same -- the rescribing portion, I mean : ).  I also got to thinking about the various kits in my stash after reading Dai Phan's thread.    They won't be built because I'm so pampered by modern kits with perfect engraved panel lines : )   I did think about just getting the Hobby Boss kit but that will kill my purpose.   

 

This isn't a full build -  I just want to practice and get better at rescribing to hopefully pick up some techniques along the way.    I might also learn a thing or two about the Intruder which I've never built before (I did a Matchbox 1/72 Prowler as a kid so I have some idea about the shape).   The way they describe it as a drumstick is so true -- maybe that was what turned me off about building another Intruder-shaped plane, lol.   I've grown to love the shape over the years, though, and have gotten jealous of other people's builds.

 

I actually started rescribing a couple of Harriers some time back using carving tape but gave up when the panels became smaller.   Not sure if the same thing will happen here but hopefully one gets better over time.  Another question that popped into my mind is how long does it really take to rescribe this thing.   If I built it as is, would I end up wondering how I should've just put in the time and rescribed it first?    I'm going to do this on my spare time when I need a break from my other builds but I'll be summing up the time I spend doing just the rescribing and see what the total time is like.      I haven't really looked at the canopy yet -- but hopefully that part doesn't have raised panel lines or that will be the horror of horrors.

 

Armed with a pin on a pin vise I began the journey by applying the technique of scribing along the panel line and sanding it down after.    I learned that I'm terrible at this method  -- my pin just wanted to derail.  Will fill those gashes later.  

 

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I then went back to using carving tape.   It's transparent which helps in placement.    After 2 hours I've managed to rescribe some panel lines on the tail.   Yay! (i think : )    I used some real photos and Hobby Boss Intruder photos online as reference to see what needs to be corrected as well.  I won't be going all out, though.   Some of the harder ones I'll probably just skip over and just sand down the raised panel line.    I'm trying to make this as fun as possible so I don't end up giving up : )

 

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One thing I noticed is the Intruder is huge.  I thought it was as small as an A7 but it's actually almost as long as an F-14 : )   The 1/48 model commands attention.

Edited by crackerjazz
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  • You can actually get a decent model out the Monogram kit! I did it with mine, and was inspired by Elmo´s build too!    even tho I got a decent model, It's really far from the model I was inspired by!  Anyway have fun!!!
  •                                                  intruder.thumb.jpg.6e6f623c3cd0c26bf15b5351e7225539.jpg
Edited by kike
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Yes I rescribed the whole model! not easy, but I pulled that out, it'll be easy for you! the rivets were made with a needle in a pin vise! lots of little holes heheh, I have pics of the whole process if you ever need something!

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  • crackerjazz changed the title to Revell A-6E Intruder rescribe

Hi Mr Happy, thanks! : )   I've never heard of it called by that name before, but I looked it up and you're right : )  I'm looking at more pics of the tadpole and it's really starting to look like a mean war machine with an imposing stance, even when just tied down on a carrier deck with its wings folded.  Just an update to the scribing work -- I didn't think it would be this difficult especially since some areas are hard to reach for sanding like those around the intakes or those that are too curved, but I'm chipping away at it...

Edited by crackerjazz
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On 11/3/2022 at 11:16 PM, crackerjazz said:

 

One thing I noticed is the Intruder is huge.  I thought it was as small as an A7 but it's actually almost as long as an F-14 : )   The 1/48 model commands attention.

 

These are 1/72nd (Though It is a Prowler).

So you can judge the size compared to other ones.

 

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Edited by AV O
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One thing I have found that helps me out a lot when rescribing is to use a good made for use scriber. I like using the mrp scribers. They come in different sizes. They have a needle scriber, a square tip scriber, and a v shaped one. I have heard really good things about the Tamiya scribers, but they are a bit too expensive for me. 

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Hi AV O, that's quite a collection : )   The Prowler does look huge compared to the the others.  Hi Caudleryan, gotta to look those up, thanks.  I know I have a Tamiya scriber somewhere -- if only I could find it.   I faintly recall it had sort of a triangular tip.

 

Some progress shots.  It does look better at normal viewing distance.   Close-up pics magnify the slip-ups too much : )

 

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I like the long straight lines - I wish they were all like that : )   

 

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Box shapes are still ok as long as they're in open spaces.  It's when they are in really tight spaces and curved surfaces that I begin scratching my head but I try to do one line at a time.   My biggest issue is trying to see where the lines are once I've sanded them down.

 

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And there are times too where protruding details give me trouble.  The needle kind of goes around them and throws off the line.  Will have to correct them later.

 

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I'm not sure how I'll be doing those tiny access panels and latches yet, but they look like trouble.    The smaller they go the meaner they get : (

 

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I started using the panel line accent color to check how my scribed lines are but noticed this warning.  I hope it doesn't lead to cracks on the model later on.

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3 hours ago, crackerjazz said:

Hi AV O, that's quite a collection : )   The Prowler does look huge compared to the the others.  Hi Caudleryan, gotta to look those up, thanks.  I know I have a Tamiya scriber somewhere -- if only I could find it.   I faintly recall it had sort of a triangular tip.

 

Some progress shots.  It does look better at normal viewing distance.   Close-up pics magnify the slip-ups too much : )

 

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I like the long straight lines - I wish they were all like that : )   

 

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Box shapes are still ok as long as they're in open spaces.  It's when they are in really tight spaces and curved surfaces that I begin scratching my head but I try to do one line at a time.   My biggest issue is trying to see where the lines are once I've sanded them down.

 

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And there are times too where protruding details give me trouble.  The needle kind of goes around them and throws off the line.  Will have to correct them later.

 

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I'm not sure how I'll be doing those tiny access panels and latches yet, but they look like trouble.    The smaller they go the meaner they get : (

 

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I started using the panel line accent color to check how my scribed lines are but noticed this warning.  I hope it doesn't lead to cracks on the model later on.

 

The smaller hatches etc can be best done using a scribing template. 

 

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Back in the day I used my trusty drafting eraser template:

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Hello, Kike, just ran across your A-6 build; you're off to a great start! I'm glad my build was able to inspire you, this old kit is by no means an easy build. However, I'm confident you'll be able to pull off an outstanding build. Scribing is difficult at first, but if you keep at it, you'll get good really quick. Like anything else, it takes practice. I look forward to seeing more updates soon, good luck.

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Hi wardog, did you mean me?  : )    Thanks for looking in. : )   I hope I can do her justice.  Can't wait for the templates to get here.   I have a newfound respect for rescribers out there.  It's a real exercise in patience. And self restraint, as there's a tendency to keep scoring the line once you get it established.  One funny observation, too, is I tend to hold my breath while scoring, like it's going to help prevent the needle from slipping, lol.  I need to learn to relax : )

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Hello, crackerjazz, my apologies, I must have focused on the last post prior to mine and believed this was Kike's build. Again, great job you're doing on this old kit. Scribing requires all that you mentioned, and more. I too, tend to hold my breath at times when scribing difficult areas as even the slightest motion of your beathing can be disruptive. With practice, you'll eventually figure out what tools work best for you to achieve the desired results. Everyone is different but the following seems to work best for me:

 

1.) There's a plethora of scribing tools available on the market, however, a simple sewing needle chucked in a pin vice is all I use. I have 3 needles that vary in width, and I'll use the one I believe works best for the size panel line I'm scribing. I also exclusively use the same tool for duplicating fastener holes. You just have to sand the raised ridge that develops when poking holes in plastic.

2.) I never scribe by running the needle along existing "raised" panel lines, way too much room for error for my taste. If I'm okay with the factory panel line location, I sand it away until It's all gone yet still somewhat visible where it used to be, then scribe along the old location. Also, I use Dymo Tape for 90% of all the lines I scribe.

 

Hope this helps a bit. Good luck going forward.

 

-Elmo

Edited by wardog
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The thing about modelling is that some things work for some modellers and some just don´t!! what will work for you is about trying. I don't have Elmo´s skills to make a line without a guide line, and dymo tape is really hard to get here. but I would listen to him...

 

  Now I get why rescribing was so exhausting!! LOL, I hold my breath too!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for the tips and encouragement, guys! : )   I got the templates and tried them out.   How do you use these things in tight spaces and around curves, lol : )

 

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I was comparing the piano hinge templates to those on the intruder and they were still too big so I used the one for vertical lines/vents.   I had to close my eyes and cut up a section, though.   There was just no way I could use the whole template as is because of the curvature of the hull or some raised details that were in the way.  I also had to block off a portion of it to get the length I need.

 

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I just bridged the gaps with broken horizontal lines to create the piano hinge.

 

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I probably could have centered it a bit more between the edges of the hatch, but I think that should work.  Maybe I'll just go for shorter vertical lines next time.  

 

Edited by crackerjazz
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Nice job, crackerjazz! Breaking sections off a template is what you have to do sometimes to get into tight spaces, I've done it many a time. The one tip I forgot to mention is that when scribing for the first time, as was the case with my A-6, I started with all the bottom sections as they won't normally be seen. The learning curve is short so by the time I was done with the undersides I was kinda ready for the upper surfaces. The smart thing to do is practice on scrap plastic but I'm not that smart so I used my model as the test mule. Good luck with the rest of the build.

 

-Elmo

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For tight spotsI used narrow strips of dymo tape, IMHO is easier to get in place and you don't cut your templates, but that's me, in a small town in Guatemala, so everything is expensive here and hard to get, anyway your model is off to a great path for what I can see!!

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Looks like You're doing some pretty good job. Crazy, yes. But good too!

For long straight lines I use a tape measure cut up to pieces of different lenght. Might come in handy when doing the upper fuselage lines.

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Thanks, guys! : )     Still chipping away : )  I try to do a couple lines or panels every day to make some headway without my eyes and upper back hurting.  And strangely I'm not too worried about making mistakes anymore knowing they can be easily fixed with Tamiya Easy-sanding CA glue which is really easy to sand down.  One other thing I found is that I can use the technique of scribing along the raised panel lines first but only as long as I keep the pressure very lightly at first and trace slowly.  The only disadvantage I see is that you're tracing along the sides of the raised panel line so hatches may end up becoming bigger or smaller depending on which side you trace.

 

One question, guys -- I tried not to do the lower or upper panel lines yet as they might not mate correctly when the fuselage halves are joined together.   I guess that means I have to do the cockpit and close up the fuselage halves first?   

 

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I gave the cockpit a lick of black paint -- will follow up with gray.   I'm surprised at the amount of detail.    There are 2 instrument panels included in the kit and the instructions say this is the TRAM one, but all the pics I see online look like the other one.   I've read the BN sticks his head in a shroud so maybe the one on the left is correct for the TRAM?

 

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I lost the BN's stick -- will have to fashion something out of sprue.    Will also need to do something about the throttle that looks like Patrick starfish's head.

Edited by crackerjazz
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