Janissary Posted December 23, 2022 Share Posted December 23, 2022 (edited) My next build will hopefully be a 1/48 CF-104 using Kinetic's F-104G. I am thinking Turkish AF in SEA colors, something along these lines: I've been fiddling with this kit for the last couple months. I've found it to be a very enjoyable kit thus far. This is AMMO's boxing which contains a great set of instructions and decals. Working on part cleaning, surface prep and minor assemblies. I am deepening all rivets and panel lines, which will take a lot of time. For the rivets, I am trying to mimic rivets that fade in and out, so in several places I am creating discontinuous rivet lines. Edited March 6 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted December 23, 2022 Author Share Posted December 23, 2022 (edited) Using a paper pattern to create radially even holes on drop tank caps. Since these pictures, I am toying around with the idea of increasing the number of rivets, so this may change. I am also trying a trick I found on YT. The pull handles using a single wire. Painting each half in yellow and black. Then twisting. Works alright. I have found a few extra tricks that helps, but I can detail them if there is interest. Edited July 19, 2023 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BastianD Posted December 23, 2022 Share Posted December 23, 2022 Nice progress on the Staf! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ichitoe Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 Interesting approach for the pull handles. Gonna give that a try. Great progress so far. Look forward to your build. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
a4s4eva Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 Nice work so far Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted December 28, 2022 Author Share Posted December 28, 2022 Thank you all. In my earlier post above about the ejection seat pull handles: I have made small modifications since then, and have settled on 24 gauge nickel wire, painted both black and yellow with Testors enamel paint, then brush painted with diluted clear Elmer's glue to guard against chipping. Also working on surface prep. Just wanted to share that things get quite ugly with all the carving and deepening. I tend to do this type of deepening in all my models to make sure surface details look consistent. I use a red marker to indicate lines I have already deepened. Blue is for boo-boos that need fixing. Next step is Bondo for the repairs and more detailing. Lines and rivets being deepened: I have used only these two tools on this model so far. The razor saw is from Tamiya and is excellent for straight lines: All the protruding plastic sanded smooth with Micromesh 1500 under thinly running water: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 More work on the zipper: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Solo Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 Great F-104. What can you say about fitting of that kit? I am thinking about build of that model. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 It's hard to describe but: - Better than any hasegawa model I have built. - Being in the Gold series, significantly better than Kinetic's old kits. - It's a simple kit, not many parts to count, builds up quickly - Surface details and much finer than Kinetic's old kits. But I still deepened all rivets and panel lines to make them sharper and more consistent. - A notch below Tamiya F-16's fit. So definitely not as good as Tamiya F-14, F-4, F-35, which I rate to be to better than Tamiya F-16 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thadeus Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 I like how the cockpit came out - the seat is amazing. But I love the exhaust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Solo Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 18 hours ago, Janissary said: It's hard to describe but: - Better than any hasegawa model I have built. - Being in the Gold series, significantly better than Kinetic's old kits. - It's a simple kit, not many parts to count, builds up quickly - Surface details and much finer than Kinetic's old kits. But I still deepened all rivets and panel lines to make them sharper and more consistent. - A notch below Tamiya F-16's fit. So definitely not as good as Tamiya F-14, F-4, F-35, which I rate to be to better than Tamiya F-16 Thank you. So I suppose it is not so bad idea to buy and build that kit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 It's been a while since I updated this thread, but I am onto painting and weathering now. I can summarize it as: Surfacer 1200, Gunze stainless steel, airbrush hairspray, draw camo lines, spray the lines with Tamiya Nato black, free-hand the base colors, marble the base colors with lighter and darker tones, start light chipping to give it a weathered look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Hey, J, everything looks so good!... especially the weathering. I just checked your build from the beginning, and wondered about something, as I kinda try to do the same thing nowadays. So, what's the story about the ejection pull handles - about the first pictures where you paint the wire - do you use just a single wire and paint it differently on both sides, then just wist it (the single wire), or is it just the picture that includes one of the wires - i.e. they are two wires - one painted in yellow and one in black, and you twist them together afterwards. Also, what kind of wire it is - how to you manage to keep the paint staying on it instead of cracking as soon as you start twisting the wire, if it is a wire? Thx 🙂 Thremendous build, again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 Thank you. It's a single wire, 26ga. A picture is up earlier. I paint the two sides of the wire in two colors, then twist it slowly using the drill. I've never liked the braided appearance of two parallel wires twisted together. I got the idea from here: Yes. Chipping is a concern. I tried enamels, acrylics, dipping them in future etc. They all eventually crack once you start making the small loops. I have not tried lacquer paint, that will likely work best. Also, next time I do it, I will work the bare wire a bit by twisting back and forth, looping, bending, stretching prior to painting. Not sure if that will help but a part of me thinks it will. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Yep, 10x much. That's actually the video where i saw the basics. But now realize its just a single wire,painted differently on both sides. I'm gonna try it with a thicker one,for 1/32, and hope it will work like a charm. 🙂 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Precision modeling at its best! Great work! Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scooby Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Excellent build, love the pull handle technique. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted March 6 Author Share Posted March 6 (edited) Thank you all. A small update on where it is. Fellow modelers reminded me that only the top left and bottom right wings had the roundels, so I had to remove two: Getting ready for the pitot, and wing tanks: Edited March 6 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phantom Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 Looks BEYOND great. Question, I am not sure if the ejection seat is right. When we sent our Starfighters to Turkey they had the other ejection seat type. Its possible Turkey retro-fitted the Martin Bakers but I didnt think they had. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted March 6 Author Share Posted March 6 52 minutes ago, phantom said: Looks BEYOND great. Question, I am not sure if the ejection seat is right. When we sent our Starfighters to Turkey they had the other ejection seat type. Its possible Turkey retro-fitted the Martin Bakers but I didnt think they had. Thank you. I hope to finish it soon and plan to share more pics then. I think you are right about the seat. I started this with no real background in CF-104s, and in my references could to tell what type of seat it uses. But recently I came across a pic of CF-104 62-786 where the red headrest and no pull handles, which tells me it uses the Lockheed style seat. I am passed the point of fixing it as I use the ejection rail already, but you are right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gwen Phoenix Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 On 12/23/2022 at 5:26 PM, Janissary said: Hi Jan, Nice build you're working on. Thanks a lot for the tip on the ejection seat handles! I'll give it back to you; HIQ Parts is your friend for this type of work. Check it out. Cheers, Gwendoline Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted March 7 Author Share Posted March 7 18 hours ago, Gwen Phoenix said: Hi Jan, Nice build you're working on. Thanks a lot for the tip on the ejection seat handles! I'll give it back to you; HIQ Parts is your friend for this type of work. Check it out. Cheers, Gwendoline I'd never seen that before, thank you. The smallest size looks a bit larger than what I would normally use this for, but there might be smaller versions of this too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gwen Phoenix Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 22 minutes ago, Janissary said: The smallest size looks a bit larger than what I would normally use this for, but there might be smaller versions of this too. Jani, There's no, unfortunately. But with the smallest size you can always use a brass, plastic or stainless steel 2mm outside diameter tube which inside diameter is smaller than that, in order to slide a smaller size rod inside. Albion Alloys have a great range of tubes with the different ODs/IDs. I've once seen Nigel from Nigel Modelling Bench on YouTube use each of the sizes supported by this tool with rods which had smaller ID than them in order to drill smaller sizes of rods with even the smaller drill bits. If I can find that video, I'll post it here for you. This one's even a great tool for strenghtening plastic undercarriage legs with metal rods. Cheers, Gwen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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