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1/72 Modelcollect B-2A

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1-3.thumb.jpeg.b049020028248d5a0894b10627736a02.jpeg Colargol. I like the improvements you did on the control surfaces. But I decided the outboard edge of the rudder had to be very close to a 90 degree corner.  I wasn't able to see that with the original Modelcollect rudders no matter how I positioned them.

rudder line.jpeg

newyork rudder sq.jpeg



Edited by OldRoadRacer
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One more time, be carreful to the geometry. If you are not in a perpendicular projection, the angle measurements will be wrong. According to Wikipedia, the angle is 35° between an imaginary line perpendicular to the nose and the longitudinal axis. Therefore, the angle of the nose should be 110° (180° - 2x35°). On the kit, I measure  between 112 and113° so it is not that wrong. On this point, Modelcollect kit is not that bad (the Testor seems to be between 110° and 111°).



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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)



I am starting the external painting 😉

I decided to start with the metallic gaz exhausst. After several layer of Tamiya gloss black (due to re-sanding/re-puttying process to improve the surface quality), I started with several mixes of Vallejo Metal Color. The best liquid to dilute seems to be the car windshield liquid (with other liquid, including Tamiya X-20A, I have a formation of flake). 


I have also painted several other places in black (yellows arrows) because there are to lozange apertures in the fuselage. I have also filled the small buble holes in the Tamiya putty with quite-undiluted Tamiya paint that I have gently sanded afterwards (green arrows). 


The color of the external lips of the exhaust is a little bit different.




Then I put some colors, by using very diluted acrylics (Gunze of Tamiya), using red ochre, grey and black. The external lip is protected to receive only black color.


After that, I sanded a little the external lip (using a 10000 sanding sponge - pink arrow) and put other layers of very diluted brown and black.








I will now start the long masking process ...





Edited by colargol
I had written X-22A, it is X-20A actually ...
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  • 3 weeks later...



I follow with the painting of the belly of the beast.


First step: the masking of the bays. I have tried several technics. Generally, I put a piece of masking tape on the interior side of the bay, then I fill the inner part, either with masking tape (red arrows), or with a piece of paper of the adapted size and shape (pink arrows), of with pieces of paper towel that I humidified later with water (orange arrow). In each case, I perfect the hermeticity with Ammo Mig liquid masking. I have also "masked" the acces hatch with the acces hatch door (that I will not use - black arrow). 


I first began with a layer of dark grey (H401 Gunze) and masked some lozange zones (purples arrow). Then I have followed with layers of "clear grey" (a mix of 3/4 of Gunze H301 and 1/4 of Tamiya XF-66, diluted with 95° alcool).




Then, the masking process continues ... I am using New Ware kabuki masks. Their quality is excellent ! I have used a lot of Eduard masks (for canopy), and everytime, I have to cut the masking tape because it is still connected to the rest of the sheet. No problem with the New Ware ones ! They detached perfectly. A real pleasure to use !


I put some homemade ones too, using Tamyia masking tape band and Aizu ones. I am using this image as a reference.




I have modified a little bit the New Ware masks to fit with the aircraft I am bulding.

Below, this is the next step with the radar aera painted with a bluish shade (using H56 intermediate blue in the grey mix - white arrows). the rear radar area will be in a darker shade. Some H308 (light grey) was used around the engine bays. I have also noticed that modelcollect didn't align the engine bays with the "V" of the jet exhaust ... I have stop to count the errors on this kit ...




Eventually, this is the final colors. I have used a more purple shade for the control surfaces. The inside of the crocodile rudder is painted with a mix of Tamiya zinc chromate (XF-4) and Gunze radome (H318) at 50/50 (green arrows)




I had some trouble with the Ammo Mig liquid mask ... it is very easy to use and to remove, but it seems it has "attacked" the paint ... (white arrows)






so, be carreful using it (maybe you have to wait longer than me to put it on a paint layer. I think I waited several days anyway ... but for improving the waterproofing of a surface of masking tape, it is perfect).


Then, I masked again (again !!!!) the rear part of the engine bay to represent oil/smoke streaks. And this is it ! I have some parts to rework with a fine brush, but so fare, I am quite happy 😉

Nevertheless, I tend to thing that the H301 is too brownish or too greenish and I would prefer a more bluish shade ...






next step, either the doors (or to quote General Ackbar even if it's only working in French : "it's a trap !") or the top part (no French funny jokes. I'll make an edit if I find one).









Edited by colargol
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello and thanks for the comments 😉


I will now present the top part painting.


I begin with a mix of colors to represent a light-middle grey (mix of Gunze grey H301, Gunze blue H56 and Tamiya grey XF-66). Then I have used the New Ware masks (with some corrections) and I have used some Aizu masking band to represent structural line and the articulation of control surface (aera painted with a darker grey - H401 + H301). 




Some of the masks have to be repositionned (blue arrows) to be aligned with the axis of the aircraft (it is not the case on the picture below).





Compared to the picture of the Spirit of New York that I am using as references, I decided to change some areas, to improve the interest of the camo. I have chosen to represent the part in front on the control surface that can be seen on several other aircrafts. For that, I made several layers of middle grey (same color as previously, but with less Tamiya grey XF-66), and I have masked these areas with Aizu masking band.




Then I applied a coat of the middle grey mix on these masking band.


Then, I had to make a difficult choice: either using the kit decals for walking area, or create these areas myself. Considering that the walking area in front of the air intake are not correct in decal (because I had to move the air intakes to make the kit look like a B-2), considering than I would have to modify the shape of a lot of decals due to the painting of structural aeras, and considering the width of the decals that seems too high (7 mm, where it should be less than 6 mm), I decided to represent these area with paint.


First, I applied two coat of Gunze H308.




Then, to represent the walking aera, I have used 6 mm masking tape as a "patron" (OK, it should be a little bit less ...). Then I used 0.4 mm Aizu band to represent the light grey limits. I have used quite 3 m of Aizu band ... but in fact, I bought a huge pile of Aizu bands in various width in prevision for this project, several years ago !




This how it is looking like before painting (I forgot some areas - yellow arrows - I have corrected this error later).




Same thing under my working bench light




Before making the final color, I painted with several shades of grey (lighter, darker) for the air intake and for some random areas where I will represent paint job made by maintenance (pink arrows).




Then, I go to the final color. I have found that H301 was a little bit too brownish and not enough bluish for me. So the final mix is made using H301 grey and H56 blue (more or less 30 drops of grey for 2 to 4 drop of blue). And suddenly, the paint tank of my airbrush decided to take a nap and to leave the airbrush ... I had a lot of paint spilled on the nose of the aircraft. 


The Tamiya masking band is wellknown for its yellow color but not for its ability to avoid liquid infiltration ... so I had to rework the nose a little bit (after sanding with P1000 under the tap water - red arrows).




And this is it !




I will have to correct several places (white arrows) ...




but so far, I looks ok ... (you can noticed that I have also represented some of the internal structure as it can be seen on pictures of the aircraft (but not the Spirit of New York) to improve the interest of the camo)




Something has to be noticed ... since the beginning, I am talking about H301 Gunze color ... I made a mistake in my choice ! In theory, it should have been H305 ...


This is a comparison between the to color (using RGB references - H301 on the left, H305 on the right).




Basically, H301 is a darker H305 (RGB references shows a ratio between 77 and 78% for each of the three colors' components). Moreover, as Gunze colors are an unstable approximation (H77 has change a lot on the last several years for example), I tend to systematically correct the colors by mixing with other colors. It is the case here, and I modified the color to fit with the pictures I have (mainly in books because on the screen, due to the retro-lighting, it is difficult to evaluate the shade of a color). So my color are compliant with the pictures I have, even if I did'nt use the "correct" color in the beginning ...


Hoping you'd like it 😉






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  • 3 weeks later...



eventually, I have found the origin of my color choice : Squadron/signal book and Begemot decals explaination sheet give FS36081. ModelCollect and Testor kit ask for FS36118 ...


First, I finish the painting job for the compressor first stage and the crocodile flap inside part.




Before starting the decals phase, I put a layer of gloss varnish on the kit: I am using Starwax product, an equivalent of "Future", but more dense. I mix it with X-20A from Tamiya and windscreen liquid (50% Starwax, 25% X-20A and 25% windshield liquid).


The decals were made by Twobobs. I don't know if Twobobs made the design of the decals of just printed them but except for the choice of the grey color (which is the same as mine), there are a lot of trouble with the decals...


For the inside part of the door, quite nothing is forseen in the decal sheet. I have to search in my spare decals.




I had trouble with some decals softener (purple arrow). Moreover, stencils on the engine doors were totally forgotten. They are coming from Testor (dark green arrow) and Begemot (light green arrow) decals sheets. 

Begemot grey is too light. Testor grey is too dark. The Twobobs grey is good ... Goldilocks decals 😉




Some areas on the bottom of the aircraft were totally forgotten by either ModelCollect of Twhobobs, even if they are very noticeable (for anyone who want to notice ...). As I didn't use the walkway area decals, I have used the 90° angle of these decals to represent them. Unfortunatelly, I only have 40 angles and 48 are required (47 in fact, one was repainted in maintenance on my version). The other ones are coming from the Testor sheet (wider and darker ... pink arrows).







The circular sensor on the sides of the nose of the aircraft should be of various shade of grey ... it was forgotten too (orange arrows).




moreover, the shape of the nose sensor (blue arrow) is not adapted to the kit shape. I don't know if ModelCollect made any try of the decals on the kit (but if they had did it, it supposes that they have try to build their own kit, and they would have seen that nothing fits ...).


It is the same on the upper part (blue arrow). The refueling light were also forgotten (white arrows). I rebuild a area that was faulty painted first, using decals (black arrow); the lozanges should be larger, but I decided to let it go ...




This is the upper and lower parts, and details on the fuselage.










The "WALKWAY" texts are coming for the kit decal sheet. I was surprised to find a "WALKWAY" written in miror. But considering this kit in fact, I was not that surprise ...


I begin to see the light at the end of the tunnel, but it is not over yet ...




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2 minutes ago, colargol said:

I begin to see the light at the end of the tunnel, but it is not over yet ...

The effort is adding up to a grand looking model.

Even if it might have felt at points like that light at the end of the tunnel had itself been obscured by stealth technology.

Looking again at those landing gear struts -- are you sure they aren't operational on tiny little packets of hydraulic fluid?

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1 hour ago, southwestforests said:

The effort is adding up to a grand looking model.

Even if it might have felt at points like that light at the end of the tunnel had itself been obscured by stealth technology.

Looking again at those landing gear struts -- are you sure they aren't operational on tiny little packets of hydraulic fluid?


I will check again in my weathering process (the doors are not perfectly clean anyway) ... to be continued 😉


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Hello and Thanks 😉


I carry on with the varnish. I have tried the Pébéo one (a french trade mark for painters mostly), but I wasn't convince by the result, even if the matt effect is very strong (what I was looking for), but the varnish coat seems to be fragile ... so I used Tamiya matt varnish (XF-86), diluted in X-20A. Over the Pébéo coat, it keeps the matt effect, but give it more protection.


After that, I've removed the remaining masks (jet exhaust, windshield and the astronavigation window). I have several correction to make, but so far it looks good.


I have aslo glued the first stage of the compressors (yellow arrows). I have represented the top gaz exhaust in painting and not using washes.












It smells like the end 😉




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Hello, no more weathering. I've checked on the pictures I have and the landing gear are not very dirty so I decided to let it as I did before (use of grey wash on the landing gear - that's all).  

I have made some leaking streaks on the bottom, but not too much. On picture of the actual B-2A, it is possible to see some large area more glossy during flight, but I am not sure of the origin of this contrast. I tend to think it's due to a huge water hose cleaning (as this operation can be seen on several pictures) and I suspect some remaining water to be evacuate when the plane is flying.


So no more weathering than what's has already been done. I am not a fan of very trashy weathering. I don't want my model to look like a model kit, but more like a actual aircraft.


Moreover, the flash for the photos flattens the constrast in the white areas. As I made a dark grey first layer (to have an homogeneous color prior to paint the white), there are a lot of natural shadow in the white areas that disseappears in the pictures ...



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Posted (edited)

Last post about the building ...


I have positionned the main landing gear. I insert the brass rods (green arrow) and glued them with Kristal Klear. It was usefull, compared to cyano glue because the position was not correct first. Then, the struts (pink arrow) are positionned. I have put pieces of styren (blue arrows) inside the engine bays to be able to positionned the closed doors.






I had trouble with the acces ladder articulations ... one of them fall in the acces hatch and decided to visit the cockpit.





I was unable to retrieve it, but it is stuck in the back part of the cockpit and now invisible ...




This is the front gear in place (with additionnal pieces in blue). The fitting of the front door is not perfect (orange arrow), it is easy to see it with the lightning here ...


This are the articulation of the bottom part of the rudder. The edge of the kit have been hurt a lot (white arrow) and therefore are not in a mint condition ...






This is the bottom of the finished aircraft. The main landing gear deployement jack are made with 0.6 mm styren rod and electrical cable shaft. The aerodynamic protection (green arrows) are in place too.






I will present the pictures of the finished model in the Display case section.


To sum up, I think it was the worst kit I've ever buid. A continuous approximation of a B-2A (the worst part being ... the air intake position, the non-fitting bays, the main landing gear, the what-if cockpit, the non-fitting of every single piece).


Eventually, the only pieces that I could have not modified (if I didn't bent the ailerons) would have been the tail (pieces D7 and D16) and the internal flaps (pieces D1, D2, D21 and D22). Except for these 6 pieces, everything has to be rework.





Edited by colargol
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