jrpowell3 Posted January 2, 2023 Share Posted January 2, 2023 Ladies and gentlement, I request your collective wisdom. I'm in the painting process of a P-51 in NMF. I used Mission Models Duraluminum(MMM-005) as the metallic. I then tried to use Alclad Aquagloss as the gloss coat so I can start decaling. The problem I ran into was that the Aquagloss crazed and cracked. Looking for a solution, I took a piece of styrene card. I primed it with my usual Grey Stynylrez then painted it with Mission Models Duraluminum (MMM-005). I then tried a bunch of different combos of Vallejo Acrylic Gloss Clear, Mission Models Gloss Clear, and Aquagloss. I tried spraying it light, I tried spraying it heavy, I tried spraying it medium. Every time, it crazed and cracked. It's like the gloss coat shrank as it dried, but wasn't actually adhering to the metallic paint underneath. Therefore, the question I pose to everyone. How in the world am I suppose to clearcoat this? What is the secret? I'm clearly missing something. Thank you all in advance. Jack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted January 2, 2023 Share Posted January 2, 2023 Aquagloss is usually trouble free, this is very strange. How long did you let the MM dry before applying the clear? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrpowell3 Posted January 2, 2023 Author Share Posted January 2, 2023 19 minutes ago, Kurt H. said: Aquagloss is usually trouble free, this is very strange. How long did you let the MM dry before applying the clear? On the plane, at least overnight. On my test subjects, I sprayed it then used a blow dryer on medium heat for a few minutes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kurt H. Posted January 2, 2023 Share Posted January 2, 2023 They say here: https://www.missionmodelsus.com/pages/tips-and-tricks-faq You can continue working as soon as it is dry to the touch, and it is totally cured in 12 hours. I have never used the MM metallics, so I am not sure what else to suggest. maybe try applying decals directly to the paint if it is smooth enough? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrpowell3 Posted January 2, 2023 Author Share Posted January 2, 2023 (edited) 6 minutes ago, Kurt H. said: They say here: https://www.missionmodelsus.com/pages/tips-and-tricks-faq You can continue working as soon as it is dry to the touch, and it is totally cured in 12 hours. I have never used the MM metallics, so I am not sure what else to suggest. maybe try applying decals directly to the paint if it is smooth enough? yeah, the duraluminum does not resist water at all... accidentally dropped water on a painted surface and had to completely repaint the section I may have just gotten a bad batch of that color, who knows Edited January 2, 2023 by jrpowell3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alternative 4 Posted January 2, 2023 Share Posted January 2, 2023 Former forum member Chuck did an experiment with gloss over metal coats. His recommendation was to use Tamiya X-22 thinned with lacquer thinner. X-22 was the only thinner that didn't dull the shine too much. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caudleryan Posted January 4, 2023 Share Posted January 4, 2023 I second this. I use Tamiya x-22 thinned with X-20A laquer thinner. Still gets a decent shine without dulling the NMF too much. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 11 hours ago, caudleryan said: I second this. I use Tamiya x-22 thinned with X-20A laquer thinner. Still gets a decent shine without dulling the NMF too much. Sorry for the pedantry but is that X-20A (white top) for acrylics or their lacquer thinners (orange top)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caudleryan Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 Yellow top. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 3 hours ago, caudleryan said: Yellow top. You know I never realised before there are two Tamiya lacquer thinners. Yellow and orange. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 (edited) As it turns out I have both yellow and orange top lacquer thinners, but only every used the orange for thinning their paints. Not really sure how I ended up with something Ive never used at least once! So you use Lacquer thinners with their acrylic paint X-22 Clear? Ive never tried that myself, I always use X-20A white top thinners in their X-Series acrylic paints. Edited January 19, 2023 by ElectroSoldier Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caudleryan Posted January 26, 2023 Share Posted January 26, 2023 Apparently, I didn't know, either. I have always used the yellow top. Interesting. I use the yellow top laquer thinners because it levels the paint well and dries faster. Gives a really nice finish. I just recently painted a car body with their gloss black and it was like looking into a mirror! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex.B Posted March 6, 2023 Share Posted March 6, 2023 On 1/4/2023 at 4:58 PM, caudleryan said: I second this. I use Tamiya x-22 thinned with X-20A laquer thinner. Still gets a decent shine without dulling the NMF too much. Even better than Aqua Gloss? I’m asking because it’s supposed to be made exactly for metallics.. from a brand that produces one of the best (if not the best) range of metallics available… Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caudleryan Posted March 8, 2023 Share Posted March 8, 2023 Aqua Gloss is good, but I have found it not to be as durable as x-22. Just my experience, though. Others may have better results with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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