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Canopy/Clear parts glue..


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I've been using Testors white glue for the last couple of years, and I don't remember where I picked it up! It does the job without the fogging and is apparently good to use when creating small clear windows... it says that on the label!?!

There are a few options out there, and I'm sure you'll get some options soon!

Andy

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You can use any pva based white glue, even wood glue, which should dry clear (not all do). I have heard of some modellers using jewellers cement, which they use sometimes to fix watch glass. If the canopy is a good fit (and you don't tend to "fly" your models round the room😉) or handle them much, you might be able to use whatever you use for a varnish i.e. a thin smear on the joint face & on it goes. If you do want to use super glue you can varnish, or Pledge/Klear/Astonish (whatever it's called this week) the canopy & this should protect from the super glue fogging but it is sometimes hit or miss for this method. Safest is the PVA glue or dedicated canopy glue, which is probably the same stuff. 

 

---------------

 

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I future my canopies. Once fully cured, I use Tamiya green cap liquid cement to affix it. It does not fog up the canopy.  If needed, I use Apoxie two-part putty to fill any gaps as the excess can be easily removed with a water moistened q-tip, hence not damaging future. Some use white plastic putty for gap filling, but I don't like the plastic putty as it does not feather out as nicely as epoxy putty does.

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PVA glues are more than enough in most cases.
If you coat it in future then you can use something more aggressive like Tamiya green top glue. You just need to be careful what it touches. I only ever really use that on parts of the canopy that will be or have been painted over such as canopy framing to fix it into the open position.

The forward fixed part of a canopy on an F-4 or A-10 for instance can be fixed with PVA glue but for something like the canopy of an He111 or Bf110 then I would use PVA all the way.
Its quite strong once dry. The only problem is keeping it in place while it dries. 

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This is a relatively new product that is really excellent.  Not in in any way associated with the company but I am becoming a very happy customer.  This glue is similar to PVA glues but much stronger and more versatile, especially if your final paint coat is an acrylic.  This glue can be thinned with Turpinoid or similar turpentine substitutes.  This means that that you can easily clean off extra glue after it dries.

 

https://www.michtoy.com/item-VMS-CM09-TF-VMS_Transpa_Fix_6K.html

 

-Cliff

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6 hours ago, Cliff C said:

This is a relatively new product that is really excellent.  Not in in any way associated with the company but I am becoming a very happy customer.  This glue is similar to PVA glues but much stronger and more versatile, especially if your final paint coat is an acrylic.  This glue can be thinned with Turpinoid or similar turpentine substitutes.  This means that that you can easily clean off extra glue after it dries.

 

https://www.michtoy.com/item-VMS-CM09-TF-VMS_Transpa_Fix_6K.html

 

-Cliff

 

Hmm, interesting.

So far, all I've bought from Michigan Toy Soldier Company is toy soldiers, that may have to change ....

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Have a look at BSI-Bob Smith Industries (Gap filling glue odorless) has medium consistency it is a cyanoacrylate made for adhering clear parts with the strength of super glue. I use BSI accelerator to really speed up the curing its fast drying and clear. No need with these products to dip your clear parts.

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I second the recommendation for the Mig Ultra Glue!  I've only been using it for a few months, but the stuff is really, really good.  I've never wanted to use super glue on clear parts, so this stuff is fantastic...no worries about fogging of clear parts, and it dries crystal clear, so even if you happen to get some of it on a clear part, you can't really see it after it dries.  Plus, it is surprisingly strong.  I can't recommend this stuff highly enough!

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I generally use the PVA white glues although in the last year or so so I’ve been making more use of the UV curing clear resin, if you  get too much on or in the wrong spot it will clean up with alcohol if you haven’t yet cured it. I’ve a friend who uses 5-minute clear drying epoxy so as not to worry about the canopy coming adrift during masking, painting, etc. That too will clean up with alcohol if wiped off before hardening.

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