A-10 LOADER Posted February 2, 2023 Share Posted February 2, 2023 Holy cow Rich, great attention to the details and, your abilities are superb. This build has been a joy to watch so far. Really looking forward to the next installment. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted February 2, 2023 Author Share Posted February 2, 2023 (edited) @ExchefAndy and @A-10 LOADER thanks again for leaving such kind remarks…much appreciated 😊 The Beast’s Belly Here is where a large number of conversion mods are required. Continuing with the blacklining process mentioned earlier, numerous panels and access doors were reworked, especially around the auxiliary air intakes in the middle where USAF specs called for different engine startup capabilities. Of course, the catapult tow hook cavities had to be eliminated, in this case by affixing sections from a Zoukei-Mura F-4C kit, which has been sacrificed for the cause. A similar “skin graft” took place just in front of the MLG bays, where the wing bulge begins. Also shown here is a sequence of photos depicting how lost fastener detail was restored to this area. This wing bulge continues backwards to the speed brake, crossing along the way the aft wing spar. Here, borrowing from the ZM kit was not a viable option, as the spacing is different between the kits. So I built up the angled prominences with plastic card. Along this same spar section, and just aft of the MLG strut mounts, reinforcement plates were added. These were fabricated from .005 inch card using an unconventional approach, as I could not think of a better way to create the inside corners for this unusual shape. Edited April 10, 2023 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 Again, fantastic work and, a great tutorial on how you did this, bravo Rich. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
habu2 Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 Quote Black cyanoacrylate glue was used as a filler. I've never seen non-clear CA before, where do you find this? or is it a home-brew? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted February 3, 2023 Author Share Posted February 3, 2023 (edited) On 2/3/2023 at 8:42 AM, habu2 said: I've never seen non-clear CA before, where do you find this? or is it a home-brew? Hi habu2, In my experience, the biggest advantage to black or “rubber toughened” CA glue is visibility: it’s simply easier to see, especially as you begin to work it back with sandpaper. I don’t care for its gritty texture though, so I mix it with traditional clear CA (thin formula) at a ratio of approximately 2 drops clear to 1 drop black. Enough tint is retained and a smooth, plastic like finish can be achieved through sanding and polishing. Several different manufacturers market black CA. I use the BSI product pictured above…it’s readily available from online shops, including Amazon. Edited July 11, 2023 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philippe.chauvin Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 (edited) Good morning subject that is close to my heart for having met an EWO who accomplishes a SEAD mission during linebeker 2 ... Super modification of the most beautiful F-4 in 1/48 scale model ... I follow with interest Cordially, Philip Edited February 4, 2023 by philippe.chauvin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 (edited) @philippe.chauvin @A-10 LOADER Philip & Steve…I thank you kindly! A Splash of Color Tamiya have done a fine job of molding the lower engine sections visible through the open auxiliary air intakes. Tamiya lacquer paints and tinted clears from their acrylic range provide the color. Decals from the spares box simulate placards, labels and hose clamps. A generous lather of “Magic Wash” completes the look. The fore and aft fuselage formers bracketing this compartment were rebuilt with plastic card to improve their scale appearance. The central fuselage keel section separating the two engines also received additional detail to conform to references, including a throttle teleflex cable, control box and torque shaft for each side - fancy technical terms discovered during the research phase. Edited July 11, 2023 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 Fantastic work, looks awesome. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 As impressive as it gets! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philippe.chauvin Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 My EF-4C is less precise than yours ... I made it on the basis of F-4C Monogram. It is not the same level as the Tamiya. he goes on a stele at the entrance of my little base in Spangdahlem... I used the photos of the EF-4C on « prime portal » but you probably have more documentation... Cordially, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted February 7, 2023 Author Share Posted February 7, 2023 (edited) @A-10 LOADER @wardog @philippe.chauvin Many thanks gents 😊 Spinal Surgery …and more skin grafting. The air force style inflight refueling door is from the ZM F-4E kit. Associated fasteners were added too. Edited April 10, 2023 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cruiz Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 The surgery was a success; may I ask why you chose this method instead of engraving it using a template? Not a critique; just wondering. Regards Carlos Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted February 7, 2023 Author Share Posted February 7, 2023 (edited) On 2/7/2023 at 12:21 PM, cruiz said: The surgery was a success; may I ask why you chose this method instead of engraving it using a template? Not a critique; just wondering. Regards Carlos Hi Carlos, I did consider scribing into the Tamiya spine, but, in the end, chose the skin graft, mostly due to the complex, asymmetrical shape of the door. Besides, I’d already sacrificed a couple of kits for the cause. By the way, the Zoukei F-4E and G kits are more accurate in this regard compared to the earlier C/D releases, both in terms of shape and location of the refueling door. Edited January 23 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cruiz Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 10 minutes ago, RichB63 said: Hi Carlos, I did consider scribing into the Tamiya spine, but, in the end, chose the skin graft, mostly due to the complex, asymmetrical shape of the door. Besides, I’d already sacrificed a couple of kits for the cause. Interestingly, the ZM F-4E and G kits are more accurate in this regard compared to their earlier C/D releases, both in terms of shape and location of the refueling door. It makes sense now; I would have had a hard time aligning an insert as you did; I didn't notice the asymmetrical shape of the door at first; thanks for answering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 For those who wish to scribe the door: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10793162 https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10793162 https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10793157 https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10793157 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 1 hour ago, RichB63 said: @A-10 LOADER @wardog @philippe.chauvin Many thanks gents 😊 Spinal Surgery …and more skin grafting. The air force style inflight refueling door is from the ZM F-4E kit. Associated fasteners were added too. Just curious, after you applied the black CA, 1. How long did you have to wait before you started sanding? 2. What grades of sandpaper did you use? Your result is very smooth and polished. I'm trying to achieve that too. Thank you very much Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted February 7, 2023 Author Share Posted February 7, 2023 (edited) @JackMan…thanks very much for those links to the scribing template. I love that kind of stuff! Regarding the process, I allow the CA glue to harden (minimum 10 to 15 minutes) before attacking it. I start with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper stuck to hardback sanding tools, commercial or homemade. I seldom use anything more coarse, thus avoiding hard-to-remove scratches. Rigidity is key during this phase as the dried CA glue is usually more unyielding than the surrounding plastic. I don't break out the sanding sponges until the later finishing stages. Lastly, I'll treat the area with some plastic polish (Novus 1 & 2). Modelers talk about a window of opportunity for sanding CA glue - a sweet spot in time before it dries so hard as to become nearly unworkable. And while I don’t doubt the chemistry, there are too many variables involved for me to nail down that moment precisely and consistently…so I don’t worry about it. Even days later, I’ve had success sanding back fully cured CA glue. The key again, in my opinion, is the use of hardback sanding tools. Edited January 23 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ST0RM Posted February 8, 2023 Share Posted February 8, 2023 The level of detail you're adding in places that will be rarely, if ever, seen is incredible. I'm thoroughly enjoying watching this take shape. Thank you! -Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted February 8, 2023 Share Posted February 8, 2023 These APU parts look like cyberpunk engines. 🙂 And everything else is... simply put, awesoooome! Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted February 8, 2023 Share Posted February 8, 2023 Thanks for the detailed response of your technique Agreed about CA drying so hard, it becomes unworkable. Happened to me when I first started experimenting with CA glue. Made the mistake of leaving the CA on the kit for almost 2 weeks before realising that it was like trying to sand a piece of rock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 (edited) @cruiz, @JackMan, @ST0RM, @my favs are F`s…thanks for following along, your comments are deeply appreciated! More Color The auxiliary intake area is complete, save for some ground safety locks that will be installed on the door actuators, a feature of parked jets. I love my favs are F’s “cyberpunk” comment. It's true! As these parts will literally lurk in the shadows of the finished model, I deliberately went all in with Spanish style contrast and highlighting, mostly in the form of a heavy “Magic Wash” consisting of a 50/50 mix of Future Floor Polish and tap water, plus a few drops of Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black. Door placards are from AOA Decals. As you can see from the two photos below, paint discoloration and lubricant stains are features of the real thing. The second aircraft also wears a thick coat of dust from sitting derelict in the desert. Edited April 10, 2023 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
11bee Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Amazing work. Having just built Tamiya's 32nd F-4C, I'll be following your build closely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philippe.chauvin Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Good morning I have never seen such a level of precision on an F-4 ... GREAT ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr.Happy Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Sublime! Incredible craftsmanship Rich. Mr.Happy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted February 17, 2023 Author Share Posted February 17, 2023 (edited) @11bee John, good to have you aboard. And thanks for your kind words. @philippe.chauvin, @Mr.Happy, once again, thanks for your interest in this silly project…and, as always, for your friendly comments. A Wing And (mostly) A Prayer… Maybe the most challenging aspect of this conversion project is the wing. I mentioned earlier the many panels and hatches underneath that require attention. But the most obvious change is the later style “thick wing.” Here I followed Jun Temma’s lead and replaced a section of each upper wing half with parts from the ZM F-4C. These new pieces were thinned down on the inside to match the thickness of the surrounding Tamiya parts. This helps ensure the large structural brace (part A1) fits properly inside the wing. As you can see, this eliminated all of the the MLG bay interior detail, so new ceiling liners were fashioned from 0.005 inch card. To recreate the raised fasteners, I copied the pattern from the original Tamiya wing by embossing brass foil over the detail and transferring it to the plastic card ceiling liners. A semi sharp sewing needle provided the punch. I’m finishing up the MLG bays now. Except for the doors, which will come from the ZM kit, everything is scratch-built as there was no easy way of incorporating any of the kit parts in this area, given all of the remodeling. Thanks for tuning in! Edited April 10, 2023 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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