What to use to clean airbrush after AK Real Color paint?

[Curt B]

Hey All,

 

This is a fundamental, beginner's type question, but I haven't gotten a definitive answer.  I love using AK Real Color paint.  To me, it's like Tamiya acrylic paint, only with a lot more predefined colors, and dead flat finish EVERY time.  However, I have a problem with cleaning my airbrush after spraying it.  When I spray Tamiya acrylic paint, it cleans up PERFECTLY with Windex/ammonia.  Even Tamiya paint that has dried for years comes off/dissolves with Windex/ammonia.  However, in MY experience, using Windex with AK Real Color ends up turning the residual paint to chunks.  Others have said that Windex works great to clean up AK Real Color paint, but that has not been my experience.  Others have also said that 91% isopropyl alcohol works well.  I have tried that also, and it SEEMS like the alcohol works great, certainly better than Windex.  Of course, I could always use the dedicated Real Color thinner, but that stuff is REALLY hugely expensive, or, I could use lacquer thinner, which also works great but it's really nasty, stinky and toxic (not that the other stuff isn't toxic).  So, can anyone tell me. chemically, whether 91% Isopropyl alcohol REALLY works to clean up AK Real Color?  Ideally, evidence other than just anecdotal.  I have to say that AK Real Color paint dries just absolutely dead flat, even better than Tamiya acrylic, consistently.  Love the paint, but if I can't consistently clean up my airbrushes afterwards, it's not worth the worry about getting a mucked up airbrush in the end.

 

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

Edited May 27, 2023 by Curt B

[Chris L]

 

 Commercial lacquer thinner ( lowes or Home depot) will work.

 Mr.color leveling thinner and Tamiya lacquer thinner should also do the job

 

[Crash Test Dummy]

I use hardware store lacquer thinner for cleanup of AK Real Color, Tamiya, MRP and Hataka Orange that I spray.  And I use Mr. Collor Leveling Thinner when I need to thin any of them.

 

You should avoid using ammonia or Windex in the airbrush.  It can attack the brass that most of them are made out of and eventually cause damage. I wouldn't soak parts in anything containing ammonia and rinse parts with water or lacquer thinner if you do clean with ammonia.

[Curt B]

43 minutes ago, Chris L said:

 

 Commercial lacquer thinner ( lowes or Home depot) will work.

 Mr.color leveling thinner and Tamiya lacquer thinner should also do the job

 

Thanks, Chris.

[Curt B]

12 minutes ago, Crash Test Dummy said:

I use hardware store lacquer thinner for cleanup of AK Real Color, Tamiya, MRP and Hataka Orange that I spray.  And I use Mr. Collor Leveling Thinner when I need to thin any of them.

 

You should avoid using ammonia or Windex in the airbrush.  It can attack the brass that most of them are made out of and eventually cause damage. I wouldn't soak parts in anything containing ammonia and rinse parts with water or lacquer thinner if you do clean with ammonia.

I never soak any airbrush parts in Windex...only quick flushes, which, frankly, is all that is needed for cleanup of Tamiya paints.  That stated, I've used Windex on my Paasche to clean Tamiya paints for MANY years, and never had a problem.  

 

I appreciate the comments, thanks!!!

[Kurt H.]

I have read that AK real colors is actually lacquer. The initial batch was apparently tamiya acrylic like in composition, but it was quickly changed to a lacquer.  This might explain the results you get using windex to clean it.  I treat it like Mr. Color lacquers, and clean with hardware store lacquer thinner, which works very well.

 

 

[dogsbody]

I've used 99% ISO for cleaning AK Real and Tamiya form my old Badger 150 airbrush. Works great!

 

 

 

Chris

[Curt B]

46 minutes ago, dogsbody said:

I've used 99% ISO for cleaning AK Real and Tamiya form my old Badger 150 airbrush. Works great!

 

 

 

Chris

Great info…thanks, Chris.  

[Chuck1945]

Since installing a paint booth I’ve gone to Mr Color, MRP, Hataka Orange, and the Tamiya LP range, all acrylic lacquers. As already mentioned, my impression too is that AK Real Colors is also an acrylic lacquer. Hardware store generic lacquer thinner for clean-up and Mr Color Levelling Thinner when thinning is necessary for spraying.
 

Changing the topic a bit, is there a US source for individual bottles of AK Real Color? I’ve usually just seen them in box sets.

[Curt B]

14 minutes ago, Chuck1945 said:

Since installing a paint booth I’ve gone to Mr Color, MRP, Hataka Orange, and the Tamiya LP range, all acrylic lacquers. As already mentioned, my impression too is that AK Real Colors is also an acrylic lacquer. Hardware store generic lacquer thinner for clean-up and Mr Color Levelling Thinner when thinning is necessary for spraying.
 

Changing the topic a bit, is there a US source for individual bottles of AK Real Color? I’ve usually just seen them in box sets.

Thanks for the info, Chuck.  

 

Regarding where to buy individual bottles of AK Real Color paint, I've had good luck with MegaHobby (https://www.megahobby.com), Michigan Toy Soldier (https://www.michtoy.com), or Burbank's House of Hobbies (https://houseofhobbies.com).  I think you can get a wide variety of the paint sets from these places, also.

[ElectroSoldier]

I like them too, I keep going back to Tamiya/Gunze but Ive recently been trying out the AK line and theyre quite nice, and the colours are pretty nice too.

 

I just use cellulose thinners to clean up, pull the needle through a rag soaked in it and it never sticks, and Ive never found a paint that survives it.

Lacquer thinners would work too, they can be every bit as aggressive, so I wouldnt disagree with anybody who suggests those too.

[Tato]

I use AK Real Colors all the time, and clean my airbrush with Isopropyl alcohol. Work wonders every time.

 

Tato

[Curt B]

On 5/20/2023 at 10:47 PM, Kurt H. said:

I have read that AK real colors is actually lacquer. The initial batch was apparently tamiya acrylic like in composition, but it was quickly changed to a lacquer.  This might explain the results you get using windex to clean it.  I treat it like Mr. Color lacquers, and clean with hardware store lacquer thinner, which works very well.

 

 

If true, that would certainly explain the behaviors I've seen.  I really wish the paint manufacturers would be a lot less secretive about their composition, but then I'm sure their financial folks wouldn't support the loss of sales of their proprietary/dedicated thinners and cleaners.  In fact, I'd be happy to use the manufacturer's stuff to clean my airbrushes , IF it wasn't so outrageously expensive.  

[Curt B]

On 5/22/2023 at 3:32 PM, Tato said:

I use AK Real Colors all the time, and clean my airbrush with Isopropyl alcohol. Work wonders every time.

 

Tato

Glad to hear...thanks for the info.  I guess I'm going to be using alcohol as my airbrush cleaner after AK Real Color use.  This has certainly eased my mind, as I've been concerned about long term clogging of expensive airbrushes.  I'll be able to move forward with less worries!  Thanks to all who gave me an answer,

[CFster]

Lacquer thinner, or even better, acetone. Store bought lacquer thinner is the best value for cleanup. Neither will hurt your brush, unlike ammonia. 

Edited May 30, 2023 by CFster

[Curt B]

2 hours ago, CFster said:

Lacquer thinner, or even better, acetone. Store bought lacquer thinner is the best value for cleanup. Neither will hurt your brush, unlike ammonia. 

Thanks for the info.  I was trying to come up with options that are a little less toxic that lacquer thinner or acetone, but good to know acetone also works.  I've got plenty of both available.