Jump to content

A-10C Intake Fan and Spinner Color(s)


Recommended Posts

I got  the amazingly well created Phase Hangar Resin A-10C engine intake and exhaust for my 1/48 Academy A-10C.  Normally, I'm not terribly worried about the colors for fans or spinners, since they are usually buried deep in the fuselage of fighter aircraft, but the A-10's fans are right in your face, so I'd like to do these fans and spinners correctly.  Would a Titanium metal color be correct?  Are the fans/spinners polished or a matte type finish?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

While I'm not around them everyday anymore I looked at my reference photos. I would paint the blades STEEL and the spinners I believe are FS 36375, Light Ghost Gray. The Academy kit instructions tell you to paint the spinners FS 36320, Dark Ghost Gray but, as we all know you really can't trust kit instructions 100% so, do some research.

Steve

Edited by A-10 LOADER
Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, A-10 LOADER said:

While I'm not around them everyday anymore I looked at my reference photos. I would paint the blades STEEL and the spinners I believe are FS 36375, Light Ghost Gray. The Academy kit instructions tell you to paint the spinners FS 36320, Dark Ghost Gray but, as we all know you really can't trust kit instructions 100% so, do some research.

Steve

I absolutely don’t trust instruction painting guides, thus my question!  I appreciate the response 😊

Link to post
Share on other sites

The blades are bare metal and made from a steel alloy, so however you want to recreate that.  The spinner is commonly painted the same as the nacelle camouflage color, but just googling there are pics that look like unpainted aluminum or even mismatched shades between the spinner base and tip. Or even sometimes green on gray jets. This link is one that was gray, but most of the paint has pealed to reveal yellow primer.  It looks like it's still mounted on a plane.

 

https://www.alamy.com/senior-airman-shayne-cole-74th-aircraft-maintenance-unit-amu-aerospace-propulsion-technician-inspects-the-compression-blades-of-a-turbo-fan-tf-34-engine-july-16-2018-at-moody-air-force-base-ga-airmen-from-the-74th-amu-play-a-part-in-the-upkeep-and-maintenance-of-the-air-forces-largest-operational-a-10-fighter-group-maintainers-from-the-74th-amu-accomplished-a-repair-on-a-tf-34-engine-in-48-operational-hours-image217853876.html

 

Nothing beats photo references.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, that’s a GREAT picture!  The fact that the base and forward part of the spinner appear to have differing wear patterns is amazing.  The photo also gives a wonderful insight into the color of the blades.   It’s going to be more interesting painting these intakes than I had anticipated!!

Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, berniemckenna said:

If you just google A-10 engines, you get a group of nice color pictures of the engine. Should help.

 

Bernie McKenna

I will do that…thank you!!

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/28/2023 at 11:16 AM, berniemckenna said:

If you just google A-10 engines, you get a group of nice color pictures of the engine. Should help.

 

Bernie McKenna

Hey Bernie, I've been looking at photos that get pulled up when searching for 'A-10 engines', and you were absolutely right, a huge number of pictures that show exactly what I need to do to paint the intakes correctly.  It was nice to hear one of the earlier comment about using steel color for the fan blades, though, and I'm certainly going to do that, dirtied up with highly thinned black.  I think using theses correct colors, combined with the really well done Phase Hangar parts, is going tot make my A-10C look great!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Been working on the same parts in 1/32, here's how I did :

 

The fans were painted Titanium (Tamiya), then masked and the dome was sprayed with light grey (FS36375) (MRP)
The intakes were painted in three colours: outer lips in light grey (FS36375) the front engine in white and the small area around the fan in dark metal.

 

A10C_popup_147.png

 

I painted the lip first with MRP exhaust metal and some mist of MRP steel. Then sprayed Mig scratch effect and painted MRP FS 36375 (MRP-38)

After a few moments I wiped the intake lips with water and scratched with a jeweller sponge wearing the paint down and letting the undercoat appear

A10C_popup_149.png

Same was done on the fan domes. But I could have used a yellow primer like in the picture above.

 

Some inspiration for the exhaust:

A10C_popup_148.png

 

These resin parts are so great compared to the original parts (Trumpeter 1/32)

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/31/2023 at 6:24 AM, A-10 LOADER said:

They look awesome Red Dog.

Steve

I agree, absolutely!  Great looking intake details!  One question, though.  Last night, I began my 1/48 Academy A-10, and sprayed the MRP-038 over black primer.  While many folks have said that this paint is a 'good' Light Ghost Grey color, I'm finding that it has a decidedly bluish look to it.  Red Dog's photos, on my screen, don't show that, but we all know what computer screens/monitors can do to colors, right?  I noted that the Mr. Color Light Ghost Grey, (C308) has an even more pronounced bluish cast, and AK Real Color RC252 appears to have the most 'neutral grey' tone to it (least blue cast), of this grouping of paints.  Am I the only one to see/notice this?  I'd really like to keep with the MRP038 for this airplane.  Thoughts?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I mostly always use MRP-038 for light ghost grey - but I have Real colours I want to test on my A-10 as well.

Speaking of which I have been impressed by the tone of Real colours on a previous project where I compared MRP, Gunze and AK Real colours on a Belgian Mirage 5 camouflage and one of the green was definitely better to my eyes than all other brands. 

It's just a pain that they are so thick and so hard to dilute

 

The blue tint on MRP-037 is definitely there. As you said H308 has it too but it doesn't really bother me. IMHO a good contrast between the two tones scheme and the decal is often preferrable than the colour being totally accurate (which can never be anyway due to many factors)

 

Here are some samples of the rear side fuselage of the 1/32 A-10 painted with MRP-038 over black preshading:

A10C_popup_204.png

 

A10C_popup_205.png

 

I'm good with the above, especially since my model will be heavily weathered, but I will definitely try real colours as well on this one

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/4/2023 at 2:17 AM, Red Dog said:

I mostly always use MRP-038 for light ghost grey - but I have Real colours I want to test on my A-10 as well.

Speaking of which I have been impressed by the tone of Real colours on a previous project where I compared MRP, Gunze and AK Real colours on a Belgian Mirage 5 camouflage and one of the green was definitely better to my eyes than all other brands. 

It's just a pain that they are so thick and so hard to dilute

 

The blue tint on MRP-037 is definitely there. As you said H308 has it too but it doesn't really bother me. IMHO a good contrast between the two tones scheme and the decal is often preferrable than the colour being totally accurate (which can never be anyway due to many factors)

 

Here are some samples of the rear side fuselage of the 1/32 A-10 painted with MRP-038 over black preshading:

A10C_popup_204.png

 

A10C_popup_205.png

 

I'm good with the above, especially since my model will be heavily weathered, but I will definitely try real colours as well on this one

Red Dog, thanks for your reply and the photos.  I'm glad that I am not the only one to notice the bluish cast of the MRP-038.  That written, I'm not sure, now, that this cast is really contrary to the color on the actually aircraft.  I've never seen an A-10 in real life, so all I have to go with for comparison are photos, and again, there are always issues with colors as seen on a computer screen.  Also, I agree that heavy weathering can change the perception of color on the model.  I don't know if it's worthy of concern, so I'm just going to use the MRP-038.  In contrast, depending upon the paint scheme I'm going to end up doing, I'll need to decide on a Dark Ghost Grey color.  I have MRP, AK Real Color and Gunze lacquer I can use for the Dark Ghost Grey, so I'll see which of those I'm going to use, going forward.  Thanks, again, for your input!

Edited by Curt B
Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I ask something Curt, since you have the new Italeri model

 

Could you measure the diameter of the wing MLWS sensor? 

That's the one visible at the front of the wingtip

A10C_popup_215.png

 

I scratched those on my 1/32 A-10 but I have doubts of my dimensions

I'm specifically after the sensor, not it's coaming which is way harder to measure

Just the circular protruding sensor if you can. 

 

Then I can convert this to 1/32 🙂

 

Thanks 

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Red Dog said:

Can I ask something Curt, since you have the new Italeri model

 

Could you measure the diameter of the wing MLWS sensor? 

That's the one visible at the front of the wingtip

A10C_popup_215.png

 

I scratched those on my 1/32 A-10 but I have doubts of my dimensions

I'm specifically after the sensor, not it's coaming which is way harder to measure

Just the circular protruding sensor if you can. 

 

Then I can convert this to 1/32 🙂

 

Thanks 

Hey Red Dog,

 

I'll be happy to get a measurement for you, but I've got the Academy kit, not the Italeri.  Is  that okay?

The diameter of the 'outer ring' is exactly 5mm.  The inner portion, which looks like a circular window of some sort on the real sensor, is 2.8mm.  Hope this helps.

 

Curt

Edited by Curt B
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...