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REVELL/PRO MODELER F-86D IN 1/48


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Posted (edited)

Greetings,

 

The decal scheme for the 4th FIS with red stripes did not work out as the stripes when applied just do not agree with the photo (too wide in width). So I am going to go for the Phillipine scheme. I could not find a photo of the real A/C but other Phillipine Air Force F-86Ds photos all sported the F-86L scoops. I had to repaint the radome to tan and the anti glare panel to back. Also painted the vertical tail sections in white and grey. If you find the actual photo of this A/C please post here. Regardless this is the scheme I am going for. I also modify the pitot tube to longer length. The kit's offer is too stuby and short. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Posted (edited)

Howdy all,

 

Scratch build the pitot tube to more scale. The kit's rendering is just awful. Close examination of the decal sheet instruction calls for underside grey and wing tips white that I will do next. I do not understand the logic of painting the tail white while leaving out some panels?  Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Looks great. I have a Revell on the bench right now. I too have had problems with Xtreme paints in the past. They’re amazing to watch flash off into a chrome like shine but so fragile. I’ll give up a little shine for durability any day. I’ll be spraying mine in SM-206. 
 

You wouldn’t be willing to part with that original decal sheet would you? Looking to do the U.S. Air Force FU-989 scheme with the orange sections. 

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6 hours ago, CFster said:

Looks great. I have a Revell on the bench right now. I too have had problems with Xtreme paints in the past. They’re amazing to watch flash off into a chrome like shine but so fragile. I’ll give up a little shine for durability any day. I’ll be spraying mine in SM-206. 
 

You wouldn’t be willing to part with that original decal sheet would you? Looking to do the U.S. Air Force FU-989 scheme with the orange sections. 

In my hands, AK is way to fragile that I had to do touch ups all day long. The SM 201 really is almost on the same level of the AK Polished Aluminum and 1000 times more durable. Dai 

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Posted (edited)

Hello all,

 

Not much progress on week days. Painted the wing tips white, picked out some panels in silver and reduced the length of the pitot tube. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Posted (edited)

Hello all,

 

Ready for the decal stage. Waiting for the replacement decals to arrive from France as I spilled dark beer al over the original one ! As a reminder if you plan to do USAF colorful scheme, use the flushed fuselage scoops as the majority of USAF planes have this type. F-86L scoops are generally for exports. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Posted (edited)

Greeting friends,

 

A major set back here. I accidentally spilled CA all over the tail and the recovery was impossible. The CA had destroyed many panel lines and rescue was futile. I am in the process of building another one and it is ready to be painted. The main frame is not complicated and went together pretty quickly. Last night I thought wasting the whole airframe of the previous build would be a waste so why not install an engine to the fuse with a new rear half? The Academy F86F has a nice engine but it is the J47 GE 33 instead of J47 GE 17. I posted a question on another thread to see if there are vast external differences between these 2. I cannot find a single photo of the D with the engine attached to the fuse. I went on Scalemates to look at the Kitty Hawk F 86D with engine placement but the instruction is not there. Any comments are greatly appreciated. Dai 

Edited by dai phan
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Hi all,

 

I did some research on Wikipedia on the J47 engine. The D version comes after the F so does it make sense the GE-17 would power the D then the GE-33 would power the F as noted on Wiki? Dai  

 

J47-GE-17
(7E-TG-190D) 5,425 pounds-force (24 kN) at 7,950 rpm dry, 7,350 pounds-force (33 kN) at 7,950 rpm wet, powered the North American F-86D Sabre[7]
 
J47-GE-33
5,550 pounds-force (25 kN) thrust, powered the F-86F & F-86K[7]
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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Spruemeister said:

If you haven't gotten to the paint yet, the wing center section is a dull finish aluminum, not a gray paint. 

 

Rick L.

What would be the appropriate paint in the Mr Color range?  I have done research online and nobody agrees to this color. I have seen FS 16440 to ADC grey to Alclad Aluminum to FS 16473 to FS 36495. Can someone chime in? The plane is at the primer stage while I am still waiting for Mr Color Leveling Thinner to arrive from Taiwan. If exact color cannot be obtained, I will mix a bit of FS 36495 (H338) to some silver paint to give the grayish silver look. Thanks Dai 

Edited by dai phan
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I'm not familiar with the Mr. Color metals so others might know more.  I used to think it was gray like Corogaurd until I was shown that it is actually like a chemically milled aluminum sheet which leaves the surface very dull.  To that extent you could just use a clear flat over aluminum to the same effect.  All you need is contrast to the rest of the airframe. 

 

98358-D20-F104-4820-B722-1-DB7944-CE56-C

 

My F-86D was done with Alclad Airframe Aluminum and Dull Aluminum lacquers. 

 

Someone on Hyperscale forum also posted the F-86D tech order which shows the undercoat on the belly to be aluminized lacquer and not 16473 like I had applied.  So I have a number of issues with my build but its too late to back up now without another strip and paint.  Which isn't going to happen.  I'll fix it on the next one. 

 

Rick L.

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I’m using LP-11 for the wing center sections on mine. That’s a great color for the painted aluminum wings on a P-51 by the way. I thought it would be appropriate for this subject. 
 

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Edited by CFster
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4 hours ago, CFster said:

I’m using LP-11 for the wing center sections on mine. That’s a great color for the painted aluminum wings on a P-51 by the way. I thought it would be appropriate for this subject. 
 

IMG_3918

 

Nice build. That center section although silver paint but looks very grey which seems right. Dai

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Hi all,

 

So I come to a conclusion on the color of the wing section. It is not gray paint like one painted in grey at the USAF Museum but a silverish grey. Black and white photo clearly show a vast difference in color variation. I am going to mix SM 201 to H338 (grey) to get this approximate color. I am surprised in the modelling community has not come up with a definitive answer, may be due to too much variation in color? Dai 

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5 hours ago, CFster said:

I’m using LP-11 for the wing center sections on mine. That’s a great color for the painted aluminum wings on a P-51 by the way. I thought it would be appropriate for this subject. 
 

IMG_3918

 

Beautiful bird! I assume you will paint the inner side of the speed brakes? Your decal is coming! Dai 

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Posted (edited)

Hello all,

 

On this kit the wings to the fuse is not as precise as I hope. The left wing joins nicely with the fuse creating a nice 90 degree butt joint. On the right there was a tiny gap and after application of cement/putty the joint is a rounded butt join rather at 90 degree joint. I tried everything to create this 90 degree joint but to no avail. Then I found a method that works as below:

 

1. Use scriber to create a nice panel line between the fuse and the wing. Do not create too wide of a panel line. I do 4 light passes with Tamiya scriber. This will remove the rounded joint that you have. Gently use sandpaper to remove any rough edges. 

2. Apply water based putty like the "Perfect Plastic Putty" into the joint using toothpick.

3. Use microbrush to remove excess putty before it dries. Careful not to do too much that you remove the putty in the panel line. Just remove excess putty without digging into the panel line.

4. Shoot a light layer of primer like Mr Surfacer 1500 to check the result.

 

You will end up with a nice 90 degree fuselage/wing joint. This technique works well on my scale of 1/48 when you have a poor wing/fuse fit. Nothing ruins a model like a rounded joint. Infact on real airplane there should be a panel line where the parts joint together. A rounded joint looks like the parts are being welded together that does not exist in real life. In fact I always apply panel liner at joint to give illusion of a joint like rather than being welded. Dai 

Edited by dai phan
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On 6/19/2024 at 3:55 AM, dai phan said:

Beautiful bird! I assume you will paint the inner side of the speed brakes? Your decal is coming! Dai 


Yeah, they should be green like the wheel bays right? 

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, CFster said:


Yeah, they should be green like the wheel bays right? 

Correct. I use Vallejo Model Air Interior Green. Dai

Edited by dai phan
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Dai Phan - a small length of sprue in the opening of the fuselage would act as a spreader making the wing / fuselage side tight.  (Next time, right??)

 

C2j

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19 hours ago, Cubs2jets said:

Dai Phan - a small length of sprue in the opening of the fuselage would act as a spreader making the wing / fuselage side tight.  (Next time, right??)

 

C2j

Yes !!! I am going to build the F-86K and I will use your suggestion ! Dai 

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Posted (edited)

Hello all,

 

The thinner came in and time to paint. The center section calls for dull greyish aluminum paint so I mix Mr Color grey and silver to get the silver greyish look. I think this is way better than my previous effort. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Posted (edited)

Howdy everyone...

 

Almost ready to clear coat after the nose is painted. I like much better the color of the center wing section as it has the dull greyish aluminum look.  I think ADC grey or light grey is too stark as the agreement is the panel being chemically treated aluminum rather being painted. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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Posted (edited)

Greetings,

 

Ready for clear coating after I paint the front cockpit hood black. The mounting pegs for the main gears are tiny and cannot support the weight. You should remove the pegs and insert a metal rod. Also on this build I get ghost seams that I did not get with other NMF projects. What is going on here? Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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