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When it comes to canopies, i feel that this piece on the aircraft can either make or break your model. Here is the trouble i run into when i'm installing hte company. First I know when I use certain glues, it would fog up the canopy, but yet these glue from the tubes provide the strength i feel comfortable with. Yet when i use something like testors glue for canopies, it isnt strong enough but it doesnt fog up the canopy. And what happens if there is a seam between the canopy and the body itself, how would u get rid of it? I ran into these problems on my last project f-4g. It was very frustrating to say the least. So I would love to hear the different techniques you guys might have for these problems.

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Couple options but here's one I use.

First, install the windscreen (before airbrushing but after finishing the cockpit), with a small amount of Tenax. You'll have a good strong bond (plastic to plastic) and you shouldn't have any crazing or fogging. Then, to fill any gaps used Tamiya puty, Bondo, etc.. thinned with acetone and carefully brush into the seam. You will likely need several coats, but you also should not need to sand.

Works real well.

Here's an example...

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great advise above, also don't be afraid to sand your canopy to get it to fit just right and if you do get any fogging you can remove your canopy and sand it off, apply "modeler's holy water" aka future floor polish, to remove any scratches. Once canopy is in place mask it off and paint it with the rest of your model. When you remove the mask it will be "as one" with the model. Now go in peace.

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And if you do treat the canopy with Future as mentioned above (dip the entire canopy in a bowl of Future, remove, place on a paper towel to wick off the excess and cover with another bowl to prevent dust from getting on it as it dries) you can glue it with just about anything, including super glue, without it fogging up

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Tenax 7 is a liquid (as thin as water) glue,usually applied by fine brush or better yet,a glass applicator. The glue is applied and through capillaryaction,flow into the join and seams.It also dries very fast(evaporates actually) and welds the plastic.GREAT stuff.

Paul T

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when you dip the canopy into the future, do u need to dilute it?  or just pour the future into a bowl, and then straight dip the canopy into the future.

Just pour an amount sufficient to cover the canopy into a small sealable container, dip the canopy, remove and touch the edges on a kitchen towel to wick off the excess and then place in another sealable container on a piece of clean kitchen towel, close the lid and put to one side for a day. The sealable containers I use are Bacofoil small portion trays with a lid.

HTH

Edited by Andy Mullen
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All of the above techniques are very good ones, but i have learned over the years that using tube glue could be very frustrating and results are not good atall, for building basic airframe i use CA glue and liquid weld bond glue, its good combination. As for clear parts i give them Future bath and once dried then i glue them in with Humbrol's Clear Fix!, works excellent for me and i dont have to worry about fogging on clear parts also.

Dont use CA glue on clear parts as it would most likely cloud or fog the clear part unless you are going to paint over it.

Sameer

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I have been using Future as a glue as well for canopies. After dipping in Future, let dry, mask, paint, etc and the canopy is ready, I place the canopy in position, load a fine brush with future and touch it to the seam (as you would a wash). I let dry and repeat. This gives a good bond with no hazing.

JOE

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