brahio Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Please note that for all F-86A-1 and F-86A-5 up to 48-254 the flaps normal position on the ground was closed. I don't have any photos of 48-214, but have 48-210 and 48-217. Please have a look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 (edited) 4 hours ago, brahio said: Please note that for all F-86A-1 and F-86A-5 up to 48-254 the flaps normal position on the ground was closed. I don't have any photos of 48-214, but have 48-210 and 48-217. Please have a look. Hi, Thank you for the information. Did you mean slats? But I am going to display mine open anyway as it is a distinctive feature of early F-86s. Here is the 48214. Dai Edited January 30 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 Greetings, Bullseye did not provide the underside diagram of the fuselage for stencils placement. There are lots of stencils left over and I know on the underside there are many stencils like in the 86F especially in the center section. I wonder if the stencils for the F would also work for the A? Dai Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brahio Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 2 hours ago, dai phan said: Thank you for the information. Did you mean slats? Oh, sorry, slats of course. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brahio Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 1 hour ago, dai phan said: Bullseye did not provide the underside diagram of the fuselage for stencils placement. There are lots of stencils left over and I know on the underside there are many stencils like in the 86F especially in the center section. I wonder if the stencils for the F would also work for the A? Dai Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 (edited) Hello, Bullseye did not provide stencil placements for the drop tanks. Does anyone has a photo to help me out? I cannot find on the Net. I know the red circular goes on the tank cap but I would like to know the orientation of the notches. Thanks Dai Edited February 4 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 On 1/30/2025 at 10:42 AM, brahio said: I look at the diagram but the texts do not match with what Bullseye has. Dai Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 (edited) Hi all, For Sabre expertens, after the squadron emblems were applied, did stencils that were overpainted get repainted? I see the photo of the actual plane and I do not see any repainted stencils. Maybe I did not because of the photo’s quality ? Dai Edited February 1 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 11 hours ago, dai phan said: Hello, Bullseye provide stencil placements for the drop tanks. Does anyone has a photo to help me out? I cannot find on the Net. I know the red circular goes on the tank cap but I would like to know the orientation of the notches. hanks Dai CP does provide a nice stencil placement sheet and I am able to figure out where these go. Dai Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 (edited) Greetings, The plane is decaled and ready for gloss coat. A few things. The fuselage emblem for my scheme (48214) is undersized when compared with photo. The yellow emblem for another scheme is better porportioned. The landing gears do not have pegs and are butt joined to the wheel wells. This makes very weak bonding and my plane has collasped under its weight many times.. I would recommend inserting metal pins or glue with epoxy. Dai Edited February 3 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 (edited) Hello all, Applied the wash. I use polishing cloth to remove the wash and anything else is too harsh and may remove the decal. I use black for the panel lines and brown grimes for the surfaces to give it a worn weathered look. Avoid black for body wash as it is too stark. Dai Edited February 5 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 (edited) Howdy, A good reference photo for weathering. Dai Edited February 4 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lgl007 Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 WOW... fabulous! -Greg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 (edited) Hello friends, The project is completed as this is my fourth straight Sabres (F86 MK 6, D,K and A). As usual... PROS: 1. The best 1/48 A variant. Lindberg is a toy and best ignored. However I have seen someone used the rear fuselage in his conversion project. 2. Good cockpit and wheel wells details. The PE parts are PIA however. 3. Options of deployed flaps and slats. 4. Extensive stencil decal sheet. 5. Nice dedicate surface details. CONS: 1. Over and questionable engineering. 2. Seam lines are not far away from panel lines that after cleaning up, you lose all the fine details of the panel lines. 3. Seam lines end up on surfaces rather at leading and trailing edges. 4. Right side surface details are more pronounced then on the left. 5. Inaccurate instructions on where the parts go. Do not follow the arrows as that will lead you to place at incorrect position. 6. The landing gears do not have pegs but rather are cemented at the wheel wells as butt joints. This makes a very weak bond and my plane has collasped under its own weight many times. Insert a metal pin or use epoxy. 7. Fit is average. The worse is the forward belly pan. Gaps galore that you need to trim the front landing gear bay in order for it to come together. 8. No pre-drilled holes/guides for the drop tanks. The flashed over holes on the left wing are correct and the right is wrong. You have to measure and drill the holes yourself. I attached the fuel tanks at the correct pencil marks using white glue. No holes are drilled as I know I will make mistake. 9. The decal film is thin and very prone to folding itself. 10. The nose 2 circular clear parts are bigger then the cut outs. I left mine out. 11. The right side vent is not depicted on the kit. 12. The plane sits high when compared to the photo. This is the best F-86A in 1/48 scale at this time. This kit is reserved for intermediate modelers as the fit issue will give beginners great difficulty. The Bullseye decal sheet is beautifully printed. Thin, strong and responds to setting solution. My scheme FU-214 the fuselage emblem is undersized so you may look into different schemes instead. The 2 fuselage bands do not follow the angle of the rear fuselage. I had to cut into sections. There is no belly diagram to show you the placement of the stencils. I use the excellent CP diagram and its stencils. The Academy J47 from their F 86F can be used without difficulty on this kit. The bulkheads only need some minor modifications to fit the CP kit cross section. You need 2 CP kits if you want to have open engine project. You need to cut 1 mm away from the seam line on both the front and back fuselage to allow for the sanding. If you cut at the panel line, you will end up with "shorter" fuselage halves after sanding. Eduard's PE 1488 is not recommended as the side consoles PE are wider than they should be making the fit of the seat impossible. Trimming the PE parts will not work as you will delaminate the printing. I had to sand the sides of the seat in order to fit. Use Quinta, Kelik or Eduard's Space set instead. I am planning to do the all white civilian F-86 using the Kelik set and I will let you know how that goes. Dai Edited February 18 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 (edited) Hello everyone… Now onto the second one with the all white scheme. This is different from the previous one with the slats shut, wing fences added along with multiple antennas. It still sports the narrow chord wing. Draw Decal states wrongly on the website that the plane has wider chord. Wider chord overlaps the ammo door at the wing root that is not evident on this bird. The speed brakes will be closed to preserve the clean line of this aircraft. Duncan states the cockpit is white but I am going to exercise some liberty and use the Kelik 3D set. Dai Edited February 6 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geoff M Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Beautifully done Sabre. Looking forward to seeing your WW Sports version. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lgl007 Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 WOW Dai... great job. Looking forward to seeing the new one brought to life 🙂 -Greg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 (edited) Howdy all, The junction between the fuselage and the windshield is smooth without joint line seen on the real airplane. I once asked someone who built the plane before it was released if putty work is needed as his example had flawless smooth joint. I was told the kit was designed in a way that very little putty work is needed as I recalled. Well, in my hands, some serious putty work will be needed to get a smooth joint and for the love of God, after the damned plane was already painted ! So I striped the paint (easily done with IPA in ultra-sonic cleaner), smoothed and flared the edges. I plan to re-attach the windshield, apply putty and carefully spot paint the area. My mistake for not picking it up sooner and that is now I am telling you now. The result will not be as good as I would like but will be much better tnan before. In other F86 kits, the junction of the fuselage and winshield is molded in to prevent the problem as I mentioned. Dai Edited February 8 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 (edited) Happy Sunday everyone… The build on the civilian F-86A has started. I use the Kelik 3D set which is vastly superior to Eduard’s PE set. However the dials needles were not printed well enough to see. Dai Edited February 9 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 (edited) Greetings, To keep the clean lines of the aircraft, speed brakes are closed. The kit’s brakes are designed to be opened so the horizontal tabs must be removed. I use water based putty to avoid aggressive sanding and preserve the outlines as well as the rivets. The white scheme has the gun panels with closed ports. When the plane was repainted in Korean War scheme, open gun ports were placed. Dai Edited February 10 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 (edited) Hi all, The fuse is placed together. Do not glue cockpit to the intake trunk. Cement the cockpit tube to the fuse first then add the trunk to the fuse. There are 6 tabs total and if you follow the instruction, you may not be able to get them to line up properly. The trunk does not provide any stability to the tub as the tub has its own locking tabs (4). Dai Edited February 10 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 (edited) Greetings friends, Does anyone know if the wing fences added on this bird (repainted in Korean War scheme) is at the same location as on the 6-3 wing? Of note is the bent pitot tube on the wing and luckily CP provides one in the kit. Also the windshield is not of the early V type but seems to be of the later F type on the white version? Dai Edited February 18 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 (edited) Hello all, There has been some debates/questions on the right or appropriate color for the F-86 center wing section. CFster recommended Tamiya LP-11 (silver) and that is what I used on this project. Here is the LP-11 on the wing section and I think that is a good color match as seen on the real thing. The center section is treated metal so it has the grayish tint but still retain the NMF look. This color is a good contrast for the main NMF color of Mr Color Super Metallics SM201. Dai Edited February 10 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 (edited) Hello all, Installed the slats tonight. It is best if the slats are installed first to the upper wing before glueing the lower. That way you can control the position of the slats better. Use thin liquid cement, apply at the seam and work carefully in small sections ensuring there is smooth transition between the slat and wing mating surface using the feel of your finger. The slats are not very straight and if you glue all at once, you will have uneven (up and down) seam lines. I applied pin wash to ensure the rivets are still there as I was very careful in my glueing and sanding job. Dai Edited February 11 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dai phan Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 (edited) Hi all, It is funny how last year I was trying to extend the slats and now this year I am retracting it . Dai Edited February 11 by dai phan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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