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Adherence of PE problems


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Ive been trying to improve my skills, but have been having problems lately w/ some flaps.  I have an academy Helldiver w/ stainless steel PE and they are very fragile and popping off the model, and also from its self.  I’ve been using AK Black Widow CA.  Does any one have any thoughts? Even w/ thin CA I find it difficult to get any type of PE to adhere. 

Edited by davevw
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  • 2 weeks later...

I had similar experiences: the adhesion photo-etch glued with CA is rather bad, very frustrating. But it can be improved greatly by first etching the part(s). That sounds like a lot of work, but it can be done in seconds.

 

What I do is heat up a small quantity of vinegar in the microwave, until it nearly boils (or boils). Then throw the part(s) in, and let the hot (read: very reactive) vinegar etch the part a few seconds. Drain the vinegar, the part itself will dry quickly because it's hot, and your ready to glue with CA. It will bond very well now!

 

As always: do a few tests / experiments first, before you use this technique on your model.

 

Rob

 

PS: I just noted you mention stainless steel p/e. Are you sure of that? Nearly all p/e is brass, with a nickel coating. If you leave nickel-coated p/e too long in hot vinegar, the nickel will be gone, etched away. That'n no problem in my experience, the nickel just makes the p/e look better. If it's really stainless steel p/e, I'm not sure my etching technique will work.

Edited by Rob de Bie
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10 minutes ago, admiralcag said:

Does the temperature of the vinegar matter? I pickle my brass overnight at room temperature.

 

At room temperature it takes a long time, like you describe. When it's hot / boiling, it's far more reactive, and in my case it takes seconds. That suits me better.

 

Rob

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