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Lifespan of a paintjob


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Yep, have some 40-50 year old models that have really changed over time. Especially white and decals before I knew the advantages of a coat of future or other product.

Depending on the paint used, some models at 10 years can age for the worse. Most of my 30 plus year models have been given away or tossed. Gives me a reason to rebuild a better version of them.

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The only really old built kit I have an Airfix 1/72 Gladiator built in ‘71 or thereabouts, Humbrol enamels and rub-on decals. The reason it has survived with only one rigging wire coming undone is due to it packed away for most of the time so no sun exposure and no paint shifts.
Except for perhaps 3-4 models including that Gladiator, all built ones were tossed when we moved from PA to WA in 2001.

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10 hours ago, Chuck1945 said:

The only really old built kit I have an Airfix 1/72 Gladiator built in ‘71 or thereabouts, Humbrol enamels and rub-on decals. The reason it has survived with only one rigging wire coming undone is due to it packed away for most of the time so no sun exposure and no paint shifts.
Except for perhaps 3-4 models including that Gladiator, all built ones were tossed when we moved from PA to WA in 2001.

 

I hope you didn`t miss the salmon sale, lol.

 

 

ToLeDo.PNG

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For me it's the decals that haven't aged well. Even with proper application, the decal film has become darker over time. When this has happened, I'll throw the model away, which makes room for another one.

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My Italeri B-58 from 1994 still has a viable Testors Metalizer finish, however some seams have reappeared and the Microscale decals are lifting in places.  No clear coat, no primer.    

 

Rick L.

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It depends on several factors.  Some of my older builds look like they were finished yesterday, some look like they are 50 years old.  Here's what I've noticed about my older builds that are 30+ years old:

- Testors enamel based whites almost always develop some yellowing

- Clear coating over decals helps them not age as badly

- Tamiya paint holds up well at 35+ years

- Humidity swings + dust = badly caked on dust that can be hard to remove from a model

- Old Testors tube glue joints weaken with age

- CA joints seem to hold up well and the seams don't reappear over time

- Hasegawa plastic can get very brittle over time (easy to spot before building, sprues turn a gray-yellow color)

Edited by sigtau
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59 minutes ago, Alex.B said:

Pretty much all enamel based paints tend to yellow

Yeah, but you're not going to notice it when model master gunship gray yellows. 

 

It also depends on if you used testors glosscoat/dullcoat on the build.  I didn't start using it until the mid 90's and I wish I hadn't.  Everything white I used it on yellowed badly.  Luckily, I switched to acrylic clear coats in the late 90's.

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On 7/1/2025 at 6:05 PM, sigtau said:

Yeah, but you're not going to notice it when model master gunship gray yellows. 

 

It also depends on if you used testors glosscoat/dullcoat on the build.  I didn't start using it until the mid 90's and I wish I hadn't.  Everything white I used it on yellowed badly.  Luckily, I switched to acrylic clear coats in the late 90's.

 

I also stopped using Testors dullcote when I noticed the contents of a bottle wasn't just yellowed, but getting close to brown. But a model sprayed with it about 25 years ago still looks new, and while mostly grey it has some white decal areas. While some yellowing of enamels is inevitable, keeping it out of the sun seems key.

 

Edited by spejic
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