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Priming/Painting/Final Coat...?


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1.) Should you ALWAYS prime before painting?

2.) If I want to have the plane to have...well a plane like look (guessing flat coat), I must still spray a Gloss coat on first because decals won't stick properly if not on gloss...right?

3.) If so, what do I do to take thatglossy look off...well at least some of it?

4.) I would apply the gloss coat after EVERYHING is painted and assembled right? Or just the fusealage//wings?

5.)Do I use future anywhere after...before...or inbetween these steps?

6.) If parts of my canopy need to be painted...do I assemble the canopy on...mask it...paint? or do I "lay the masked canopy on and paint it...or do I just paint the canopy by itself?

7.) When shall I add the decals, and should I "lock" them down with anything?

8.) I would weather the plane//panel lines at which step?

I know this is almost asking how to build a model, but I'm ready to paint my A-10...just wondering how to go about it the "Right" way, since I don't like the way my first 3 planes came...(I'm a whole newb to this high deatailing thing)

If someone could list the steps, or what to spray on first through last...I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,

John

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Here are the steps as I see them.

1. prime (if needed)

2. paint lighter paint color.

3. mask for darker paint color.

4. paint darker color.

5. remove masking except from canopy.

6. gloss coat. (Future)

7. decal

8. (optional) gloss coat over decals

9. final flat finish. (Testor's Dullcote or Polly S Flat)

Priming helps find flaws in the seams and sanding marks, but isn't really necessary except for resin parts and under Alclad II.

I usually do the painting when the plane is mostly assembled except for the little pieces like bombs, gear doors, etc. If you are leaving the canopy open, mask off the cockpit opening when painting the fuselage and paint the canopy separately.

It helps to put another coat of future over the decals since decal setting solutions and decal solvents will make future hazy. The second coat fixes that.

Generally it is best to apply a weathering wash after the final gloss coat and before applying the flat finish.

Hope this helps.

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Thanks! That cleared some things up for me...Though I need to find a way to get future onto the plane since I'm a begginer and don't have an Airbrush. I do though have testors Spray can converter which allows you to place 1/4 Oz bottles in it, and it sprays it out like spray paint/air brushing with an airbrush propellent canattached to it...Could I put Future in a 1/4 Oz bottle and spray it on that way?

When do I attach the canopy in this process?

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If you have a nice soft brush, you can easily brush future on. A 1/4 inch flat brush works well.

It is actually easier than airbrushing it, since it tends to pool on the edges of parts.

Canopy.

If you want to have the canopy open.

I would attach the canopy as one of the final things and paint the framing while the canopy is separate.

If you want to have the canopy closed, just mask the framing and glue it down before painting. Elmers glue works pretty well for attaching canopies. Use a toothpick to spread a little around the edges of the canopy. Let it dry for a couple days. It isn't very strong for plastic, but it won't ruin the clear plastic.

Leave the masking on the canopy until after you have put the final flat coat on the model. You don't want the flat finish to get on the clear area.

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Guest turok_t

hey jnick, this is what i would do...very similar to the first guy..

1) prime the plane only if u want to detect flaws and only if the final colour of the plane is the SAME as the colour of the plastic ( this helps so u dont miss areas on the plane)

2)spray darker of lighter first depending on the plane. For F-15C, it is generally easier to spray darker first, because it helps the masking)

3)mask it and spray the other colour (dark/light)

4)perform any chalk weathering (chalk sticks best to flat surface, but not on glossy)

5)Future

6)decals

7)future

8)weathering-panel lines, oil leakage rust.. blah blah

9)flat finish

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Alright...thanks..

BTW, You spray Darker first, than lighter...?

And you say you weather, then future it, then Weather it again...?

CWA - For the canopies...does the "Testors Clear parts glue" work wekll to?

Thanks,

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Priming is a step necesary when you are shooting paints for porous surfaces on a non-porous surface or when you must protect the underlying surface from corrosion. If you work on plastic, there's no corrosion, and if you use model paints there's no need for primer.

HTH,

Ricardo-.

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