Flankerman Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 some friends just saw a 27 close to land at the Bourget air show this morning, i think that i will do my own walkaround next week :D i wish that russians will let me walk close enough to the beast :) Richy, It is supposed to be the 'new' Su-27SKM - a technology demonstrator for the Russian AF upgrade programme. It used to be called Su-27SK(Upgraded) - at least according to the brochure I picked up. See my :- http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/flanke...es/su-27sku.htm Go along to the Sukhoi/KnAAPO stand - and pester them for 'brashura' - until they give you the brochure (really a booklet) - and the CD !! If you REALLY pester them, they MAY give you the T-shirt !!! and take LOTS of pics - I can't make LB this year. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kasatka Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 could someone shot a picture of how and where stabiliser is connected to the fuselage? Please =) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richy Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 the russian flanker is arived at le bourget another one just for fun nice camo... it is going to be a good week end :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kasatka Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 cool! thanks for the pics =) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 could someone shot a picture of how and where stabiliser is connected to the fuselage?Please =) This is another area where Trumpeter have got it wrong !! If you want to fit the stabs in the horizontal position, you can use Trumpeters pivot point (although it is not very strong). If you want to be more realistic and mount them at an angle - you need to move the pivot point forward - and chamfer the area where it meets the side booms. This following photos show the modes I made to mine..... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 I have filled in the old pivot point - and made a new one from brass rod. You have to make a corresponding hole on the fuselage below the fin. I will dig out some better photos of the real thing - but these show the idea :- http://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/flankers_pages/fins.htm Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 Nice pics Richy - I'm jealous !!!! It looks like Sukhoi haven't dipped their canopy in Future though !!! Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SebastianP Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 #¤%@%&! Finally a pic of the inside of the starboard stabilizer - *after* I gave up looking for one and decided to paint my Airifix Flanker up as a blue/blue/blue line bird.... Very nice to see I *did* have my color selections for it right on the money, though - Humborl 147 "Light Aircraft Gray" base color, with black and gunship gray (fs 36118) for the camouflage. Complaint of the day: Only two of the standard flanker colours available from Humbrol, and they're both a real pain to work with when brush painting (I hate gloss paints!) And the closest I could get to the base color was shiny as well... (I mixed about half and half of Humbrol 34 Flat White and 47 Light Blue for the base color, and I'm using undiluted 47 and 48 for the camouflage. At least it'll be *blue*, rather than gray as per the kit instructions...) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 A couple of shots of the stabiliser fitted (but not yet glued) to the fuselage - showing the attachment point..... I had already added the actuator fairings - which slide up inside the covers on the fin. But - when I tried to attach the stabs - I found that I had to remove the fairings!!!! I will re-attach them later.... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 Here is the stab in place - still not glued on..... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 (edited) If you want I will scan these both in for you to have a look at. The .32 sized squares is most likely a scale match for the guards. The only problem will be finding them. Hey Jay, No need to scan them, the .32 (0.0126") squares are exactly what I need. I picked up some 1/64" (0.0156" (.39mm) diamond pattern photo-etch and while the squares are small enough that you wouldn't be able to tell they're on a diagonal, I would prefer to use a true square grid pattern. My plan is to apply and detail the pho-etch to each side of thin plasticard, detail it, and mold and cast it, so I'll need enough photo-etch to do 4 parts. How big is the Tri-tool sheet? I checked HLJ and saw no mesh. I guess Hasegawa dropped this from thier line... I'll keep looking... With the Eduard set on the market, is it worth doing anything with the FOD guards, etched or otherwise? As you say, it's almost impossible to replicate the guard exactly and Eduard have made a good fist of the job. So long as the Zactoman intakes accept the Eduard etch the two could be combined to give the best of both worlds and you would be free to concentrate on your next project Hey Geedubelyer,The Eduard parts may well fit my parts with a little modification. I am building the intakes with a double wall, exactly as you mentioned about "thickening the wall toward the rear of the inlet". However, I have to include something, or it will be an incomplete kit. If not the cast parts, then original photo-etch of my own (which would really drive the price up!) Ken, your Flanker is looking great, I wish you'de finish it so you would quit discovering problems with it! Skuki, that canopy looks incredible! I want one! I haven't gotten much done on the intakes these past few days... I've started glueing the outer wall of one intake, re-vacuumformed the rear trunking after slightly modifying the pattern, and remade the upper-wall (splitter-plate?). I'm currently remaking the forward inner-walls. Note the hole pattern on the upper-wall. I decided to go with the 12 hole pattern, rather than the 23 hole, or the mesh version. I figure if you want to do the mesh version, the holes could be filled and replaced with decal (which I'm debating whether to include with the kit). Edited December 7, 2007 by Zactoman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 See I told you! Since I was the first to suggest you making the revised intakes, I'm first in line to get them! 2 please, to start with + 2 canopies. Ummm.. Somebody mentioned it on page 1 Alamo missile fins are way too long. The missiles under the intakes almost touch the ground.Alamo A should have a span of 77cm, thats .947" in 1/32, the kit measures 1.52 ! Way off ! Because the missile body is to large a diameter, I'm Only removing about 1/8" each fin to make the missiles look in proportion. The intakes themselves bulge down too much, should be almost flat on the bottom. This makes the missile situation even worse. I may just shorten the pylons. And the canopy sucks... Then on page 10, newbie "Archer" asked: Is there nobody who will make som right eng intakes for the 1/32 flanker?I think that they are really way of. Not to worry, you'll get yours! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kasatka Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 (edited) Ken, you're right.. that is exactly what my concern was.. look at my last two posts with the pcitures of the real one here http://www.sukhoi.ru/forum/showthread.php?...8081#post578081 Trumpeter got it wrong.. Just to bring this issue up for everyone to know Thanks, Ken Edited June 8, 2005 by Kasatka Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Ken, your Flanker is looking great, I wish you'de finish it so you would quit discovering problems with it! ;) Like the intake-mounted RWR Aerials ?? I think you have this one covered in your replacement intake set ?? The kit part is too short - and needs to be made longer - as shown in the attached..... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Top is the kit part, bottom is the scale drawing showing the correct shape - middle is my modified aerial..... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 (edited) Why 23 blades??? Why not 24, or 22? Edited December 7, 2007 by Zactoman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Why 23 blades??? Why not 24, or 22? Odd people, these Russians...... :lol: Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kasatka Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 23rd February is Red Army Day. The day when every single man in Russia is drunk =)) And the day when all women congratulate us.. give us presents .. etc..=) 23! ..yeah.. I love this number..=)) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wasserfall Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Hey Zactoman i'm stunned by your skils :o But what techniques do you use, and what tools and material? if i look at the intake upperside and the compressor blades you must be using some sort of cnc tool? For the moment my build is going slow (painting the K36 deskchair) But i'm following your progress on the intakes and maybe when they are ready for sale i wil replace mine with yours Happy modeling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Hey Zactoman i'm stunned by your skils But what techniques do you use, and what tools and material? if i look at the intake upperside and the compressor blades you must be using some sort of cnc tool? Thanks Wasserfall :blink: CNC, what's that? I'm using the equipment at work for some of the parts. For the fan I turned 2 pieces of ABS, one for the blades, and one for the center hub, on a 1948 Logan lathe. I then cut the blades, and the dimples on the hub using a rotary indexing-head on a 1962 Clausing mill. The shop equipment is not only old, but it was bought used, from a design school years ago...It sucks. But I make due. I think years of working with rickity antiques have improved my machining skills! As far as materials go, I mostly use sheet styrene, or natural ABS which is softer and waxier than sytrene, but machines and polishes nicely. I used ABS to make the nosecone master as well. I also use RENshape, which is a filled-urethane board that works alot like a medium-density wood without any wood-grain and can be sanded and polished to a high gloss. I used it to make the IRST hump as well as the master-pattern for my canopy. It can be vacuumformed over, as I did for the rear-coaming piece on the canopy frame, but doesn't hold-up well for production vacuumforming. Another material I frequently use is urethane foam, or sign-foam. I like to use 10lb density for most applications. It carves easily. It can be vacuumformed over, but doesn't hold-up well at all, just a few pulls and leaves a texture on the plastic that must be dealt with. For the intakes, I made the vacform pattern for the rear trunking with this. I'm also using blocks of it for aligning the intake parts while I'm making them. It can also be sealed and filled, then primed, puttied and sanded. One could even do a full model with it, for say master-patterns of a kit :huh: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 And what kit might that be? Hey, I bet there would be a great market for a 1/32 MiG-23 for someone who's looking to produce his own resin kits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rafael Winter Posted June 11, 2005 Author Share Posted June 11, 2005 Man today I received my nose cone from Zactomodels.... - high quality resin casting - very, very,very fast delivery.... thanks Zacto.... more 3 nose cone on the way... :huh: Rafael Winter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
APUMAN57 Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Hello Chris, Mr 6 by-passes here, If you mean why there are an unevan number of blades in the compressor hub, it's because if one blade dislodges or brakes away from the hub during rotation the rotating assembly becomes unbalanced putting a huge strain on a blade that would be 180 degrees across from the missing blade position, so thats why there are two blades across from each single blade position, the strain is taken up by two insted of one . I hope this explains it. Oh, by the way I build jet engines for a living ! Keep up the work and I'm wqaitting on the list for the intakes too !!! Best Regards guys, Joe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Over on the 'Real Aviation' thread there are some excellent pics of the Su-27SKM at Le Bourget. This head-on picture shows the IRST ball offset to starboard - different from a 'standard' Su-27. But what it does point out is that the lens of the ball is not a circular dome - as Trumpeter have it. The bottom half of the dome is cut off - to form a 3/4-circle when viewed from the front. Just a little point - just thought I'd highlight it. The pic also shows that the intake in the port fin leading edge is much bigger than the starboard intake. Just trying to help Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LST01 Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Hello Ken, would be cool to see a 1:32 flanker in a Air - unguided/guided - Surface configuration!! Btw: we've never met, but I'm familiar with your work with regard to modelling and your website! Keep up the good work! Cheers! Laurens the Netherlands Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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