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Hi Gents,

Hope you aren't sick of the tanks yet...Here they are dry brushed. These things get kicked, rolled and bumped...and get pretty scuffed up; especially on the belly. Scuffs were done with colored pencil. Paint chips were done with colored pencil as well.

The aft attach point was modified, and I added the small red drain to each tank...

Regards,

Pig

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Pig

I absolutly love your work. :D :worship::worship:

You have given me ideas I never thought of. Weathering pods and tanks is something I would never have thought of doing on their own just as a part of the whole weathering process. Fantastic work!

Cannot wait to see what you do with the cockpit and gear bay, they are what I am working on at the moment and trying to work out how to weather without screwing up. Some pretty expensive resin etched metal and plastic in my kit.

Cheers :unsure:

Jason

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Pig, outstanding work! :thumbsup:

A question: When you drybrush things like the fuel tanks, is it "conventional" drybrushing, like to highlight raised detail or do you do some other stuff to the painted surface? If so, which paints do you use for drybrushing and what do you drybrush?

Yes, I'm a huge fan of the beaten-up look!

:lol:

Oliver

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A question: When you drybrush things like the fuel tanks, is it "conventional" drybrushing, like to highlight raised detail or do you do some other stuff to the painted surface? If so, which paints do you use for drybrushing and what do you drybrush?

Oliver

HI Oliver!

Thanks for the compliment! As far as the drybrushing goes, I do mostly what you refer to as "conventioinal" to highlight the raised detail and thes edges of things. Ocationally I'll use a "grinding" drybrush pass for dirty handprints, but most of the heavy weathering I do is with oils.

For the drybrushing on the tanks, I used the same model master enamel I used for the finish coat, just lightened up a bit with some white. If it gets a little shiny, I'll blast it with the flat coat again.

Regards,

Pig

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I've started on the tailpipes as well. I plan to use the Eduard photoetched inards. The first step was to thin the outer lip of the tailpipes..I did that by scraping it in circles on the inside of the lip with a #11 blade, then smoothed it with 600 or so grit wraped around a dowel. I used a file to make the notches between each invividual nozzle leaf. Makes these kit parts look alot better..

Regards,

Pig

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Boy Oh Boy..... Feels like Christmas..... Pierre , Pete and Tilt all doing Superdetailed Builds at the same time.

Now I've got some cool Breakfast Material to look at!!!!

Pete Keep it coming and awesome work so far.

:P

Emil

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Forgot to mention...Those were the Cutting Edge AIM-9s. They are so nice, they practically build themselves! They even give you an alignment jig for the fins, which I need for sure :cheers:

Anyhoo...this one is for Zactoman: See? There is the box! There really is a Hornet model in Pigs shop :huh:

Hang tough. I'm getting a beer.

:wave:

Pig

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