PapaSmurf630 Posted March 28, 2005 Share Posted March 28, 2005 I wish I had your fingernails... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GreyGhost Posted March 28, 2005 Share Posted March 28, 2005 Pierre, howcome you didn't just etch the LED hole out during the photoetch process ??? I admire your work ethic, those MFDs you first did looked pretty darn good to me, I guess they didn't meet your high standards ... Gregg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scalephantomphixer Posted March 29, 2005 Author Share Posted March 29, 2005 Pierre, howcome you didn't just etch the LED hole out during the photoetch process ??? ... There is a good reason for this: I am lazy The original drawing had the LED hole positionned on the lower face of the MFD housing. This was great for the front c/p MFD, but didn't work for the rear c/p MFDs. No space available there. Since I wanted to keep my transfer drawings - printed on transparent acetate - I just filled in the original hole with a black marker. After the etch process I punched out the new hole on the rear face. "Don't sweat the small stuff..." Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Lynam Posted March 29, 2005 Share Posted March 29, 2005 Well, as always Pierre, you keep outdoing yourself. B) Outstanding! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GreyGhost Posted March 29, 2005 Share Posted March 29, 2005 Ahhhh ... Gotcha ... B) Pierre, You Da Man !!! Gregg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trevortex88 Posted March 29, 2005 Share Posted March 29, 2005 Wow, 2 things i thought I'd never hear from Pierre: "I am lazy" and "Don't sweat the small stuff" LOL! Trev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scalephantomphixer Posted March 30, 2005 Author Share Posted March 30, 2005 March 30, 2005 I needed something to hold my MFDs while soldering them, and prevent solder from leaking insike the box. Si I thought about milling a hold tool out of a rod of aluminum. It was an interesting job, for a nice tool, but which was kinda inefficient: the heat produced by the soldering iron was convected away by the aluminum part and I had much trouble getting a strong bond. Next time I will create my tool with a material that is not heat sensitive AND isolating. Any ideas? Cheers, Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chek Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 hardwood? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hatchet Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 You could maken it like a cross, then itwill only be in contact with the middle part of the panels. Your MFDs appear to be about 8*8 mm, so around 2mm should do for the arms of the cross. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Lynam Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I suggest wood as well. It would be a lot easier to shape and trim to fit the parts, and it won't mark or scratch your work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barneydhc82 Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Pierre: The wood idea is the best as wood dos not conduct heat...and it is very easily formed. Barney Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scalephantomphixer Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 (edited) Thanks guys for the hints :lol: Actual size is 5.5 x 5.5mm. Wood is something I will try. MDF is probably hard enough, and easy to mill. Now I can see more etching ahead... :D Pierre Edited March 31, 2005 by Scalephantomphixer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hatchet Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Pierre, I think MDF would be a bad choice. Essentially, it's sawdust that's been glued together and if you start to cut it in 'intricate' shapes, it will probably crumble. Best bet is a solid piece of wood. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scalephantomphixer Posted April 2, 2005 Author Share Posted April 2, 2005 April 2, 2005 I followed your advice, and built a holding tool out of hard wood. The result speeks for itself :) Nice soldering lines, almost invisible. Thank you all for the hint! Cheers, Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Lynam Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 Looks perfect Pierre! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scalephantomphixer Posted April 2, 2005 Author Share Posted April 2, 2005 April 2, 2005 (cont.) I added the displays (acetate + cardstock) and closed the boxes. A perfect soldering job, requiring only little polishing I will now paint the boxes gray, and add the frames with all the tiny buttons to both front faces. A painful task ahead... Cheers, Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barneydhc82 Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 Very nice work Pierre. One of these days I'll get back to my C-130E using some of your inspirational ideas. At the moment I am still working on the engine installation in my Grumman Alley Cat...1/1 scale Barney Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scalephantomphixer Posted April 2, 2005 Author Share Posted April 2, 2005 ...At the moment I am still working on the engine installation in my Grumman Alley Cat...1/1 scaleBarney A very impressive kit you have there, indeed. I love your attention to details: you replicated even the special fuel filter, wow Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barneydhc82 Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 Thanks Pierre. I'll have more photos as the final goodies are tidied up. Since the photo of the plumbing and wiring for the Fuel Scan were taken, the wiring has been properly bundled and the beast is awaiting its' first test flight. With the increased horse power and other enhancements, it should really blow the fairings off of most of the Cessna 172s and Piper Cherokee Warriors out there... Barney Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scalephantomphixer Posted April 3, 2005 Author Share Posted April 3, 2005 April 3, 2005 This morning I added the buttons to one of both MFD frames. Thanks to the jig I built for my first MFD, this task went without a glitch. I used Future to glue the buttons, as well as for attaching the frame to the MFD box. Then I CA'd the right box into the rear cockpit panel. Et voilà, we have a beautiful HSI display :) On the photo showing the backside, you can see that the LED is not yet pluged in. I would like the CA to fully cure before I do anything else. Cheers, Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scalephantomphixer Posted April 3, 2005 Author Share Posted April 3, 2005 April 3, 2005 Building the second MFD frame. The first pic shows the jig I built with Tamiya tape (to stick the frame on) and white paper (to mark the position for the buttons). The black strip of paper serves as a "parking" for unglued buttons, so I can spot them easily. The razor blade is for an easy alignement of the buttons: once a row of 5 is in place, I gently push them up until they meet the blade. This guarantees a perfect alignement, and it shows off even when looking at the frame without a magnifying glass. On the second pic, you can see how large a sharp toothpick is when compared to the buttons... :) Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KRI76 Posted April 3, 2005 Share Posted April 3, 2005 The more I look at your work, the more I think "Madman" is truly appropriate for you!!!! :) Amazing work, as usual! /Kristian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scalephantomphixer Posted April 3, 2005 Author Share Posted April 3, 2005 April 3, 2005 Last photos for today: both MFDs are installed and working Cheers, Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
virsago_mk2 Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 HOLY.... :lol: :lol: :blink: Keep going man! ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GreyGhost Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 Looking Great Pierre !!! the 'pit is all coming together ... Gregg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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