jmel Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 Progress is slow, but coming along. The majority of the work has been staring at the kit, trying to figure out the best way to modify the block 50 gear into a block 30. Here's what I've got so far. The nose gear leg "fork' has been filed to replicate the more rounded shape on the pre-block 40. The scissors were swiped from the Hasagawa kit, and left disconnected, as this jet will be in the mx hangar. As it turns out, the Hasagawa parts are better detailed, anyway. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 22, 2005 Author Share Posted January 22, 2005 A peek into the gear bay. Some have said the gear bays are pretty sparse. I disagree. With the exception of hydraulic lines (which, in my opinion, don't look right molded in place in plastic), every structure is faithfully reproduced by Tamiya. I've still got a little more to add, but this is how it stands after an afternoon of work. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 22, 2005 Author Share Posted January 22, 2005 The engine is superb. This is how it looks straight from the box. Tomorrow I'll start adding its plumbing. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pete "Pig" Fleischmann Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 Jake Jake Jake!! This looks AWESOME Really off to an outstanding start, but I assumed and expected nothing less! Are you using solder for the silver hydraulic lines, and how did you strap them down, with lead foil? Looks very convincing! More images if you would be so kind.. Regards, Pig Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boom175 Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 Are you using solder for the silver hydraulic lines, and how did you strap them down, with lead foil? Looks very convincing!More images if you would be so kind.. Regards, Pig Heck Murph! you stole my thunder!! I was just about to ask that question I think he has a reducing machine and zapped some Adel clamps down to 32nd scale!! :( :huh: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 Are you using solder for the silver hydraulic lines, and how did you strap them down, with lead foil? Looks very convincing!More images if you would be so kind.. Â Regards, Pig No, it's actually an old left-over from an Eduard set for the Hasagawa F-16A. It fit pretty well. More pictures and progress to come. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can make a block 30 wheel? Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FrankC Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 Very Cool Jake! This is the first one I have seen under construction. It's looking great so far. cheers, --Frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 Pretty cool Jake!! Aren't the scissor links always disconnected unless the jet is ready for take-off or isn't being towed??I remember seeing an F-16B (ADF) that had a wear spot on the middle of the nose gear tire due to the scissor link being disconnected,,,,you could see the fibres inside the wheel!!! It was kinda scary! Colin, I thought that the links were only disconnected during movement of the jet. As soon as the jet is returned to the line, the links are re-connected. Maybe the B ADF you saw just had worn tires? Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 Here are the only things you may want to address though:-Not sure if the Ohio block 30's are still using the small battery, but that main be it. -Block 40/50 battery support brackets are set up differently, but you'll have to get some pics to compare to see what I mean. -The 341 bulkhead (where the MLG mounts) webbing is a bit different and more beefed up compared to block 30, but nothing that noticable from a modeling standpoint. -I would add the pin boxes to the left forward top of the well. What are you going to do about the MLG doors? The door bracketing is quite different from the smaller blocks. Hasegawa donor? Mike V Hey, Mike. Thanks for the tips! I haven't done much to the main gear well, but I'll definitely address your suggestions. I don't know if the OH ANG, specifically, is using the smaller battery, but I was told while in Terre Haute last time that all early blocks are being retrofitted with the new battery, so I'll assume that's the case in Ohio, and use the kit parts. I haven't thought too much about the main gear doors and wheels/brake assemblies, simply because I'm procrastinating. I don't know what I'll do about the wheel. Did the main gear door framing change at block 40? If that's the case, than I'll use the Hasagawa doors. I'm not familiar with the pin boxes. Can you point me in the direction of a photo of them? DACO book, etc? Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guard Hog Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 Hey Jake- That looks great! Those lines sure add a lot. Keep up the great work! -Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D_IcarUS_ Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 Great job so far!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithery Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 Lookin good Jake! Definitely tracking this thread, as I plan to do the same to mine to achieve an AL ANG bird. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CBREEZE Posted January 24, 2005 Share Posted January 24, 2005 jmel, Great looking build!!!!!!! Can you please tell me what you used for the plumbing detail? Thanks, Chuck B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 24, 2005 Author Share Posted January 24, 2005 Jake, check page 77 DACO book.............Mike V Thanks for the pointers, Mike. I see what you mean now about the pin boxes. I'm just getting started in the main wheel bay. It's almost too much to look at. I'm having trouble getting started with the plumbing, as it's pretty daunting. I realize that gear doors are different on the inside. I guess what I was asking is when the change occurred. Did it happen simultaneously with the bulged wheel of the block 40? Or did it happen earlier with block 30/32? I didn't know if the inside of the door was accurate even for the Hasagawa kit. Thanks again for the help. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 24, 2005 Author Share Posted January 24, 2005 jmel,Great looking build!!!!!!! Can you please tell me what you used for the plumbing detail? Thanks, Chuck B. Copper wiring mostly. I stripped the insulation off of some old car wiring, then cut off as much wiring as I needed. The silver wiring is left-over Eduard photo-etch. It fit fairly well. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 24, 2005 Author Share Posted January 24, 2005 The MLG (and NLG as well!) inside structure received it's major change at Block 40. Mike V Hasagawa doors it is! Thanks! Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 I had to step away from the MLG bays for a while. I chose to work in the engine bay for a while instead. Here's a dry-run with the engine installed. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 A shot of the bottom of the engine bay. I didn't too much work here, other than the addition of a few additional lines. Unfortunately, the engine will block most of the detail. It looks like my tripod was a little loose on this shot! Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 The top of the bay. As good as the kit's detail is, it just begs for some additional work. There's still lots of work to be done towards the rear of the bay. Good night to all. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith Diamond Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 awesome Jake, really awesome and I like it Whole lot easier than those Hasegawa conversions huh? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spang Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Jake, Very nice job. ;) SPang Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 Jake, what did you do to fill the seam inside the burner can? It's not really filled, only painted in a way that hides the seam, if that makes sense. I couldn't find a way to fill it without losing the ribbed detail. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 Whole lot easier than those Hasegawa conversions huh? You bet your arse it is. It's pretty exciting to be able to start construction right away, as opposed to scribing and riveting for a solid week first! Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 31, 2005 Author Share Posted January 31, 2005 Took a break from the wheel wells and engine bay to work on the cockpit. I've got to say, it is by far the most-detailed, accurate cockpit I've ever seen OOB. Amazing. Here's a few shots of the seat. Jake Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmel Posted January 31, 2005 Author Share Posted January 31, 2005 (edited) Another... The 178FW puts a small "Saber" decal on the seat. It's the same markings on the tail, but in yellow, with a large "O" next to the Saber. I'm still trying to figure out how to make this decal. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Edited January 31, 2005 by jmel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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