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TomcatFanatic123

First Attempt at preshading

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OK, bear with me here guys. I really want to preshade/weather my F-14 for the GB, and I was just wondering when I should do the preshading process. My question is this - I'm using the "chalk pastel wash" method from tools 'n' tips. Do I do this before I spraypaint, after I spraypaint, or do I do one coat, then do the wash, then another coat.

Thanks for the help! :cheers:

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Built, fill, sand everything you're going to build,fill and sand first. Then apply the preshade in black. The colors go over that. Just that simple. ;)

Great! Sounds real simple :cheers:

Thanks Habu! :cheers:

Another quick question...this will work with raised panel lines right?? :)

Edited by TomcatFanatic123

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Actually preshading is probably one of the better ways to give some definition to aircraft with raised panel lines. Post shading will work too.

As I read over your post again I was confused about something. Preshading is normally done with black or dark grey paint air-brushed on the panel lines (whether raised or recessed) then your base color, appropriately thinned so the darker line colors will show through, is sprayed over this. You mentioned chalk pastel wash also. This is used AFTER the model painting is done and the paint has been gloss coated. I'm not sure that a chalk pastel wash will work very well with raised panel lines; it is usually used with recessed lines to high-light them.

Edited by David Walker

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Question re: Raised panel lines.

Can you use pencil to shade raised panel lines, after you've finished doing the main coat?

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Question re: Raised panel lines.

Can you use pencil to shade raised panel lines, after you've finished doing the main coat?

Yep, did it on my Monogram 1/48 Prowler. Worked great.

Just make sure to do it on the gloss coat, that way wanderings (and they will occur!) are more easily removed.

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Hi Joe,

regarding using pencile, could you elaborate a bit more? like how did you do it. do you just draw along the line or actually hold pencile parallel to surface (kind of like brushing it). and what kind of pencile did you use? I am always afraid that HB will be too dark.

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The problem with highlighting with pencils is that you need to constantly keep the tip sharp, else it is probable that the line you're drawing isn't straight and then if you try to correct it you'll get another completely different result....

Yet it works wonders

However, Now that I've discovered Oil wash, I'm not going back!! :thumbsup:

Thanks to Joe for the Pencil technique too :worship:

Take Care

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With a raised panel line and a pencil I would lightly rub it down the line, much like dry-brushing. I think that would be a little easier than trying to parallel the line.

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:worship:

However, Now that I've discovered Oil wash, I'm not going back!! smile.gif

could you please explain the oil wash technique?

ihave used water colors and pastels ground into water... but not oils... how forgiving are they?

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:worship:

However, Now that I've discovered Oil wash, I'm not going back!! smile.gif

could you please explain the oil wash technique?

ihave used water colors and pastels ground into water... but not oils... how forgiving are they?

Sure :worship:

Oil washes are forgivin as long as you cover in an Acrilic coat first...

Now, the surface of the plane must be acrilic coated - else this won't work, you'll strip paint off the plane. Future works fine for this

Then, here's the tricky part. You must take Mineral Spirits and a GLOSS enamel color you'd like to color with (Gloss Black seems to work fine... Flats are Ok too but Gloss flow more even and smoother).

THE RATIO OF PAINT/MINERAL SPIRITS IS AROUND 1:10, 2:10

You take a fine brush and touch a panel line and watch the wash flow around the panel line. If the wash is a little too thick (which I prefer) you must force it around the panel lines, it will be messier, but it pays off at clean up.

Here's where you find out the Forgiving-ness of the trick, The thicker your mix is, the more filthy your kit will be... but once you start heavily weathering a kit, there's no going back... In few words, it is not as tough as it looks, but you must know what you want, if you over-weather you won't be able to return to a 100% original state.

Anyways, after you apply the wash, You wait a couple of hours, and then with a DAMP, DAMP, NOT SOAKED cloth in Mineral Spritis, and WIPE THE WASH in the DIRECTION OF THE AIRFLOW

Thats as far as I can take you... from here on, you'll have to experiment and find out... remember, experiment is the key to practice...I'll sugest you try it in test kit before you actually try it on your fav. kits :blink:

HTH, man :)

Take Care!!

Edited by MaRiO FDZ

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Guys, here's what I used for washing, I've tried oil wash, pencil technique (I sometimes still used this when the lines is shallow) but now I'm using a mixture of Badger airbrush cleaner and poster paint, it's very forgiving if you coat your model with gloss first, I can even clean it using dry cloth after it completely dried.

JAhja

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Thanks Mario...

i'll put his into my NATOPS on detailing...

and maybe try it on something small in the future... no way am i going to do it on my bug or the GB bird... :thumbsup:

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