hawkhornet Posted June 4, 2005 Share Posted June 4, 2005 hi guys has anyone here used the humbroil clear coats? i used matt clear on my f 104 and it has now yellowed anyone else got this problem? stav Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmike Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Not heard of Humbroil paints.... However the close equivalent, Humbrol does yellow and is a clear coat to be avoided. Get Pollyscale clear flat or close,being acrylic it will not yellow like enamel clears tend to do. MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RSV1000R Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Stav, Which Humbrol clear coat was this? The aerosol and tinned variety are to be avoided however the "Matt Cote" which comes in a clear glass jar is fine and I have no problems with it. Pollyscale is meant to be good but its not easy to find in the UK. Infact before I started using the Humbrol "glass jar" matt I looked around for various acrylic matt coats and could only find the Microscale product, which I am told is not great. As I mentioned because of lack of Pollyscale I have used "Matt Cote" for the last three models I have completed and it has worked fine. Ta, Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
reddeathdrinker Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Matt Cote is excellent, and I've used it on several models now, with excellent results. Gloss Cote, on the other hand, is poo. It takes an age to dry, and yellows within 3 months of application. I use tins of Halfords Clear Laquer for spraying gloss coats ow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Matt Cote is excellent, and I've used it on several models now, with excellent results.Gloss Cote, on the other hand, is poo. It takes an age to dry, and yellows within 3 months of application. I use tins of Halfords Clear Laquer for spraying gloss coats ow. OK Guys - before I go and ruin my Trumpeter 1:32 scale Su-27 Flanker....... Which gloss varnish - and then followed by matt after decalling - should I use??? I have used White Ensign enamels for the camo scheme - so acrylic varnishes (e.g. Halfords Clear) are out - unless I apply a barrier coat. I have purchased 3 tins each (it is a BIG model!) of Humbrol Gloss 35 and Matt 49 in anticipation - but you guys are putting me off with your talk of yellowing !! I am in the UK - so, as reddeathdrinker says - no Polyscale, Gunze etc. I need a good, non-yellowing, Gloss and Matt clear coat that is readily available in the UK. Grateful for input.......... Ken PS Halfords Clear (Gloss) and Games Workshop (Matt) are excellent acrylic varnishes - I have used them both in the past with great results - but I need something to go over enamel paints - Halfords Clear causes enamels to 'orange peel' - as I have discovered to my cost in the past. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RSV1000R Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Ken, I use : 1-Enamel paints (Xtracolor or Humbrol) 2-Future/Klear 3-Decals 4-Future/Klear 5*-Humbrol Matt Cote (*For gloss/semi-gloss finishes I use Future/Klear with Tamiya matting agent added to taste) The apparant "layering" of enamel-acrylic-enamel doesn't seem to have any ill effects at all. This is just my method however and everyone develops there own. HTH, Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmike Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 If you cannot get Pollyscale Acrylic Clear then try Vallejo Acrylic Matt finish. :D MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mikeew Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 (edited) Flankerman, in the UK try this site The Model Catalogue Excellent service and good prices too. I am a recent convert to Humbrol MattCote and cannot reccomend it highly emough, its very good. Vallejo acrylic matt varnish is good but not dead flat. But by all means avoid Microscale flat, it aint flat! more like satin. HTH, <_< Mike. Edited June 5, 2005 by Mikeew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grant Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Gloss Cote, on the other hand, is poo. It takes an age to dry, and yellows within 3 months of application. I use tins of Halfords Clear Laquer for spraying gloss coats ow. I am having the exact same problem with Gloss Cote. Must 4-5 weeks now and the model still feels tacky after holding it for a minute or so. Bad news about the yellowing, although my Cormorant is yellow, so hopefully not too much damage there. Halfords clear lacquer sounds an interesting option, as I haven't got on with spraying Klear. <_< GM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Gloss Cote, on the other hand, is poo. It takes an age to dry, and yellows within 3 months of application. I use tins of Halfords Clear Laquer for spraying gloss coats ow. I am having the exact same problem with Gloss Cote. Must 4-5 weeks now and the model still feels tacky after holding it for a minute or so. Bad news about the yellowing, although my Cormorant is yellow, so hopefully not too much damage there. Halfords clear lacquer sounds an interesting option, as I haven't got on with spraying Klear. :D GM Don't try it over enamels though ...!!!! And check out the Games Workshop Matt Varnish - it is sold as 'Purity Seal' Make sure you get the Matt varnish - there is a semi-gloss version that I have been palmed off with by the shop assistant who assured me that it was matt. The Matt version has a product code of 99209999027 - the semi-gloss has the same code - but the 'last three' is 013 instead of 027. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Yellowbelly Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 For me Model Master paint, Future, decals, Future and then Model Master Matt. With this combo I've had no problems - plenty of time to cure between Future applications so no cracking occurs between enamel and acrylic applications. Yellowbelly :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
karlwb Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 (edited) Hi, I've been using Humbrol 'Clear Cote' for ages now matt, satin and gloss without any problems; the satin and gloss does take ages to dry though. :blink: However, the Humbrol 'varnish' sold in tinlets and sprays should not be used as it will go yellow in a very short time indeed. I wish we could get a definitive clear coat in all flavours, and I don't like Future all that much for a gloss coat.... Karl Edited June 5, 2005 by karlwb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grant Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Don't try it over enamels though ...!!!! Hmmm. Good point. :blink: GM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Animal Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Hawkhornet, do not broil paints. Enamels especially do not take well to being heated. :blink: I'd prefer Future as I have yet to see the stuff yellow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Hi,I've been using Humbrol 'Clear Cote' for ages now matt, satin and gloss without any problems; the satin and gloss does take ages to dry though. :D However, the Humbrol 'varnish' sold in tinlets and sprays should not be used as it will go yellow in a very short time indeed. I wish we could get a definitive clear coat in all flavours, and I don't like Future all that much for a gloss coat.... Karl I have heard - on other NG's - that US 'Future' and UK 'Klear' are not exactly the same. Those that have used both say that a single coat of Future give a good gloss finish, whereas it takes a couple of coats of Klear to achieve the same results. Anyone had such an experience ?? Ken PS - I will scrap my two tins each of Humbrol Gloss and Matt - and seek out some 'proper' Humbrol Matt Cote. I have already tested a swatch of my White Ensign Flanker paints with a brushed-on coat of Klear - to no apparent ill-effect. So I will go with.. White Ensign enamels Klear (maybe two coats ?) - airbrushed Decals Klear - airbrushed Humbrol Matt Cote Thanks Guys... Now - whether to try and highlight thge panel lines (and ***** it all up) - or leave well alone ??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peebeep Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 (edited) whereas it takes a couple of coats of Klear to achieve the same results.Anyone had such an experience ?? I have always found that Klear requires several applications to get a good glossy surface, especially over matt finishes. Peebeep Edited June 6, 2005 by peebeep Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithery Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Flankerman, I can highly recommend using Future (or Klear) for your gloss coat, then Model Master Flat Clear lacquer for your matte. The Flat Clear gives a bullet-proof finish, and can be thinned quite nicely. I thin mine 50:50 with lacquer thinner, and one mist coat over Future gives a satin finish, while a second mist coat gives a dead flat finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bails Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Hi Stav. I have NOT used any of the Humbrol gloss coats however I feel their Matt Cote is the finest matt available. I have used most of the matts out there and Matt Cote is BY FAR the best for me. I thin it with a high quality lacquer thinner to about 60% Matt Cote to 40% thinner, then apply it in about 3 misted coats. The final finish is awesome in my judgement. I tried the Humbrol Matt VARNISH and it is lousy by comparison. The Varnish is rather dark in color to begin with whereas the Matt Cote is light/clearer. I don't forsee the Matt Cote "yellowing" down the road. Also, I never, ever get the dreaded white specs with Matt Cote. I purchase Matt Cote from Squadron. For gloss coats, I use only Model Master Gloss Clear Lacquer Finish, thinned to about 60% gloss to 40% lacquer thinner, again applied in thin coats....no yellowing after many years in the showcase when used as a final coat. Bails-In-Minnesota Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 I have had good experiences with model master acryl gloss and flat, and if acrylics are not feasible for your build, i've also had very good results with model master lacquer gloss and flat. the lacquer is nice because its a really good foundation, but acrylics are much easier to clean from the airbrush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AussiePaul Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 I stay away from Humbrol clear enamels altogether. Open up a tin - it's brown!!! Revell clear enamels on the other hand are crystal clear. I once left a tin open for months and it dried in the same state - crystal clear!!! Lately i've been using Revell gloss enamel for decals, followed by a sand/polish to get it to a mirror like finish so the decals won't silver. I then finish up with Gunze Acrylic matt thinned with Gunze Acrylic thinner. This stuff is amazing - %100 flat with no sheen whatsoever!!! Wunderbar!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AussiePaul Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 By the way, i don't feel there is a need for another gloss coat over the applied decals. Why would there be??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paholmes Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 I had a bit of a nightmare with Humbrol Gloss recenly. I had a model with a pure white finish, and I wanted to seal it with a nice, thick gloss coat. I laid the Humbrol gloss perhaps too thick (too much at once), and it turned a nice sickly shade of yellow. I find that if you are wanting to use Humbrol Clear Gloss, it should be used on a dark colored subject, as the yellowing doesn't seem to be visibly obvious. I am, however, switching to ModelMaster Matt and Gloss clear coats after I run out of the Humbrol, as I am a big fan of their Semi-Gloss already. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
karlwb Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 I stay away from Humbrol clear enamels altogether. Open up a tin - it's brown!!! Yep, that'll be the stuff in the tinlets.... The stuff in the glass jars is much better :huh: Karl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmike Posted June 8, 2005 Share Posted June 8, 2005 By the way, i don't feel there is a need for another gloss coat over the applied decals.Why would there be??? To protect decals from any washes applied, especially oil washes. MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AussiePaul Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Ok fair enough. I normally apply a pastel wash before decalling anyway, and touch up any areas on the applied decals that might need a little panel line highlighting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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