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Not heard of Humbroil paints....

However the close equivalent, Humbrol does yellow and is a clear coat to be avoided. Get Pollyscale clear flat or close,being acrylic it will not yellow like enamel clears tend to do.

:cheers:

MikeJ

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Stav,

Which Humbrol clear coat was this? The aerosol and tinned variety are to be avoided however the "Matt Cote" which comes in a clear glass jar is fine and I have no problems with it.

Pollyscale is meant to be good but its not easy to find in the UK. Infact before I started using the Humbrol "glass jar" matt I looked around for various acrylic matt coats and could only find the Microscale product, which I am told is not great.

As I mentioned because of lack of Pollyscale I have used "Matt Cote" for the last three models I have completed and it has worked fine.

Ta, Ed

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Matt Cote is excellent, and I've used it on several models now, with excellent results.

Gloss Cote, on the other hand, is poo. It takes an age to dry, and yellows within 3 months of application. I use tins of Halfords Clear Laquer for spraying gloss coats ow.

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Matt Cote is excellent, and I've used it on several models now, with excellent results.

Gloss Cote, on the other hand, is poo. It takes an age to dry, and yellows within 3 months of application. I use tins of Halfords Clear Laquer for spraying gloss coats ow.

OK Guys - before I go and ruin my Trumpeter 1:32 scale Su-27 Flanker.......

Which gloss varnish - and then followed by matt after decalling - should I use???

I have used White Ensign enamels for the camo scheme - so acrylic varnishes (e.g. Halfords Clear) are out - unless I apply a barrier coat.

I have purchased 3 tins each (it is a BIG model!) of Humbrol Gloss 35 and Matt 49 in anticipation - but you guys are putting me off with your talk of yellowing !!

I am in the UK - so, as reddeathdrinker says - no Polyscale, Gunze etc.

I need a good, non-yellowing, Gloss and Matt clear coat that is readily available in the UK.

Grateful for input..........

Ken

PS Halfords Clear (Gloss) and Games Workshop (Matt) are excellent acrylic varnishes - I have used them both in the past with great results - but I need something to go over enamel paints - Halfords Clear causes enamels to 'orange peel' - as I have discovered to my cost in the past.

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Ken,

I use :

1-Enamel paints (Xtracolor or Humbrol)

2-Future/Klear

3-Decals

4-Future/Klear

5*-Humbrol Matt Cote

(*For gloss/semi-gloss finishes I use Future/Klear with Tamiya matting agent added to taste)

The apparant "layering" of enamel-acrylic-enamel doesn't seem to have any ill effects at all. This is just my method however and everyone develops there own. HTH, Ed

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Flankerman,

in the UK try this site

The Model Catalogue

Excellent service and good prices too.

I am a recent convert to Humbrol MattCote and cannot reccomend it highly emough, its very good.

Vallejo acrylic matt varnish is good but not dead flat.

But by all means avoid Microscale flat, it aint flat! more like satin.

HTH,

<_<

Mike.

Edited by Mikeew
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Gloss Cote, on the other hand, is poo. It takes an age to dry, and yellows within 3 months of application. I use tins of Halfords Clear Laquer for spraying gloss coats ow.

I am having the exact same problem with Gloss Cote. Must 4-5 weeks now and the model still feels tacky after holding it for a minute or so. Bad news about the yellowing, although my Cormorant is yellow, so hopefully not too much damage there.

Halfords clear lacquer sounds an interesting option, as I haven't got on with spraying Klear.

<_<

GM

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Gloss Cote, on the other hand, is poo. It takes an age to dry, and yellows within 3 months of application. I use tins of Halfords Clear Laquer for spraying gloss coats ow.

I am having the exact same problem with Gloss Cote. Must 4-5 weeks now and the model still feels tacky after holding it for a minute or so. Bad news about the yellowing, although my Cormorant is yellow, so hopefully not too much damage there.

Halfords clear lacquer sounds an interesting option, as I haven't got on with spraying Klear.

:D

GM

Don't try it over enamels though ...!!!!

And check out the Games Workshop Matt Varnish - it is sold as 'Purity Seal'

Make sure you get the Matt varnish - there is a semi-gloss version that I have been palmed off with by the shop assistant who assured me that it was matt.

The Matt version has a product code of 99209999027 - the semi-gloss has the same code - but the 'last three' is 013 instead of 027.

Ken

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For me Model Master paint, Future, decals, Future and then Model Master Matt. With this combo I've had no problems - plenty of time to cure between Future applications so no cracking occurs between enamel and acrylic applications.

Yellowbelly :D

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Hi,

I've been using Humbrol 'Clear Cote' for ages now matt, satin and gloss without any problems; the satin and gloss does take ages to dry though. :blink:

However, the Humbrol 'varnish' sold in tinlets and sprays should not be used as it will go yellow in a very short time indeed.

I wish we could get a definitive clear coat in all flavours, and I don't like Future all that much for a gloss coat....

Karl

Edited by karlwb
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Hi,

I've been using Humbrol 'Clear Cote' for ages now matt, satin and gloss without any problems; the satin and gloss does take ages to dry though. :D

However, the Humbrol 'varnish' sold in tinlets and sprays should not be used as it will go yellow in a very short time indeed.

I wish we could get a definitive clear coat in all flavours, and I don't like Future all that much for a gloss coat....

Karl

I have heard - on other NG's - that US 'Future' and UK 'Klear' are not exactly the same.

Those that have used both say that a single coat of Future give a good gloss finish, whereas it takes a couple of coats of Klear to achieve the same results.

Anyone had such an experience ??

Ken

PS - I will scrap my two tins each of Humbrol Gloss and Matt - and seek out some 'proper' Humbrol Matt Cote.

I have already tested a swatch of my White Ensign Flanker paints with a brushed-on coat of Klear - to no apparent ill-effect.

So I will go with..

White Ensign enamels

Klear (maybe two coats ?) - airbrushed

Decals

Klear - airbrushed

Humbrol Matt Cote

Thanks Guys...

Now - whether to try and highlight thge panel lines (and ***** it all up) - or leave well alone ???

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whereas it takes a couple of coats of Klear to achieve the same results.

Anyone had such an experience ??

I have always found that Klear requires several applications to get a good glossy surface, especially over matt finishes.

Peebeep

Edited by peebeep
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Flankerman,

I can highly recommend using Future (or Klear) for your gloss coat, then Model Master Flat Clear lacquer for your matte. The Flat Clear gives a bullet-proof finish, and can be thinned quite nicely. I thin mine 50:50 with lacquer thinner, and one mist coat over Future gives a satin finish, while a second mist coat gives a dead flat finish.

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Hi Stav. I have NOT used any of the Humbrol gloss coats however I feel their Matt Cote is the finest matt available. I have used most of the matts out there and Matt Cote is BY FAR the best for me. I thin it with a high quality lacquer thinner to about 60% Matt Cote to 40% thinner, then apply it in about 3 misted coats. The final finish is awesome in my judgement. I tried the Humbrol Matt VARNISH and it is lousy by comparison. The Varnish is rather dark in color to begin with whereas the Matt Cote is light/clearer. I don't forsee the Matt Cote "yellowing" down the road. Also, I never, ever get the dreaded white specs with Matt Cote. I purchase Matt Cote from Squadron. For gloss coats, I use only Model Master Gloss Clear Lacquer Finish, thinned to about 60% gloss to 40% lacquer thinner, again applied in thin coats....no yellowing after many years in the showcase when used as a final coat.

Bails-In-Minnesota

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I have had good experiences with model master acryl gloss and flat, and if acrylics are not feasible for your build, i've also had very good results with model master lacquer gloss and flat. the lacquer is nice because its a really good foundation, but acrylics are much easier to clean from the airbrush.

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I stay away from Humbrol clear enamels altogether. Open up a tin - it's brown!!!

Revell clear enamels on the other hand are crystal clear. I once left a tin open for months and it dried in the same state - crystal clear!!!

Lately i've been using Revell gloss enamel for decals, followed by a sand/polish to get it to a mirror like finish so the decals won't silver. I then finish up with Gunze Acrylic matt thinned with Gunze Acrylic thinner. This stuff is amazing - %100 flat with no sheen whatsoever!!! Wunderbar!!!

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I had a bit of a nightmare with Humbrol Gloss recenly. I had a model with a pure white finish, and I wanted to seal it with a nice, thick gloss coat. I laid the Humbrol gloss perhaps too thick (too much at once), and it turned a nice sickly shade of yellow.

I find that if you are wanting to use Humbrol Clear Gloss, it should be used on a dark colored subject, as the yellowing doesn't seem to be visibly obvious.

I am, however, switching to ModelMaster Matt and Gloss clear coats after I run out of the Humbrol, as I am a big fan of their Semi-Gloss already.

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I stay away from Humbrol clear enamels altogether. Open up a tin - it's brown!!!

Yep, that'll be the stuff in the tinlets.... :cheers:

The stuff in the glass jars is much better :huh:

Karl

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By the way, i don't feel there is a need for another gloss coat over the applied decals.

Why would there be???

To protect decals from any washes applied, especially oil washes.

:cheers:

MikeJ

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