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What i've found that works is to buy a gallon of paint thinner at Home Depot. Get the klean strip brand. Its only 4$! Then get an old rag and get some thinner on it and rub the rag across the paint over and over agian and it should start to come off. Do this in a well ventilated area though. Good luck

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I've used auto brake fluid the older type I think DOT4 when I stripped some HO train engines. That was what was recommended by the LHS years ago. It worked with all types of factory HO paints, and did not harm the plastic. Now days I would wear rubber gloves to do the same stripping.

Don923(flylo)

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fingernail polish remover. . .the acetone free variety;

Apply with a paper towel and rub vigorously; the paint will come off in a matter of

seconds.

soak stripped parts in warm soapy water to remove any sticky residue.

I would reccomend also buffing the raw plastic with an abrasive series before re-painting.

I get great results with the FNPR stripping acrylics. . .(yesterday I stripped the hood of a 1/25th AMT 50 Ford convertible that had been painted with MM Acryl, and was able to remove all the paint in LESS THAN SIXTY SECONDS!) It also works superbly on Gunze, Tamiya and Polly Scale. (One of the best things about it is; it's cheap! Got a large bottle of "Sally Hansen" FNPR for only $1.00 at a local discount store).

HTH

:cheers:

Old Blind Dog

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:cheers: I have successfully used DOT 3 brake fluid to remove enamel paint. Soak for a couple of hours or so and scrub lightly with a cloth or Q Tips. It doesn't harm the plastic and is fairly user friendly. I would recommend outdoors or at least a fan blowing across in front of you. I don't know it this will work on acrylics or not. B)

Darwin

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I know this might sound stupid, but I have an old Has F4J I want to disassemble before I strip the paint. Do you have to break the parts off, or is there some miracle glue disolver that I can use. I put it together with Testors models cement and Microweld.

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I know this might sound stupid, but I have an old Has F4J I want to disassemble before I strip the paint. Do you have to break the parts off, or is there some miracle glue disolver that I can use. I put it together with Testors models cement and Microweld.

Stick the model in the freezer for several hours. . .in many cases that's all you need to loosen up the joints from MM liquid cement. . .

If the low-temperature method doesn't work completely, another thing you can do is soak the plastic for about an hour or so (monitoring it VERY CAREFULLY) in PollyS Easy-Lift-Off Remover; prolonged exposure will soften up the plastic enough to loosen joints made with Tenax, Weldbond or other similar adhesives; but be very careful, as too much will ruin the plastic altogether.

:cheers:

Old Blind Dog

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thanks for your responses guys....

so i treid Klean Strip and it did strip the paint but took too long...though i didn't have a problem with the plastic dissolving.

later i tried the non-acetone nail polish remover...and that worked just as well....but cut down the time to a fraction of what it was with Klean Strip

thanks agian.

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Gents:

If you are using brake fluid be careful. Having industrial experience with it I'd say you need plenty of ventilation and avoid eye contact. Additionally it ready goes bad if there's humidity. They are glycol based fluids that attract water. You can tell if this happens because they become milky.

MArk

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