hoosiershark Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I just used Model Master metalizers to do the engines and under side of a Hasegawa F-4. I sprayed the metalizer, used the sealer, and used future on top of that. After masking the areas with the usual tape, sections of the metalizer (or sealer) peeled off with the tape, and the whole tail section looked horrible. Maybe I should have waited a few extras days instead of just 24 hours. Any suggestions as to what happened and/or what to use to mask the metalizer areas before going on to the next color? I've heard wet newspaper and post-it notes from a few folks. I'm also thinking about using the Ambroid liquid mask, but I don't know if that will pull up the sealer too. I've got metalizer down on the back end of an F-15E now, and I don't want to run into the same problem after I shoot the gunship gray on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Erdferkel Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I usually seal it with a thicker layer of clear coat. Wait one or two day and mask it like anything else Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Animal Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 If you have future, that would work as a clear-coat. Give it a few days to dry and it should be able to seal in the Metalizer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sluggo2u Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 I've had better luck masking that area of, painting the airplane then doing the metalizer work right before clearcoating. If you have to paint it first, I'd use something lo tack like post-its. Sluggo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmike Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 I have heard wet newspaper works as well. Future will provide a good barrier, however the problem is the metalizer does not "bite" or key well into the plastic, even over a primer coat so no matter what you seal it with there is no stable foundation to prevent peeling or lifting. Personally I stay away from MM Metalizers as they are far too fagile. MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Murph Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Hoosiershark, You're better off not masking over MM Metalizers; they'll peel or rub off at the drop of a hat. If you are going to use them, apply them last after all other painting/clear/matte coating is done. Regards, Murph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul T Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 When it comes to MM metalizers (and I do use them) I pretty much use them for exhaust/burner cans ,WWII exhaust pipes, machine gun blast panels and the like.As said prior, if you do use them ,do so last after major painting is done. This is where Alclad really shines.But like many things in this hobbies ,specific tools for specific applications That said, you could try MM metalizer sealer ,applied in several light coats.But not to be used (in my opinion) on the buffing shades...ruins the effect. Paul T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phantom Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 I always do the metalizer last. Sometimes masking works, sometimes not, sometimes that purple mask works, sometimes not. Even after waiting days, sometimes it settles nice, others not so much. Now I do all the body colours leaving the metal pints till the last stage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Future will provide a good barrier, however the problem is the metalizer does not "bite" or key well into the plastic, even over a primer coat so no matter what you seal it with there is no stable foundation to prevent peeling or lifting. Unfortunately, any clear-coat over the Metalizer will tend to dull/grey the finish. I've always sprayed Metalizer over bare polished plastic, but I've read lots of posts here about spraying the plastic with glossy black before spraying the metalizer. This may allow the metalizer to bite better...? Even if you can get it to stick, masking without a clear coat, even with Post-its, can screw up the finish. I have heard wet newspaper works as well.Wet newspaper worked great for me on this F-104! I've only used it a few times since, and not for nearly as elaborate finishes as the 104. It wasn't that difficult to do either!I cut thin strips of newspaper from areas that didn't have ink on it, dipped it in water, and slapped it on. It slides around and is easily positioned while very wet. Thin strips will allow for some flexibility with compound curves without kinking, but pre-cutting curved strips where necessary works best. I applied the strips and as I positioned them, put larger pieces of wet newspaper on the masked side to help hold them in place. I did just 1 or 2 (opposite side of plane) panels at a time to deal with the short time span that the newspaper stays wet. After positioning the mask, dab away any excess water with tissue before spraying the Metalizer. Careful while spraying that you don't blow the mask off with too much air-pressure! Remove the mask and dry-up any water on the model as soon as your paint is dry (Metalizer dries Very fast!). DON'T leave any water on the model! It will spot! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 From the top... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
T-bone Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 I cut thin strips of newspaper from areas that didn't have ink on itDON'T leave any water on the model! It will spot! I use the wet paper technique as detailed by Zactoman except I use craft paper to avoid the newsprint problem and I use distilled water to prevent water spots. Don't make the paper too wet as it will drip or run onto the area being painted. Use a fresh section of paper each time to prevent the overspray from the prior mask from rubbing off and fouling your paint job somewhere else on the model-- not that this has ever happened to me! I also use the wet paper technique over any decals that I haven't had the chance top coat to prevent the masking material from lifting the decal off -- not that this has ever happened to me either!. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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