JohnReid Posted November 9, 2013 Author Share Posted November 9, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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JohnReid Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Because parts of this Camel kit are essentially already painted I will try to take advantage of this by roughening up the shiny plastic surface to give it more of the texture of wood and also prepare it for the pastels.(pastels will not stick to a shiny surface)I have experimented with different sandpapers etc.. and I have found that a very fine needle file works best for getting in and around the detail.Some fuzzy residue will be left behind but when I wash it down with an abrasive cleanser (Comet)it will be removed.It is a long and tedious job but it will be essential for this experiment to have a chance to work. If I decide to use acrylics after all the roughened surface will ensure that they stick as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 It is important throughout a shadow box build to check every once in awhile to see how things look under what will be the principal lighting source.In this case it will be somewhere from above but the final positioning will made only late in the build when the composition is finalized. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 There is a certain freedom and responsibility involved when working on a museum piece.The freedom comes in knowing that once it is in the case it will be subject to the best conditions possible and also will be maintained in the future. Therefore the use of some materials such as pastels is a realistic consideration, knowing they won't be handled a lot in that setting. Also painting figures is a lot easier when scale distance,lighting and angle of view can be established ,especially in shadowbox work. The responsibility lies in making sure that only the finest materials are used and that they will stand up to what can be the very polluted atmosphere of an enclosed case.To be on the safe side I have recommended that they allow for some air exchange. Metal is especially subject to corrosion so I seal it well and try not to use incompatible materials together. I have had a mixed media HMS Victory in a ventilated case for almost fifteen years now without any problems with corrosion or dust.Also the only material I used that doesn't have long standing durability record is a little super glue on the rigging.(I have since developed an allergy to it so that hasn't been a consideration for awhile now.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 14, 2013 Author Share Posted November 14, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 About a month ago I began building the new 1/16th Sopwith Camel for inclusion in my latest diorama for the Canada Aviation and Space Museum in Ottawa.It is my first plastic model airplane in about 15 years, during which I was working mostly in wood.Therefore I will be re-learning some old techniques and experimenting with some new ideas I have for finishing plastic to look like wood.Cheers! John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Click on picture for other views of this model. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Because parts of this Camel kit are essentially already painted I will try to take advantage of this by roughening up the shiny plastic surface to give it more of the texture of wood and also prepare it for the pastels.(pastels will not stick to a shiny surface)I have experimented with different sandpapers etc.. and I have found that a very fine needle file works best for getting in and around the detail.Some fuzzy residue will be left behind but when I wash it down with an abrasive cleanser (Comet)it will be removed.It is a long and tedious job but it will be essential for this experiment to have a chance to work. If I decide to use acrylics after all the roughened surface will ensure that they stick as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Please click here for more pictures of this buildth_0e62ce18-5bcb-4c5e-b797-ba70e7d8d794_ This post has been edited by JohnReid: 16 November 2013 - 07:02 AM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 It is very important not to be tempted to prematurely remove any parts from the sprues because as far as I can see now they will save you having to make a jig while assembling the fuselage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 I will put the composition back together now in order to see what parts of the Camel will actually be seen from a shadowbox perspective.There is no sense in building stuff that will never be seen.It did that when I built the Nieuport shadowbox and wasted a lot of time.At the time I was not planning to make it a shadowbox but I have some really nice pics of it from 360 degrees from before it was boxed up,so it wasn't s total loss. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnReid Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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