Spraying a Future coat

[Kinky Afro]

FAO Uk based modellers. Searched for a while trying to find a Ammonia based glass cleaner like windex but struggled. Mr muscle and windolene dont appear to contain ammonia. Just stubbled accross this stuff. Does anyone use this with Klear/Future or does ayone know why this would not work like Windex? Thanks

http://www.shop-com.co.uk/Jeyes_Kleen_Off_...3;.shtml?trk=18

[Phantom ordie]

How about straight or thinned ammonia?

[Peil]

I'm wondering, would car washer fluid work?

[TXCajun]

Low PSI (I use about 10psi)

Fine mist

Use multiple light coats vs. one or two heavy coats. That has been my experience.

Old painters will tell you acrylics (like Future) don't like being painted on top of enamels. Light coats built up slowly work much better.

[tempestwulf]

I need to future and decal my 1/48 B-1B, so Im guessing the brush method wouldnt look too good on such a large model. the model is painted with a flat gunship grey, and i need to future it to lay on the decals. I will try the 3 parts future 1 part windex method and low pressure, i just dont want to screw it up. Anymore tips? How many coats of future should i put on there? how long should i wait between coats? thanks!

I sprayed my 1/72 F-4J and it sprayed well but took a few coats. 1/3 filled a Tamiya 10ml (the big jar type) with future and about 4 drops of Windex. Sprayed fine but took a few coats and make sure you don't pool it. I've brushed future straight from the bottle only my 1/48 Spitfires and they came out fine, actaully gives a smoother finish compared to airbrushing.

I'm actually on the fence as to the best option in either airbrushing which covers more and is faster, or brush application which add's smoother and thicker coats. Both though dry evenly and gloss.

[limyc]

i have a question for people hand painting future, lets say im handpainting future on a vertical surface, after applying it and waiting a few minutes, i notice there seem to be a larger amount of future pooling at the lower edges. was it due to gravity or the coating was too thick?

[BlueNosers352nd]

You can cut your drying time down to 1/6th of the time by using a food dehydrator. When futuring canopies, I pot them in the dehydrator and in 4 hrs or so can handle it.

[Weebles]

I've been experimenting with flat finishes over future and of course came here to do some research first. I found the information very helpful and confusing. Here's my story. I painted a sample piece of plastic a dark gray using White Ensign Models enamel as part of my flat finish experiment. I then shot a coat of future mixed with a few drops of Windex over the sample with my airbrush. The surface wasn't particularly rough but it did look grainy. I noticed that a number of people complained about future looking "pebbley" and was wondering if this is what they were talking about. I then tried sanding down the future and adding subsequent coats. After adding about 5 coats and achieving a very smooth surface it was clear that this grainy effect was never going to go away. Next I experimented with brushing on the Future. This went on extremely well and even after sanding and another 5 coats it looked pretty much the same as what I had airbrushed. So at the end of the day I concluded if you put Future over a flat finish you are going to see the grain of the flat paint. As stated when you shoot a flat finish over the future that grainy effect goes away and it looks terrific.

Dave

[hooknladderno1]

Hello,

I am new to aircraft modeling, and recently applied Future to all of the "glass" on the Bell Jetranger that I am working on. Per a friend's suggestion, the clear pieces were left on the sprues, washed with mild detergent and rinsed in water, and dried. The parts were then dipped in Future, and any excess on the bottom edge was wicked away with an absorbent paper towel. The parts were then set aside to dry and covered to avoid dust settleing on them. I was very pleased with the result. The model is masked and awaiting final color coats. Hope this helps those who have never worked with Future before.

David

[gotarheelz14]

Has anyone else NOT had problems spraying future? I sprayed it over some Tamiya acrylic today and I think it actually went on quite nice. I didn't see any problem with it. What is supposed to be wrong with it?

[C-130CrewChief]

The grainy effect went away when I added windex to my airbrush.

[Janissary]

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Edited November 11, 2009 by zidane

[doose]

I was scared off of future after I sprayed some over a beautiful A-4 aggressor and got an awful orange peel/pebble like finish. The same thing happened on an A-7. Thank you for the info on this thread, I will try all of the suggestions and see how it works (on an old model first eh??).

Cheers.

[RichardL]

Today was my first time airbrushing Future, and the result turned out to be very good. I just sprayed it straight through my Paasche Talon (awesome airbrush) over Aeromaster Warbird Acrylics and got a nice glossy sheen without any orange peeling.

[Unit19]

Hi, Mark!

That was amazing! I've never heard of using Future on real aircraft. After that, it will work on models for sure!

Keep up the good work!

Thanks,

Vlad

Future was regularly applied to corporate aircraft rubber de-icing boots to make them shine when I was a young lineman many moons ago. I polished many a boot with it. The only problem was it dries to a pretty hard surface, so if the pilot needed to inflate the boots due to icing, it would crack and look terrible. So, you had to remove the old polish and re-apply it.

[kaysersoze]

i have a question for people hand painting future, lets say im handpainting future on a vertical surface, after applying it and waiting a few minutes, i notice there seem to be a larger amount of future pooling at the lower edges. was it due to gravity or the coating was too thick?

its gravity at work. i apply it using a wide flat edged brush, long strokes etc. when it naturally gravitates to the botton, a gentle (almost touching but not quite) application of kitchen roll/absorbant paper and it wicks the excess away.

hth.

[tobiK]

for the guys in germany, I want to try as a substitute for windex

Denkmit GlasreinigerNF 500ml

dm-drogerie markt GmbH + Co. KG

Carl-Metz-Straße 1

76185 Karlsruhe

Identifikationsnummer: dm N1

· AQUA

· ALCOHOL

· SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE

· PARFUM

· DENATONIUM BENZOATE

· PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL

· AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE

I got the information from the datasheet of the "denkmit glasreininger", and AMMONIUM HUYDROXIDE is mentioned, but alcohol too (that fastens the drying of future?).

lets see....i want to get rid of the future orange peel!

[datahiker]

I understand the whole Windex-eliminates-orange-peel thing, but I sprayed Future and the coat dried with a gritty finish. Can anyone explain what happened? Was it drying before it hit the model? I was using lower pressure - no more than 15 psi, probably closer to 10, but I was also holding the airbrush farther from the model than I would for paint.

If that's it, will a flash coat of Windex smooth it out, even if it's already cured?

[tobiK]

so now for the german guys around: I ve purchased VISS "Glas & Flaechen", 750 mL, at DM drugstore. It has a real ammonium smell! The other stuff I mentioned above had not. And yes, it has a blue color too! Works really well to remove future, and you can thin it. Neverthelss I did not got a high gloss surface even sing this tuff. So I will have to do some mikromesh wet polisihinglater.

[doose]

Well, I just saw from another thread, I think it was "for a smooth gloss coat or finish", not totally sure. In that thread someone mentioned that thinning Future with windex or any ammonia based fluid would attack acrylic paint. Please, can someone help on this? The future/windex idea is working very well but I don't want my paint job to be ruined by this mix. Anyone had any acrylic (or any paint for that matter!) paint crazed or attacked when thinning Future with Windex???? Thanks.

[datahiker]

Well, I just saw from another thread, I think it was "for a smooth gloss coat or finish", not totally sure. In that thread someone mentioned that thinning Future with windex or any ammonia based fluid would attack acrylic paint. Please, can someone help on this? The future/windex idea is working very well but I don't want my paint job to be ruined by this mix. Anyone had any acrylic (or any paint for that matter!) paint crazed or attacked when thinning Future with Windex???? Thanks.

I haven't had a problem as long as the acrylic is completely cured. I'm only adding a drop or two of Windex, though (enough to break surface tension), and I apply light coats.

[doose]

Ok, sounds good. I always make sure every paint coat dries at least 24hrs before adding another coat, future, etc...etc. I will make sure to keep the windex light on the quantity. Thank you for your reply.

[balls47]

Got this idea from Rodney Williams, and it works great. He did a 1/48 scale Monogram F-18 in Blue Angels markings. He sanded his lacquer finish down with 2000 wet/dry sandpaper. Then, he mixed up a concoction of 4 oz. of Future and 8 oz. of denatured alcohol. He picked a nice cool morning and started spraying away at the model and came up with a great gloss finish. I had a model ready to decal, except for the gloss surface. I mixed up Rodney's mixture of 1 part Future to 2 parts denatured alcohol. I sprayed this over a flat painted (enamel) surface. I came up with the nicest, glossiest surface you could ask for to apply decals. It works great!

[Spectre711]

Not sure if it was mentioned but you can thin it with the cheap blue windshield washer fluid for your car if you don’t have any Windex. Just don’t use any with the additive that makes the water bead up like the RainX Brand.

The blue blends in and will not be noticeable.

[andrew.deboer]

I found out last night that Future could be used over Model Master enamel the same day the paint was applied. I'm in a hurry to get a model done, and the paint was dry to the touch, so I threw caution to the wind and started laying down decals, placing each one into a brushed-on spot of Future with a coat of Future over the top of the decal. When done with all of the decals, I loaded up the airbrush and put a coat of Future over the whole model to even out the finish at flat-coat time. Unless I get home after work to find the model a mass of crazed paint and wrinkled decals, I gotta call this a success.

Makes the floor shiny too.