crazydon Posted August 28, 2005 Share Posted August 28, 2005 Hey Guys, I figure this will be my pinned thread, a place where people can post info on anything they know on how certain kits go together...here's some things I know since I've been screwing up BoB models for years 1/48th Tamiya Spitfire Mk I The things that you need to do to turn this into a "proper" BoB Spitfire are 1st trim the protruding machine gun barrels off the outside wings ports. Tamiya used the early production drawings as a guide here IIRR. It was also very common for British aircraft to use cloth dope patches over the MG's, red in color. Alot of BoB Spitfire Mk I's had armor plate added behind the pilot's headrest. I've been using a Eduard P.E set as a guide for years to make this out of sheet stock. Cut a triangle 1 centimeter in shape, then sand the top corner down level 2 MM's to flaten the top, then round off the bottom corners slightly and your good to go. This goes behind part #B-6 with the hole cut about 2 MM's from the top. Tamiya 1/48th Bf 109E Series The only thing people need to watch out for are the struts on the tailplanes (parts A-6 and A-7). Their a bit short so if you use them for alignment you'll get a slight downward angle on your tailplanes. Hasegawa Hurricane Mk I This is one I never finshed, because I got put off by the nose fit a bit (I might bring it back out for the build) Hasegawa molded the nose seperate so they could use the same rear fuselage rear 1/2's for a Mk II...this makes the forward fit "fiddley" What I plan on doing next time is gluing the sides to the fuselage 1/2's then gluing the two halfs together. Also, watch the kit instructions...Hasegawa has you shave a part of the tailwheel fairing off..this is correct for a Mk II but wrong for the Mk I...also, don't use kit part #K-15...thats bomb fusing controls from the Mk II kit.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crazydon Posted August 28, 2005 Author Share Posted August 28, 2005 Hey Doc, you want to move this go ahead...I'm new to this GB moderating stuff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted August 28, 2005 Share Posted August 28, 2005 I can see where this thread will be extremely helpful even if I don't have a chance to participate in this group build. Great idea! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crazydon Posted August 29, 2005 Author Share Posted August 29, 2005 (edited) I can see where this thread will be extremely helpful even if I don't have a chance to participate in this group build. Great idea! Hey David, I thought so too....I see people asking questions all the time on models so for this it would be great if we had a handy dandy stop.... I've got the 1/48th Hasegawa Emil on the table too...I had trouble with the cockpit fit but that could have been the way I built it...and the RoG Bf 109E-4/7 is cheaper in Europe from what I gather so I don't want to put people off on that one... Edited August 29, 2005 by crazydon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarylH Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 Good idea Don! :D B) 2 thumbs up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crazydon Posted August 29, 2005 Author Share Posted August 29, 2005 Good idea Don! :D B) 2 thumbs up! Thanks...now...if I can only finsh a model B) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dr Fester Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 Alot of BoB Spitfire Mk I's had armor plate added behind the pilot's headrest. Don, I'm guessing this is the armour plate of which you speak? So my next question what colour should it be, the same green as the cockpit colour? Also what colour green do you all use for Spitfire cockpits? I use Tamiya paints and the instructions call for the usual cocktail of 3 Tamiya colours!! XF-5,XF-21 & XF-65. Look forward to your replys Doc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crazydon Posted August 29, 2005 Author Share Posted August 29, 2005 Thats the one Doc, paint it the same color as the rest of the cockpit...thats what I do...got some pictures of the Spit Mk I at the BoB Musuem that have it like that I either use that Tamiya mix or Modelmaster British Interior Green...only reason I have the Tamiya mix is I used that when I started out and made a big batch..its still good. White Ensign has a good range of British WWII colors... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chuck1945 Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Don's comments about the 1/48 Tamiya Spitfire I scale down to the 1/72 version as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hector Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Crazydon, I heard that in bith 109s tamiyas one its correct and the other has a mistake. Can I do a 109 E-3 with 109 E-4/7? <_< Good idea this thread. :lol: Héctor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crazydon Posted August 31, 2005 Author Share Posted August 31, 2005 Crazydon, I heard that in bith 109s tamiyas one its correct and the other has a mistake.Can I do a 109 E-3 with 109 E-4/7? <_< Good idea this thread. :lol: Héctor Hey Hector, Tamiya made a mistake on the 1st issue of their 1/48 Bf-109E-3..nose profile was wrong...they corrected the mistake when they issued the Bf109E-4/7's...and started boxing the corrected version in the E-3 issues that have "Made in the Phillipines" on the endflap..any E-3 with "Made in Japan" is the 1st issue. Most of those are off the shelves by now but you still see them at swap meets and the odd store with older stock... The main difference kitwise between a E-3 and and E-4/7 is the canopy parts...the E-3 kit will have the early style canopy parts...the E-4 the latter style...since allot of E-3's had latter style canopy retofitted all you have to do is find markings for a Emil that fits the canopy style and your set there... If your doing the Tamiya Bf 109E-4/7 in 1/48th scale do this... Step #3...don't drill the holes for the drop tanks Step 4...use the parts called out for "B and C"...thats adding part #A-13 Step #8...no white sidewall on the tailwheel tire Step #9 use part B-28 for the spinner (check references to make sure the pointed spinners were'nt used on the plane you choose markings for..odds are it won't be but better safe than sorry) Step #10, don't shave off the top of part #A20...leave as for plane "B" The 1/72 scale version is the same way, except the last 2 steps are 7 and 9 on the 1/72 scale instructions..and no whitewall tires :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 Step #9 use part B-28 for the spinner (check references to make sure the pointed spinners were'nt used on the plane you choose markings for..odds are it won't be but better safe than sorry) I might suggest further replacing the spinner and prop blades altogether with the Ultracast set appropriate to your spinner type. (they stock all three) They've done a much better job with both the blade and spinner shape as can be seen from this comparison of the kit and resin parts: http://www.ultracast.ca/products/48/128/default.htm They also make a resin exhaust set that is much nicer than the kit's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crazydon Posted September 1, 2005 Author Share Posted September 1, 2005 David's right, thats the one weak area on the Tamiya kit in 1/48 scale...shape of the props...their a bit to skinny.... I just got that set for the Trop Emil I'm doing....my BoB Emil's I plan on doing OOB so I can't use any aftermarket.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lansen Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 (edited) Here are some useful tricks for Airfix 1/72 Spitfire Mk.I, by Martin Waligorski of IPMS-Stockholm: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/1997...ix_spitfire.htm And here's a list of accessories: Aeroclub V030 5 slot Dunlop baloon tires V036 Undercarriage legs and wheels P083 Propeller Airwawes AC72-17 Etched set with cockpit details, radiator inset, torque links, wheel hub caps, rearview mirror. AC72-70 Resin control surfaces. AC72-73 Resin wheels, including tailwheel. AC72-76 Etched flaps, gun bay details and various hatches. Falcon 72-2 RAF Fighers WW2, vacuform canopies Squadron SQ9123 Vacuform canopy Edited September 1, 2005 by Lansen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lasermonkey Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 Hiya, For anyone building the Special Hobby 1/72 Beaufort, I have picked up an error in the instructions that could catch you out. In sections 5 and 6, they show parts E24 (the wheelwell bulkheads) upside down. In section 7, the instructions show these parts in place the right way up. Get it wong, and you'll have the Devil's own job trying to get the undercarriage legs to locate into anything! Hope this helps, Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hector Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 Crazydon, I heard that in bith 109s tamiyas one its correct and the other has a mistake.Can I do a 109 E-3 with 109 E-4/7? :blink: Good idea this thread. Héctor Hey Hector, Tamiya made a mistake on the 1st issue of their 1/48 Bf-109E-3..nose profile was wrong...they corrected the mistake when they issued the Bf109E-4/7's...and started boxing the corrected version in the E-3 issues that have "Made in the Phillipines" on the endflap..any E-3 with "Made in Japan" is the 1st issue. Most of those are off the shelves by now but you still see them at swap meets and the odd store with older stock... The main difference kitwise between a E-3 and and E-4/7 is the canopy parts...the E-3 kit will have the early style canopy parts...the E-4 the latter style...since allot of E-3's had latter style canopy retofitted all you have to do is find markings for a Emil that fits the canopy style and your set there... If your doing the Tamiya Bf 109E-4/7 in 1/48th scale do this... Step #3...don't drill the holes for the drop tanks Step 4...use the parts called out for "B and C"...thats adding part #A-13 Step #8...no white sidewall on the tailwheel tire Step #9 use part B-28 for the spinner (check references to make sure the pointed spinners were'nt used on the plane you choose markings for..odds are it won't be but better safe than sorry) Step #10, don't shave off the top of part #A20...leave as for plane "B" The 1/72 scale version is the same way, except the last 2 steps are 7 and 9 on the 1/72 scale instructions..and no whitewall tires So, If I want to do a better 109 E-3 , Can I buy a tamiyas 109 E4/7 to do a 109 E-3? You know a lot of things about this kit, many thanks. Héctor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 The only real difference between the E-3 "Made in the Phillipines" kit and the E-4/7 is the canopy sprue. But as Don mentioned many E-3s (and E-1s for that matter) were retrofitted with the squared off canopy so you could use either kit to do an E-3 depending on it's configuration. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crazydon Posted September 1, 2005 Author Share Posted September 1, 2005 What dave said Hector...we'll talk you through.....there are plenty of E-4's that served in the Battle was well as E-3 with the newer canopy....get the E-4 kit if your worried and if you decide on a E-3 with the early canopy I have a spare set i can send you..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hector Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 (edited) Many thanks David and Crazydon, I´m looking for buying a 109 to do for this Gb but first of all I have to finish Corsair and spit , 109, then I decide to build it. Regards. Héctor Edited September 2, 2005 by Hector Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crazydon Posted September 2, 2005 Author Share Posted September 2, 2005 No problem Hector....you've got loads of time and guys here to help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Falkirk1298 Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 "1/48th Tamiya Spitfire Mk I The things that you need to do to turn this into a "proper" BoB Spitfire are" Place the kit parts over a decent set of plans (in fact almost any set of plans except the ones Tamiya used to design the kit) Reprofile the wing trailing edge Reduce the wing root chord Reduce the fuselage thickness at the wing root Lengthen the fuselage THEN you can start bothering about cosmetic things like: "1st trim the protruding machine gun barrels off the outside wings ports. Tamiya used the early production drawings as a guide here IIRR. It was also very common for British aircraft to use cloth dope patches over the MG's, red in color. Alot of BoB Spitfire Mk I's had armor plate added behind the pilot's headrest. I've been using a Eduard P.E set as a guide for years to make this out of sheet stock. Cut a triangle 1 centimeter in shape, then sand the top corner down level 2 MM's to flaten the top, then round off the bottom corners slightly and your good to go. This goes behind part #B-6 with the hole cut about 2 MM's from the top." John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Falkirk1298 Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 Hasegawa Hurricane Mk I I'd recommend looking at the Airfix 1/48th kit rather than the Hasegawa one, it's better looking and easier to build. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grant in West Oz Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 (edited) "1/48th Tamiya Spitfire Mk IThe things that you need to do to turn this into a "proper" BoB Spitfire are" Place the kit parts over a decent set of plans (in fact almost any set of plans except the ones Tamiya used to design the kit) Reprofile the wing trailing edge Reduce the wing root chord Reduce the fuselage thickness at the wing root Lengthen the fuselage John G'day Falkirk 1298, John. I have often heard there are errors with the Tamiya Spitfire, so with your prompting, I took all my Spittie kits out and subjected them to measurements. The only printed plan I have is Aireview 1/32 scale sheet No. 408 by M Matouba dated 1979. I hope that isn't the plan Tamiya used, (I don't think it is because it doesn't show the wheel well reinforcements they moulded on their Mk.Vb). What plan do you recommend? At wing frame 3, Tamiya and Airfix both measure 78.35mm and at frame 21, 38.55mm. With the exception of Hasegawa's (Gartex) Mk.Vc Trop, wing (50.8mm) they all mic.ed to within 0.75mm of 52.1mm at frame 3 and 26.6mm at frame 21. At what does your research put those dimensions in full sized? Fuselage width? or depth? Anyway, across station 11, the Tamiya kit parts measure 17.47mm, the same as Airfix, Otaki is 18.28mm, ans Academy Mk.XIV, 17.93mm, ICM . Aireview plan 26.95mm. Now, as the fuselage length from Station 5 to rudder post is the same on all marks, I'd be very interested in any measurements you have from a full sized aircraft, they are a bit thin on the ground in the antipodes. Kit measurements. Tamiya 127.70mm, same as Airfix, Academy 129.06mm, Otaki 129.12, ICM 131.65. Aireview plan 193mm. As I sit here after a couple of hours of checking, I'm bemused to find the much vaunted Airfix kit's accuracy seems to be the yardstick for the incorrect Tamiya model. Oops, tsk! I'll be looking forward to your responses and recommendation for an accurate kit from which I can construct an acceptable Mk.I/II. G Edit: I've added an image of a drawing I'm doing to show where the measurements were made. G Edited January 3, 2006 by Grant in West Oz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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