Can someone fill me in on filler?

[gm0wnr]

Hi All

Pretty new to all this model mullarkey, but am enjoying it hugely, i notice how the time can dissapear when I go into the workshop, 10 min becomes an hour etc..... Anyway my question is multi parted

1) what filler would you guys recommend?

2) Can you mix the filler with anything to "thin it out" and make it easier to apply?

3) How long do you leave it to dry before you start to rub it down.

I have been using Revell "plasto" filler, but don't find it particularly easy to work with as it is supplied.

Thanks a lot

Alex

[Paul T]

Welcome to ARC Alex.

I myself ,and probably many here do,use Tamiya putty.It come in a squeeze tube and may be applied as is with a small spatula or similar device or if you need it a little thinner ,I mix it with a bit of "pure" acetone.I say pure ,as apposed to a nail polish remover,which has additives mixed to it.

I squeeze a portion of putty into a plastic measuring container (you have to be careful,as to what kind of container you use as it pertains to plastics,as the acetone /putty mixture will eat through it,and you`ll have a nice mess on your table) or use glass etc. Add the acetone a drop at a time ,until you have the thickness you desire.

As per dry time ,it really depends on how thick the application of putty is.A good bet is a day to allow to cure and harden properly.Then sand as needed.

Depending on what you are filling ,you could use the nail polish & Q-tip/cotton bud trick.Apply putty to seam ,let dry for a few minutes,then ,with a Q-tip soaked in nail polish remover ,remove the excess putty ,until the seam is smooth and level.Then allow to dry.

HTH

Paul T

[MarkusN]

Also remember: All the thinner that you add to putty will directly result in increased shrinkage. So in cases where you use the putty to fill gaps, not a good idea. It's less of a concern when filling sink holes, as you usually overfill and sand smooth there.

[jug-junkie]

I'll go with Tamiya, but if the gap is quite big you might try stretched sprue. Heat it up, stretch it to the required width, and then cut to size and glue in place. Leave it for about 24 hours and then sand. The best thing about this is it creates a perfect seal with out "sinking" or excess.

Geoff

[Paul T]

I should have mentioned,that I also use pieces of plastic card to fill ,then glue and trim,then sand.Also,for deeper,larger gaps, I use a 2 part epoxy putty...works great,smooth with alcohol and a Q-tip or finger tip, dried rock hard,sands nicely and does not shrink.

Paul T

[jjuwana]

Hi Alex, I use CA glue or Krazy glue or super glue for most of my filling need, it dries fast I give it 2 minutes approx of drying time, for big gaps I thicken it a li'l by le it sit for a while in a container, CA glue is the best option I can say if you work in a hurry like I do, it dries fast so no more waiting for a day or two :lol:

JAhja

[Chuck1945]

I too use CA as a filler, the only catch is if you let it completely set (24 hours +-) it will be harder then the plastic and very difficult to sand out. Use CA if you intend to work on the area within the next hour, debonder or even acetone based nail polish remover on a Q-tip can also be used to smooth a CA filled joint.

For fine scratches or seams, Gunze's liquid filler (Mr Surfacer 500 or 1000) works very well too. It can be sanded or smoothed with an alcohol soaked Q-tip.

Solvent based putties such as Acryl-Blue, Tamiya, etc all shrink as they dry and are also softer then the surrounding plastic. This makes sanding easier, but it may also make scribing harder.

You will find there are many different situations that require a filler of some type and different products will work better in different situations. For example water thinned white glue is often used a filler around canopies since it will not mar the clear surface and can be rubbed down with a damp Q-tip (major shrinkage also occurs so multiple applications are often required)

[gm0wnr]

Many thanks to all who replied with the advice on the filler question, I suppose its just a question of trial and error, mostly error on my part, and a good lot of experience, I like the sound of the milliput stuff, and will maybe give that a go, thanks again

Alex

[doctorpepper]

I should have mentioned,that I also use pieces of plastic card to fill ,then glue and trim,then sand.Also,for deeper,larger gaps, I use a 2 part epoxy putty...works great,smooth with alcohol and a Q-tip or finger tip, dried rock hard,sands nicely and does not shrink.

Paul T

i too find this the best option for large gaps - it also allows the mating surfaces to be evenly mated, and provides additional strength. i usually fill with plastic card, leaving just a little for putty/CA to handle, that way i don't have much shrinkage to deal with either.

i hate shrinkage. i've had cases of putty shrinking after 3 to 4 days, or as paint is applied, can't figure that out; irritates me like hell

[mkimages]

Head down to your local auto-parts store and pick up a tube of Bondo Spot Glazing Putty (not the Bondo in a can). It only costs 3 or 4 bucks and will last for a very long time (big tube). It fills great, dries quickly, sands easily and has minimal shrinkage. It also works very well with the "Filling without Sanding" tip in the Tools 'n' Tips section of the main ARC page. I've used it on my last few kits and really don't see myself using any other type of putty from here on out (though I do use CA and Mr. Surfacer for various filling tasks).

[VF-x]

I've been using Testor's red putty. Can acetone be applied to this compound as well?

[Bri2k]

I use Squadron putty for large gaps (rumor is it can be thinned with water) and CA "superglue" for smaller gaps. I'll have to try that Bondo Spot Glazing Putty. As my car is composed of 60% Bondo I should feel right at home using it.

Bri2k

[venom1]

My filler of choice is a mixture of Humbrol Liquid Poly and Tamiya Putty. Tamiya Putty by itself is pretty useless (goes off too quick), but the Liquid Poly makes it vey workable and easy to use. I mix the two together in a jar lid, and depending on the gaps to fill, I vary the consistancy with more or less Liquid Poly.

I appy with an old paintbrush (I have a few of different sizes purely for this task) and when finished, clean the brushes with the Liquid Poly. I have a bottle of poly set aside for this task, as it gets contaminated with putty pretty quickly. Liquid Poly is also great for cleaning stubborn paint out of brushes!

When the putty starts to dry out and solidify in the lid, I just add more Liquid Poly, and hey presto! Back to being usable again.

Most of my sanding work is done with the usual grades of wet and dry sandpaper. I will sand dry to start with, then move on to wet, continuing until I have the required finish. When done, I will usually brush paint silver along where sanding has taken place. This shows up any imperfections that may need more work. Also, if I need to protect panel lines, I will lay masking tape along either side of the filling area, which will protect any panel line detail during sanding.

Canopies are polished with Micromesh and then buffed with Tamiya Finishing compound, followed by the usual dip in acrylic floor polish (Future to most modellers).

Hope you can get a few pointers from my little novel!

Cheers,

Sam

(Yay for copy + paste.....)

[JohnG]

I use Bondo... the auto filler. It comes in bigger quantities for cheaper than hobby putty, and is just as good. In fact, Testor's red putty pretty much IS Bondo.