Is Mr.Surfacer 1000 acrylic??

[Dan 88]

I just got a bottle of Mr.Surfacer today and I wanted to know like the title says, and also how do I use it. ;)

[Bob Rock]

I beleive that Mr Surfacer is lacquer based.You can apply it with a brush to hide small scratches or seams.It can also be used as a primer,if airbrushing just thin it well,around 60% with lacquer thinner ,otherwise it will spray "spiderwebs".It is also excellent primer for Alclad II. ;)

[modelman62]

I just got a bottle of Mr.Surfacer today and I wanted to know like the title says, and also how do I use it.

Ive always thinned mine down with ACETONE, its much less hotter than lacquer and wont tend to melt the plastic.

[MarkusN]

Ive always thinned mine down with ACETONE, its much less hotter than lacquer and wont tend to melt the plastic.

Huh?!

Acetone is one main ingredient of liquid plastic glues. It definitely is a solvent for styrene.

I do believe that it works as a thinner for Mr. Surfacer, since it evaporates quickly, but don't feel too safe when using it around styrene.

[modelman62]

Ive always thinned mine down with ACETONE, its much less hotter than lacquer and wont tend to melt the plastic.

Huh?!

Acetone is one main ingredient of liquid plastic glues. It definitely is a solvent for styrene.

I do believe that it works as a thinner for Mr. Surfacer, since it evaporates quickly, but don't feel too safe when using it around styrene.

Yeah, what I should have added was, dont go overboard on getting it on the plastic, cause it will melt it if you get to much on their.

[MoFo]

Yes, the particulate in Mr. Surfacer is acrylic. The carrier (thinner) is lacquer based, however. When Alclad says to use an acrylic lacquer primer for their paints, Mr. S is the kind of thing they're talking about.

For airbrushing, it thins well with lacquer thinner, and as long as you don't pool it on, you won't have any issues with crazing, plus the LT will give the paint more bite. Build your paint coat up slowly and it'll be fine. It does have to be thinned pretty heavily, though. If it's not quite thin enough, you will get a stringy, spider-web like build-up of Mr. S off the end of your airbrush; if this happens, just add more thinner. Any surface imperfections can be wet sanded out with some super fine paper after the Surfacer has cured. If you need a shinier surface (say, for Alclad over top), a light wet sand to even out the surface, followed by a buffing with a clean, lint free cloth will give a good shine. It's really pretty simple stuff to use, though as always, you'll want to expeiment on a paint hulk first, before attacking your latest build, just to get a better feel for how it works.

[MikeMaben]

MS 1000 is a very fine pigment filler and works best as a primer or minimal surface imperfections. MS 1200 is even finer. MS 500 is a larger pigment and works better for filling larger voids. They will shrink. It is acrylic. Custom car painters used to do a thing called cobwebbing by shooting unthinned acrylic at high pressure (sounds like the spiderwebbing mentioned above). I don't think it's lacquer based as it doesn't affect the plastic surface beneath it. You can remove it (even after it's dry) with 91% alcohol which is what I use to thin it.

Mike

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...cheaper and non-toxic. Works fer me.

Edited September 27, 2005 by MikeMaben

[adgemage1966]

MoFo is completelycorrect, except that the filler is also Al2O3 (Alumina) combined with acrylic particles, which is why it sands into a fine powder.

Thin with Gunze Thinner (Lacquer)

Have fun

Adrian