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Painting and fading the TPS scheme on an F-14


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Guys-

I've gotten a few emails asking me how I paint my TPS schemes on my F-14's, so I thought I'd share.

My method for painting the TPS scheme on the F-14 is simple, but yet, a little time consuming depending how faded you want your bird to be. The method I use is generally called a reversed shading effect, and it looks very realistic, well, to me anyway. Weathering F-14's in this manner is something you have to gain a feel for, so you may want to practice on an old model before trying to tackle the technique on a Hasegawa F-14. Keep youre references handy!

The "fading" should be sprayed at 15-17 PSI and set your airbrush to spray at almost a pencil line.

I use an AZTEC 470 with the purple general purpose nozzle to do this, and it tuns out just fine.

Also, don't be afraid of overspraying the panl lines. You'll need to use a sort of side-to-side motion with your airbrush, making sure that the "fading" has sort of a tight pattern in the centers of the panels. However, you'll need to try and get the fading as close to the panel lines as possible. Again, don't worry of you overspray the lines, because the finish doesn't have to be consitant.

The first thing I do is paint the 3 tone TPS (which is 35237, 36320, and 36375) in it's full strength. No lightening of the paint is required.

For the top side, to include the wings and horizontal stabs or anything

painted 35237: I take Dk ghost grey, and spray it in the centers of all the panels on the top side of the aircraft and also I spot prime the fasteners on the engine doors just above the ventral fin, and the smaller doors forward of the engine doors, both on the outside and inside of the engine nacels.

For the fwd fuselage or anything painted 36320: Paint the insides of the panles Lt Ghost grey. I wouldn't go overboard on the fwd fuselage because the panels toward the front of the jet don't really fade that much, they just get dirty.

For the underside of the a/c or anything painted 36375: Paint the insides of the panels flat white....yes, white! The low PSI setting will allow you to fade the panels without going overboard and turning the panels completely white. I usually go back over the white with the lt ghost grey to tone down the white to prevent over fading it.

Next, spray your gloss coat, on as you normally would and let it dry. Here's a note if you're using Future as a gloss coat. If the Future does not dry smooth, the next step using the gell pen will NOT work properly.

The next step is the most time consuming, and care should be exercised. I apply my decals as normal, let them dry and then start the weathering!

In this step, take a gell pen or a "Skilcraft Free Ink Roller Ball pen 0.5", (which is what I use and recommend) and run it through the panels. The Skilcraft Ink roller ball pen is like a gell pen, but releases less ink for better control. I mainly do the top side, wings, and underside. You'll need to do only 1-3 panels at a time to prevent the ink gell from drying right away, and then I wipe the ink in the direction of air flow using a damp paper towel. This will aslo help darken up any over fading that has occured. You may have to do the same panel more than once to get the right effect, and be sure to change the paper towel out once you notice the one you're using starts to get a little too dirty. Basically, when the paper towel you're using turns black, it's time to change it.

I then go back with lt ghost grey using a "spot priming" technique, I hit some of the panels on the underside of the jet mainly on the daily doors (the ones just before the large door which has the "NAVY" logo) and I hit some of the smaller panels on the fwd fuselage. If you've over streaked the top side too much, go back with the Dk Ghost grey and hit some of the panels again. Use your best judgement, and keep your references handy.

A word of caution: Be very careful spraying around the decals!

Of course seal the deal with your flat coat as usual.

Lastly, this technique is not set in stone, but it works for me, and have gotten many compliments on models when I use it. So I hope this can at least give you an idea on something new to try.

Brian Marbrey

Edited by VF-103guy
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Would this technique work for an A-6A? My uncle was a project pilot on the A-6A (at TPS- 1963-65) and I'm going to be building up an A-6 pretty soon. (Doing up the a/c he flown during his career)

Basically, this and similar techniques can be used on every (Navy) aircraft, since all carrierbased aircraft are operated under the same conditions, being exposed to sun, salt etc.. The only thing that can vary are the colours you need for the different types of arcraft, but pre- and postshading, using oils, pastell chalks, wetsandingpaper, washes etc. are good weathering techniques in general.

István

Edited by I.Illes
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Basically, this and similar techniques can be used on every (Navy) aircraft, since all carrierbased aircraft are operated under the same conditions, being exposed to sun, salt etc.. The only thing that can vary are the colours you need for the different types of arcraft, but pre- and postshading, using oils, pastell chalks, wetsandingpaper, washes etc. are good weathering techniques in general.

István

That's what I thought. :unsure: Just wanted to make sure. Got it bppkmarked :wacko:

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Would this technique work for an A-6A? My uncle was a project pilot on the A-6A (at TPS- 1963-65) and I'm going to be building up an A-6 pretty soon. (Doing up the a/c he flown during his career)

Oh absolutely. The technique was designed for all current USN types and it even works with the gull grey over white schemes from the 60's - the 80's. However, the technique is more simplified with the grey and white jets, because the only color you're using to fade the grey is white.

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Oh absolutely. The technique was designed for all current USN types and it even works with the gull grey over white schemes from the 60's - the 80's. However, the technique is more simplified with the grey and white jets, because the only color you're using to fade the grey is white.

Thanks for this bit of info. All the planes my uncle had flown were Gull grey over white (A3Ds,RA-5C, A-6A @ TPS) but, then come to think of it, the SNJ-5 was yellow, He flew F2H3/4 Banshees that were still Dark Sea Blue... as VF-11 was transitioning to grey & white (1958)

:thumbsup:

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Oh, I forgot to add something concerning the gull grey over white paint technique. After you've faded the top side, it is important to go back over the fading with the gull grey. Since the gull grey over white paint schemes were semi-gloss, they really didn't fade much.

You'll definitely want to go back over the top side and subtle out the fading for sure when doing these birds.

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Cool Brian, Thanks!

As the proud owner of several of Brian's builds, I can attest to his technique. It really creates a realistic and dramamtic look, and brings out the true character of a Navy bird.

Awesome Brian, thanks! Craig

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question, brian

aren't we going for the "spotty" look here on USN aircraft? I always had the idea that shading the center of the panels was something for USAF a/c, and the Kaan Gok-spotting-method-with-as-many-shades-of-gray-and-even-brown method was for USN a/c...

In my opinion, I wouldn't see where the technique would even be used on USAF jets. I've always had the impression that USAF birds were highly maintained and paint schemes always looked "fresh". Most AF birds I've seen have looked very clean, were kept in hardened bunkers or hangars, and if I were going to build a model of one, especially a modern fighter, all I would do is add a wash to the panels and call it quits. But for a Vietnam era USAF jet, I would definitely use the technique, and I have.

Having seen tomcats and hornets up close and personal for the last 5 years has convinced me the method I use is convincing. Tomcat lo vis paint schemes in modern times have more of a faded appearance than spotty. And true, you will see some spot priming, but it's mainly on the daily doors and engine doors, and a few other access panels on the turtle back, not all over the enire a/c. Of course that, and the fact they get dirty from air crew walking on them, dirt and grime geting trapped in panels, etc. All of that has the effect on the finish. Also, like I said in the first post, keep your references handy and use them as a guide.

I've also had crews who've worked on the planes say the finish is very life like. And granted a very small few of them are model builders, but the ones who are were amazed.

As for the more spotty look, only during extremely high combat ops would the a/c ever get that way, and yes, the Kaan Gok method would be appropriate for that type of finish. For example, there was an instance during OEF when the Connie had a shortage of fresh water while under way, and the a/c in the air wing were looking really rough. In that situation, Kann's method would be more than appropriate.

Like I said in the first post, the technique isn't set in stone, and that's not to say one technique is better than the other. Kaan's models are superb, and the method he uses works for him and if it works for you, use it!

Bottom line, it's going to come down to the individual modeler and what technique you're comfortable using. I'm just trying to offer something new for people to try.

Edited by VF-103guy
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You want a picture, I'll give you a picture.

I must admit, this is NOT the best example to show the technique, but it's close. I built this tomcat a year ago, but if you look closely at the top fuselage and thw wings, you can kinda see some of the fading.

Just 2 more weeks until Christmas...

Edited by VF-103guy
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Thanks for the pic Brian. Now I have a question for you, after Christmas, if you were a good boy and Santa brings you that camera, will you be doing a "step by step" photoshoot to go along with your article?(I hope, I hope, I hope).

Thanks again sir!

Jack aka BUGFAN

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Thanks for the pic Brian. Now I have a question for you, after Christmas, if you were a good boy and Santa brings you that camera, will you be doing a "step by step" photoshoot to go along with your article?(I hope, I hope, I hope).

Thanks again sir!

Jack aka BUGFAN

Already one step ahead of you. I just started another F-14 and I'll have it ready for paint hopefully by mid April. I'm doing a line bird from VF-2, so this one will have to be very weathered.

Edited by VF-103guy
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  • 3 months later...

Wow, had to go back a few pages to find this article.

My sister has agreed to let me use her digtial camera this weekend to take a few pics so I can finally post them.

Sorry it took so long for me to get around to replying to this one..

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