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1/48th Harrier T-10


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Shaun,

That's a real bummer. Here's a wild thought. Open up the canopies. Now I see what you are talking about (being offline with the instruments) , but here's what I would do (it ain't gonna be perfect but might be worth consideration). On the rear coaming, slice the distance in half. Meaning grind, cut or basically get rid of the front part of the coaming (the part that's up against the front seat). In this space insert the second windsheild (I think, now I'm not positive about the Mk.7, that the trainer used to have that second windshield, so that if the front guy ejected the back guy wouldn't be awash in the "instant jet steram" created). Granted the remainder of the coaming may look kinda strange missing some, but it would answer the amount of distance you are dealing with now. If the coaming drives you nuts, then you could fasion some more with thin sheet styrene.

This might help, I know its not correct, but it might make you feel better about the effort you put forth to this point:

tav-8a-2.jpg

I know this is how it is supposed to look, BTW if you want my opinion, after seeing this photo you really aren't off that much..

har10.jpg

I feel for you brother!!

Jarrod Cunningham

Austin, Texas

Edited by jcunny
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Stay with it Shaun. I'd let it all dry then take a nice new scalpel and carefully remove the canopy and display them open. I think the cockpit area would a real eye catcher with the canopies opened up.

Either way good luck.

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You'll be able to do something with it!!! Have faith in the modelling gods....:banana: (If worst comes to worst, just display the canopy open :D

It's all good

ANthony

Thanks for the sympathy guys.

Opening the Canopy does not help the problem as the canopy open sideways and the middle section still has to fit over the combing.

I might attempt to grind the rear cockpit bulkhead away and move the seat back to give more room to bring the dash board back a bit.

There's one good thing about this model, it fits back inside the Hasegawa GR7 box so if it gets put to one side, it won't be hanging around to remind me of the problem ;)

Shaun

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Stay with it Shaun. I'd let it all dry then take a nice new scalpel and carefully remove the canopy and display them open. I think the cockpit area would a real eye catcher with the canopies opened up.

Either way good luck.

The Canopy is not glued, so I still have access to the cockpit for a bit of surgery.

Shaun.

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Don't know how to fix this problem yet, but it's real soul distroying :blink:

Well, after looking through several photos of the original, I don´t find the rear instrument cover too far off, but the canopy framing seems to be too far to the rear.

http://www.airliners.net/open.file/915906/L/

maybe you can vac-form a new canopy?

Edited by Markus_H_P
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With it being a monday and the start of the working week, I took time during work today to have a think about the cockpit problem.

I have thought of a plan of attack which I'm going to try later, fingers crossed :blink:

Shaun.

preop.jpg

Here's the model Pre OP with the seats removed.

On with the gloves and mask :D

Edited by ShaunBD
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I'm also working on a T-10 (you're a wicked person for starting this thread. When I saw the conversion Ijust had to buy one. Boy did I get in trouble from the the "better half"!!)

Have lookid at the cockpit prob and feel that the kit as supplied is way off. The canopy looks good re the frames, but the centre instrument hood is too far forward. I'm thinking I may use 2 kit tubs instead of the resin tub, and build a new inner assembly, lining the hood up with the canopy frames.

Will take some photo's as progress occurs....(that's ontop of my RF-4EJ for the well and truly finished G-B!)

M

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Nurse scaple <_<

undertheknife.jpg

Ok, out with the dremel tool and start grinding away.

First I started to remove the lower grey piece of the rear cockpit bulk head, don't know why it had the raised detail on it anyway?, the real seat appears to lie flush will the bulk head.

This went fine, next problem was the rear of the tub at the base of the seat, grinded the rear wall till it broke though!!

Not much to worry about as the ejection seat will cover the hole, phew!

Now the the intrument panel, cut back the cockpit sides walls to allow it to move rearwards, I've lost the front on the side panels underneath the panel now, but that's life.

I cut of about 2mm off the front of the rear intrument panel and angled it to match the canopy frame.

This has allowed me to now move the front seat rearward but not before I had to grind away the rear foot well and rudder pedels.

I will cover this void with plastic card, you can't see much behind the seat anyway.

The cockpit now has a correct look at last, after this extra work.

I think the operation was a suscess and the model is now in recovery. :cheers:

Shaun.

P.s Matt how you getting on with yours, sounds like you have found the same problems as me?

Edited by ShaunBD
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This is the cockpit side profile after the rework. The removed slice of panel can be seen in the foreground.

I've yet to trim the canopy to the final snug fit

corectedcockpit.jpg

Shaun. <_<

Edited by ShaunBD
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Great work to modify the cockpit :worship:

I really like the look of all twin seat Harriers, theres something oddly appealing about an aircraft which looks so awkward and ugly :worship: especially the T10.

Having an almost completed Harrier GR7 (hasegawa kit made 'out of the box') I'm tempted to have a go at the T.10 next, maybe in the earlier two tone green scheme rather than the grey, just for a bit of variety...money constraints mean I should probably have a bash at the 2x Hawks or Tornado I have in the stash first though.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Just a little update,

The model is still progressing slowly, I've just been taking a break from it.

I been building a 1/48th Buccaneer for a friend, so this has taken a back seat the last few weeks.

Tonight I cut the canopy to the final fit, and tomorrow night I plan to glue the intrument panels in place.

Both models should be ready for painting by end of the week.

I'll post some photo's after I've got some paint on it.

I'm still not sure on the final markings yet?, the Royal Navy Harrier GR9 squadrons reform shortly, so I'm guessing they will have a T-10 allocated for check rides, so that's maybe another option?

Shaun.

Edited by ShaunBD
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  • 1 month later...

No more progress on the model yet,been busy on other projects.

In the mean time the Royal Navy is now working up on the Harrier GR7A at RAF Cottesmore.

800 NAS has now taken on ex 3 Sqn Harrier T.10 ZH660 onto their ranks, here's is a link to a few photo's of the Royal Navy Harriers at Cottesmore.

http://www.ukar.co.uk/cgi-bin/ukarboard/ik...=ST;f=9;t=13630

What markings do I do now? :rolleyes:

Shaun.

Edited by ShaunBD
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  • 1 month later...
What markings do I do now? :worship:

Shaun.

well, you have choices:

All single green with B+W photo marks (Development aircraft)

two Tone green, nos 1,3,4 or 20 Sqn

two tone grey nos 1,3,4, 20 and 800 Sqns

So you'll need to build 10 of them!

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  • 1 year later...
  • 5 months later...
Hey Shaun,

Whatever happened to this build? Did you get it done?

The project is not dead, just been taking a break.

Here is the current state of the build.

The bottom colours have been applyed and I've still got to paint the main top colours.

This week I made some spare canopy parts, so i can now cut the canopy sections out and not worry if it goes a bit wrong.

I've still got to work out how to do the canopy MDC?, but I have a plan!

harrierfrontview.jpg

Harrierpic2.jpg

Harrierpic1.jpg

I'm sure I'll finished it somtime this decade!

Shaun.

Edited by ShaunBD
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