Jump to content

Holy frijoles!!!!!!!!!!!


Recommended Posts

Courtesy of the wife's $50 gift card at the local HT-USA, I picked up the Polar Lights 1/350 USS ENTERPRISE and . . . um . . . er . . . good grief!!!!!

What a monster!!! And I mean that in a good way! I've heard good things about the kit and am indeed impressed! Checked out a few reviews/build-ups at Starship Modeler and really can't wait to dive into this thing (Although I'm going to have to clear some extra space on the workbench, just to accomodate the size).

Can't decide whether to build as-is or light it up.

Any hints, tips, suggestions on this beast?

One problem (A good one!) is where to display it. When I suggested the fireplace mantle, the wife gave that idea a thumbs-down!

Link to post
Share on other sites

You'll never get it back in the box without taking photos of each layer. There are literally threads dedicated on trying to get it back in the box. When you decide to look at it, take careful note of how it was packed, and pack it back in the exact same way.

I personally am waiting for some aftermarket lighting dedicated for that kit. (I usually don't light windows, just engines and other "big" lights)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm with you David. As soon as I opened the box I said to myself I had better keep track of how this thing comes out because I'll bet it won't go back in any other way. The PL 1/350th 1701 kit is the same way and in a bigger box. :D

As far as the lighting thing goes, for something this size it is just begging to be lit. Kills me something hasn't come out as far as a lighting kit though, the 1/1000 stuff seemed to show up quick enough.

Kiowafixer/Ex-Tomcatfixer

Link to post
Share on other sites
Looking around online at built-up ones, I may just go all-out and light all the windows. (In fact, it's the ONLY way I've seen it done). Biggest issue is masking all those windows though.

You could just use a pin vise to drill holes...then when finished painting/weathering, fill the holes with testors window maker

Link to post
Share on other sites

The 1/350 Ent-A is BIG. Every window group has its own clear piece. (many people have bought 100+ LED's to light them). They are far larger than the typical opening used for the clear window stuff. Also, I actually think they need to be done with plastic, as they are large enough to need the thickness of the plastic parts.

In my experience you cannot leave openings exposed until the end--paint WILL get inside and on the wires, bulbs, etc. Also, you WILL have light leaks--I have literally sat with a 99% completed model, pouring old, thick black paint in a small hole and moving the ship around hoping it'll flow JUST right to block the light-leak, but not get on any clear part or bulb.

Basically--you have to have it completely sealed, lighted, and painted, prior to final assembly. Which is why I usually skip lighting windows.

I do believe the most common way is to simply get a very small paper punch or similar tool, and make hundreds and hundreds of tiny masks from tape. Then apply with a toothpick-tip. The Ent-A is large enough (and has few enough windows) that I may actually go that route, as they'd be several mm across.

Edited by David Hingtgen
Link to post
Share on other sites

Typing out stuff often leads me to re-think things. Looking at more builds etc, I think it's possible to wait until much later to install the majority of the windows---if you leave off the deflector dish and its housing until the end, you can get to almost all the windows in the engineering hull and "neck". Would still have to install and mask the saucer windows early on, but that'd save a lot of work. (Though it could make it hard to install lights/wiring, since the hull would already be mostly closed up then) Need to think more...

Link to post
Share on other sites
You'll never get it back in the box without taking photos of each layer. There are literally threads dedicated on trying to get it back in the box. When you decide to look at it, take careful note of how it was packed, and pack it back in the exact same way.

Ummm . . . too late!

As I've been following this thread and pondering the to-light-or-not-to-light question, some things are coming to mind . . .

- First off, I have little/no experience in such things such as miniature electrical systems. Sure, I can replace outlets and do simple wiring around the house, and have fiddled with auto electronics over the years, but building a custom lighting system for a model is something I haven't tackled yet.

- A made-to-order arrangement would be nice, although these sort of things seem like they cost a fair amount of moola, something I have to keep in mind.

- To go the whole-hog route, there would be more than one electrical system . . . windows (Which could have a constant level of light); strobing position lights; deflector dish, warp nacelle panels, and probably something I haven't thought of yet.

- I see these luminous plastic sheets that appear to be very useful. Could these be cut to shape and applied directly to the back of the window pieces (Which cover several windows with each piece)? Also, could one side be painted to keep light from spilling out? I saw one build-up that had light bulbs arranged around the inner portion of the saucer-section pointed outwards at the window pieces, one option.

- Either setting resistance appropriately or having the lights on a rheostat would appear to be highly desirable.

- I anticipate having the model permanently attached to either the base provided in the kit (nice touch!) or a custom-built one, which greatly facilitates adding lights. However, what happens if for some reason I want to take the model off the base? Surely a wire plug between the model and base would help.

- If I do go with lights, I would like to make the wiring as unabtrusive as possible so there would need to be some accomodation for routing it into the model without wire(s) hanging off. I prefer the look of the ship in-flight (For lack of a better term) and wouldn't want to go the in spacedock with an imbilical look.

- Power supply . . . DC battery or AC w/plug? Yet another consideration!

Lots to think about.

Link to post
Share on other sites

For me:

I have yet to do one with blinking lights, as to do it right you need to have multiple sequences (they don't all flash the same, and having every light that blinks, blink together really doesn't look right) So you need to have actual circuit boards to do that. There's a few out there, even specific for the Ent-A sequence, but it does add $$ and time to wire it up. I just go for "steady" nav/formation lights. (Unless a new cheap circuit comes out---the ones currently out there were designed for the Ertl kit but sold out rapidly once the new 1/350 came out--hopefully they're making more/new ones)

Power---I see AC adapters more than batteries, but either works. 9V is the most common for lighting ships, followed by 12V. (This is dictated by the popularity of various lighting sources)

I always go for the "ac adapter plug" for connection, with the male end coming from the stand and the female plug in the ship---thus you can remove the ship and have only a small round hole in the belly.

"Ship with umbilical" does seem to be the most popular--that or simply a traditional big black tube supporting it from beneath (how I do it). For the Ent-A I think at least a few people have actually mounted it from the SIDE with authentic airlock/umbilicals---but you need to basically build an internal skeleton for the model to enable it to "hang in midair" supported only by a tube coming from the side.

Have a look here: http://www.starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/php...ewforum.php?f=6 The Star Trek section of their forum, and most of the discussion is people talking about how they're lighting up that kit. Lots of ideas/hints.

Also, one of the best build-ups of an Ent-A: (Ertl kit, but lighting is lighting) http://www.culttvman.com/dmenterprise.html

Edited by David Hingtgen
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been waiting for that----I've bought some of his parts before. Though I never use all the parts (he makes it possible to light up EVERYTHING--though since the PL Ent-A is designed to be lighted, I figure there'll be far fewer "clear resin replacement parts" than his other sets)

Though all I'd really need are some clear red impulse engines, pre-colored warp grills, and "blue" stuff like the deflector and impulse crystal. I like the look of colored resin better than "clear parts with clear paint." Looks better on, though worse off. I go totally for the "lit" appearance, even though they spend 99% of their time off. I'm REALLY impressed by the people who layer things just right to actually get coppery deflectors and warp grills that glow blue when lit up.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...