swimmer25k Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 (edited) Hi swimmer,the tool I used is called "beading tool", I think, but I´m not sure if it´s the correct English term. How about "Korneisen" instead? They look like this, but instead of a point there´s a small circle at the end of each, that produces the rivets: Would a Micro Mark pounce wheel work? The wheel would save a bunch of time over the beading tool (from what it looks like.) I tried out that web-stie and I can't find information on how to order the tools that you have. My German is a little rusty :blink: so I wasn't able to find out what I needed. If you find rivet pattern drawings make sure you post them here for the rest of your Flanker bretheren! thanks. chris Edited May 30, 2006 by swimmer25k Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Thanks for you help. Would thin strip of styrene fit between the HUD and the canopy? It would be nice to have a little definition under the canopy.Thanks, Chris Hi guys, I hope you don't mind me butting in again. I thought of trying to add some definition to this area but as you can see...... ....space is pretty limited. :D I've got to have a serious think about what to do. I suspect that I'll end up adding the compass inside the edge of the windshield and leaving it at that. :( HTH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
upupandaway Posted May 31, 2006 Author Share Posted May 31, 2006 (edited) Hi gee, just feel free to do so anytime you want, but if I might jump off a bridge one day, the cops are definitely gonna be knockin´ on your door - man that beats me. That cockpit is just... Hope I can keep up with you a little bit... :lol: P.S.: This picture remindes me, that I also have to add the white writing to those red levers in the cockpit :lol: But take a look at this photo (you may already have): as it seems, you can solve the problem by adding a thin strip of styrene or some other material and attach the zacto-compass to it?!... I think nobody is gonna mind it if the canopy frame isn´t thick enough in that place. Might be a little fiddly, but after the canopy frame doesn´t fit on my model either, I`m probably gonna try it this way, too. EDIT: Another idea - why not try with that aluminium (?) foil that´s wrapped around the neck of wine bottles - it´s a llittle thicker and can be bent easily...? Edited May 31, 2006 by upupandaway Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PapaSmurf630 Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Another idea - why not try with that aluminium (?) foil that´s wrapped around the neck of wine bottles - it´s a llittle thicker and can be bent easily...? Guys, I've been looking for this aluminium, but all the wine bottles I've seen recently have a plastic neck around the top with a small engraved aluminium disk covering the top of the cork. Are there any specific bottles that have these? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Hi gee,But take a look at this photo (you may already have): as it seems, you can solve the problem by adding a thin strip of styrene or some other material and attach the zacto-compass to it?!... I think nobody is gonna mind it if the canopy frame isn´t thick enough in that place. Might be a little fiddly, but after the canopy frame doesn´t fit on my model either, I`m probably gonna try it this way, too. EDIT: Another idea - why not try with that aluminium (?) foil that´s wrapped around the neck of wine bottles - it´s a llittle thicker and can be bent easily...? Hi upupandaway, I think your suggestion is the only thing I could do. I'll see what I can come up with next time I get to do some modelling As for the wine bottle foil, it's becoming increasingly difficult to find here in the U.K. I have most everyone I know keeping their eyes peeled for the stuff! My workmates think I'm bonkers but they keep bringing me pieces occasionally, bless 'em. Some of the more expensive wines still use metal closures but unless you're actually drinking the goods it makes the foil expensive... Here's another suggestion that I tripped over the other day.........how about using the metal around "tea lights". You know, those little candles that you put in glass thingummies. I was using one to heat the water for my decals and when it was finished I cut the aluminium off and discovered that it is really soft and easy to use but holds its' shape even better than foil. I think I'll try this stuff for my canopy rim. (Just remember to remove any residual wax before use!). HTH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PapaSmurf630 Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 I'm already using that stuff :D Works like a charm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wasserfall Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Me too <_< Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Do you guys mean the 'ledge' under the canopy arch ??? I used a thin strip of plastic card on mine - and the HUD fitted OK under it (actually the HUD does not go under the canopy arch - it is to the rear of it). OK I give up - I just tried to upload a photo - but I am told I cannot upload a file with that extension (.jpg) ???? What has changed - or what am I doing wrong ?? Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Do you guys mean the 'ledge' under the canopy arch ???I used a thin strip of plastic card on mine - and the HUD fitted OK under it (actually the HUD does not go under the canopy arch - it is to the rear of it). OK I give up - I just tried to upload a photo - but I am told I cannot upload a file with that extension (.jpg) ???? What has changed - or what am I doing wrong ?? Ken Hi Ken, yeah...I think it is the canopy arch we're talking about. I'll have to try to fit something in but the gap between the Zactomodels windshield and the Aires HUD is tight on my build :P If you want to post a pic it has to be hosted off-site. Direct up-loading of images has been stopped to try and avoid further virus problems. :wacko: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
upupandaway Posted May 31, 2006 Author Share Posted May 31, 2006 (edited) If you want to post a pic it has to be hosted off-site. Direct up-loading of images has been stopped to try and avoid further virus problems. Hi Flankerman, you might want to read post no. 110 by fulcrum - work nicely like that... Edited May 31, 2006 by upupandaway Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fulcrum Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Do you guys mean the 'ledge' under the canopy arch ???I used a thin strip of plastic card on mine - and the HUD fitted OK under it (actually the HUD does not go under the canopy arch - it is to the rear of it). OK I give up - I just tried to upload a photo - but I am told I cannot upload a file with that extension (.jpg) ???? What has changed - or what am I doing wrong ?? Ken Ken uploading images straight from your computer is allowed no more debt to recent Virus strike. I recommend u to use Photobucket upload your images there and post the IMG addresses here in the Forum. Greetings from Peru. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Very impressive build so far! Sorry to hear that there are problems with the HUD fit. There doesn't seem to be a problem with the kit parts or the Black-Box ones either (other than some width issues with the coaming). The Aires part (which I didn't have when I made the masters...) seems much taller than the kit or BB coaming, almost 1/8" taller. I recently picked up the Aires/Quickboost IP and coaming but it doesn't include the HUD parts so I can't make a full assessment of the situation. I am planning to use the Aires IP and coaming with the BB tub that I've already fit. When I fit the Aires IP to the BB tub the coaming sits too high leaving a big gap between the top of the clear panel and the instruments molded on the coaming. In order to get the coaming to fit I ended up removing a lot of additional material from the bottom of the coaming beyond where the pour block/sprue meets the part. In fact I removed everything below the bottom edge of the MFDS, about 1/10". This dropped the HUD mounting area as well as the camera box which was too high and everything fits now. Since I don't have the full Aires pit I can't test fit to see if dropping the HUD down will still allow the rest of the Aires pit to fit properly... As I mentioned above, the Quickboost set didn't include the HUD parts, so I test fit the BB HUD parts on the lowered Aires coaming and it appears to fit right... I'll probably scratch build my HUD in the end... The thin flashing around the front frame was too small for me to try to mold. I plan to add a strip of aluminum foil tape leaving a slight overhang. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swimmer25k Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 Fellow Flanker fans, I've been rubber-necking your in progress pics for the last couple of weeks and got started on mine just yesterday. My first step was cutting out my Zactocanopy. (I'm glad I have two!) I posted over on Hyperscale the other day a question asking for some Gunze matches (and mixes) for the cockpit, wheel hub green, as well as the overall aircraft colors. I haven't gotten any replies. Do any of you have the correct mixes or color numbers from Gunze? Also, are there any line drawings out there to help me add some rivet patterns? All of your builds have been very inspirational and I look forward to moving on with my own. When I make some progress I'll start my own thread and post some pictures. Thanks, Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wasserfall Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 All of your builds have been very inspirational and I look forward to moving on with my own. When I make some progress I'll start my own thread and post some pictures. Thanks, Chris Welcome to the club We'll be watching Quote Link to post Share on other sites
upupandaway Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 Hi there, while I was killing some time tonight, I found something nice on ElectronicAviation.com. :) Looks familiar? The music is especially funny. http://www.electronicaviation.com/download...30_assembly.wmv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
upupandaway Posted June 13, 2006 Author Share Posted June 13, 2006 Hello there! After a short break I´m back with some bits. During the last two weeks I´ve exclusively worked on the rivets and panel lines and I´ve come to finish riveting and scribing on the right wing and parts of the fuselage. It´s going slow and is a little fiddly sometimes but I´m statring to like it more and more as it´s slowly working out. Right now, I´m working on the nose but I have a little problem with that. The putty i used cracks easily and it´s not suitable for scribing rivets in it, I think. There are two little cracks on a panel line, that I had to re-scribe. Does anybody know a way to fix that easily with a more stable material? I don´t know if superglue would work... But here´s the first picture of the right wing: The right side of the fuselage - I used many pictures from the Flanker-DVD to make quite a few changes and additions in this area. Unfortunately, there were no detailed pictures of the upper side of the wing on it. The space between many rivets was changed, as well as the size and some rivets and panel lines were added. Maybe you can see it on this picture... Also here in the cannon section I had to make some changes and additions. For example the original panel lines near the airbrake were totally wrong and had to be changed.The part above the cannon is a PE-part out of the Eduard Su-27 Ext.-Set. :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
upupandaway Posted June 15, 2006 Author Share Posted June 15, 2006 Ok, I´ve ordered myself some new tool for doing panel lines more accurately because the results I´m getting with that blunt crappy thing from my local DIY-shop aren´t too good. :lol: :blink: :blink: I´ve corrected some flaws on the panel lines here on the radome using Gunze´s Mr. Surfacer (which worked quite well) and additionally on some rivets there. Anyway, in my eyes it doesn´t look too fancy like this. I´m gonna leave it like that until the new tools arrive and then I´ll decide if I´m gonna do another correction on them bit it´ll be tough I guess. What do you guys think? No. 1: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
upupandaway Posted June 15, 2006 Author Share Posted June 15, 2006 No. 2 & 3: (On no. 3 it´s still missing some old original panel lines behind the radome) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
upupandaway Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 Well here... Long time no see. It´s been some time since I last posted any progress, but there is the summer, the soccer world cup and as usual also some other less convenient things... <_< The Susy has got all her back done now except for two small spots on the wing and on rear end. All is covered with a layer of Tamiya White to lighten up the following layers of the camouflage. Here´s a photo from above that shows the major adaptions I made to the fuselage: #1 - Along the blue lines here, I added rivets on the canopy, around the radome (sorry Chris ) and removed and remade them around the IRST. Was a lot of work to get it right with the putty and took me more than two weeks. #2 - On port I added two different vents and some other small detail and changed, like on starboard as well, the rivet size and distance around those panels (cannon). In the center I added two rivet lines which I had found on the Flanker-DVD. #3 - Here, around the front end of the airbrake, I first had to fill some gaps, sand them off and rescribe the panel lines, but also I had to do a major change on the sides (those slightly odd shapes to the sides of the airbrake), because all that Trumpeter achieved here was a straight line where there´s some quite complex combination of rivet and panel lines. This took me a lot of time. #4 - Also a big one, but went faster: In the marked sections to the left and to the right and also in the center panel or rivet lines had to be removed or changed. On the panels over the engines I changed the rivet size, making them bigger and I removed those two shapes that shall represent vents. I´ll make some own by myself later and replace them. #5 - I added some different rivets here in this area on both sides where they were missing. If anybody wants more detailed pics of the particular adaptions, I´d be glad to post them for you, but the documentation of every single detail would be a plain overdose I believe. Currently I´m working on the bottom side which remains quite some work, as there, as well, are many flaws to correct. Interestingly Trumpeter got the upper side of the wings perfectly right while the bottom side is really TOTALLY wrong. During the last week the idea came up to me that I could, like Zactoman on the intakes, add all the tiny rivet lines to the fuselage. The distance between the rivets is 0.7mm which can easily be continued with the Rosie the Riveter tool. Think I´m gonna do this after some more research in my pictures and after all other reapirs are done. Now I only got to learn some more about pre-shading and everything will be fine... :wacko: Have a nice time all of you! More will follow soon... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
upupandaway Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 One last thing for now - some parts under the nose out of the Eduard Exterior-Set: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 (edited) Nice to see some Flanker progress! It's been slow around here lately! #1 - Along the blue lines here, I added rivets on the canopy, around the radome (sorry Chris ) and removed and remade them around the IRST.The exterior of the canopy framing does need detail added as there was no way for me to properly add this detail to the exterior of the vacuumformed part,,, but the nose??? This was dicussed on page 37 of the big thread.Have you tried using compass points and different sizes of straight pins to scribe with? I find them easier to use than any of the comercially available scribers I've tried. Keep up the good work! Chris Edited July 13, 2006 by Zactoman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wasserfall Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Wow, very nice work you did there, seems a lot of work to do all that rescribing (thow one thing is that i really don't want to know what Trumpeter meshed up again ) She sure needs a lot of work but it all will pay off in the end (my build is going very slow, holidays are coming) Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Quite amazing the amount of work you've put into this to get it just right. I'll look forward to seeing where you take this next. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frank Steffens Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Great work....I love seeing masterpieces take shape! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
upupandaway Posted July 14, 2006 Author Share Posted July 14, 2006 but the nose??? [...] Have you tried using compass points and different sizes of straight pins to scribe with? I find them easier to use than any of the comercially available scribers I've tried. Hi Chris. About the first: No offence - I mostly redid some rivets that were lost during filling and sanding and I simply didn´t remember which ones had been there before. Nevertheless I also redid all rivets in the place where they were with my beading tool just to make it look more like "out of one piece". The only ones I in fact added were some in this area: Second: No I´m only using two scribing tools of which one looks a bit like a dentists tool and the other one from the DIY-shop is a bit crappy. I still have very little experience with scribing and the tools, so I don´t really know what´s best to use - but no, I haven´t tried any of which you mentioned. The DIY-shop tool is a bit like a straight pin and it does the lines quite nicely but on the other hand it is very inaccurate. Where do you get yours (compass points - what´s that? really part of a compass?)? (thow one thing is that i really don't want to know what Trumpeter meshed up again :D )She sure needs a lot of work YOU BET! :D Keep it up! Wanna see more of yours... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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